09 Legacy Sub replacement

The factory HK subwoofer on my 09 Legacy is blown. Its more of a nuisance than anything with the rattling and whatnot. I went to a car stereo place today to see if they could replace it. The guy said my best bet would be to go to Subaru. (The guy didn't seem to be much of a fan of the "open air" subwoofer") I went to Subaru but they want $225-240 (depending which one I need).

 

I did a little research online and found this: Kicker 10CVT654 [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Kicker-6-5Inch-Shallow-Mount-Subwoofer/dp/B0036MOQAE]Amazon.com: Kicker 6.5Inch Shallow Mount Subwoofer 4 Ohm: Electronics[/ame]

 

Will this fit? I'd hate to order it and take it somewhere to have it installed and have them tell me it doesn't fit.

 

Thanks!

I have the exact same question. Also found that 6.5 inch Kicker Sub at Crutchfield. Looks like a good option. My current factory sub is also blown and rattles on and off. Does anyone know if the factory Harmon Kardon Amp will power that 6.5 inch kicker?

Is the cutout a different size in '08+ LGTs? The cutout in my car is for an 8" speaker, which is what I put in there.

I'm pretty sure the hole is 6.5" I don't have a GT, its a Special Edition with the HK stereo, I don't know if that makes a difference.

 

I just want to replace the factory blown sub. I know putting a better sub in there probably won't produce better sound because of the factory amp. I just want to know if it is doable, or will I need to go to Subaru and pony up some big bucks.

Can you look at your factory sub from the trunk? You can probably find it's impedance noted somewhere on the frame or on the magnet. If you know it's 4Ω, 8Ω, or whatever it is, buy a matching aftermarket sub and it'll run on the factory amp without hurting anything.

 

The more efficient speaker you find, the more output you'll get. I did some very quick searching just now and found THIS. Reputable brand, higher efficiency than most others I saw, and not very expensive. It's also got low power handling which could be good, unless it's too low. I dunno what the factory amp does.

According to cars101.com the opening for the Harmon Kardon rear deck factory sub in the 09 Legacy SE Sedan is 170mm. It is 200mm for the Legacy wagon of the same year. That is why the Sedan owners can use a 6.5" while the wagon owners need the 8" sub to fill the opening.

 

The Kicker 6.5" has a low profile install. The mounting depth required for the sub is less than 3". There are 2 metal bars that run below the factory sub which requires installing a sub with a low mounting depth.

There are still deeper subs that will fit around the torsion bars; I've done it. Unfortunately it'd be trial and error to find a winner.

In the coming weeks, I'll have my OEM HK sub from my '09 available for sale, if that helps. It's installed & 100% functional, but I'm upgrading soon & will need to remove it anyway. PM if you're interested.

What are you replacing the factory HK sub with? Will you be doing it yourself or are you taking it to a stereo shop?

Took some photos of the underside and top side of the Harmon Cardon factory installed subwoofer in my 2009 Legacy SE Sedan. The impedence of the sub is clearly not listed.

 

Any idea how to find out the impedence of this woofer? Also, any idea how to get this top grill off?

 

I looked at it this morning. If you search the forums for "remove rear deck" you'll get all kinds of threads, and to do this, removing the rear seats is necessary... but I just don't understand why removing the rear deck is required just to remove the sub.

I'm thinking about this more, and I'm sure the factory sub is screwed into the metal deck panel. Removing the rear deck will allow you access to these screw heads... so it is necessary.

 

This is the most helpful thread I've found on removing the rear deck.

^ I used that thread as my guide, it was very helpfully. But yeah, you have to remove the deck to unscrew and remove the sub.

 

Although...mine didn't come with a factory sub and thus no factory grill. I dunno if it's possible to remove the grill and pull the sub through there.

 

Either way, if you install a more powerful sub, expect to get lots of rattles.

After reading some of the posts here and some of the others on this forum, it appears that the rear deck must be removed to get to the factory HK sub so that it can be removed. In removing the rear deck it also appears that the rear seat must be completely removed? Sounds like a lot of work.

 

The work doesn't concern me as much the fact that several people posted that they started getting rattles upon installation of the new sub. It also seems that the factory amp runs at 8 ohlms but most aftermarket subs run at 4 ohlms? Please correct me if I am wrong here. This means that I am noy going to be able to use the factory amp but will need to purchase a new amp to run the replacement sub. Please let me know if I am incorrect in any of my assumptions.

After reading some of the posts here and some of the others on this forum, it appears that the rear deck must be removed to get to the factory HK sub so that it can be removed. In removing the rear deck it also appears that the rear seat must be completely removed? Sounds like a lot of work.

The work doesn't concern me as much the fact that several people posted that they started getting rattles upon installation of the new sub. It also seems that the factory amp runs at 8 ohlms but most aftermarket subs run at 4 ohlms? Please correct me if I am wrong here. This means that I am noy going to be able to use the factory amp but will need to purchase a new amp to run the replacement sub. Please let me know if I am incorrect in any of my assumptions.

I posed the same question about removal of the rear deck, but yes, it seems to be necessary. If I remember to, I'll measure the resistance of the HK sub when I remove it, but I think you're mistaken; I believe I read that it was 2 ohms. You'll find a lot more aftermarket subs that run at 4 ohms, fewer that run at 2 ohms, and I don't recall seeing many that run at 8 ohms (except for some open-air options). I purchased a 10" DVC 2-ohm sub to run with an aftermarket amp. I'm just going to disconnect the connections to the factory sub & leave it open.

Removing the rear deck isn't too bad. Hauling the rear seat-backs back into the car is the hardest part since they're heavy and you can't get into a good lifting position. The first time I took the deck out i went pretty slow, but I could probably have it all apart in 30 minutes or less now after doing it twice.

I only want to do it once... that's why I'm waiting until my rearview camera & sub & enclosure get here before pulling it all apart... I intend to put the GPS antenna in the rear brake light housing as well, so I might as well do it all at once.

So it sounds like the info I was getting was only partially accurate. I think I am on the right track now though.

I bought the extended bumper to bumper warranty with a $100.00 deductible from Subaru(the Gold Plan) when I bought the car. I might opt to go to the dealer and see if they will replace the HK sub under warranty. Sounds like the easier route.

 

I was also interested in replacing all the speakers in the car as well. Sounds like I am going to have trouble with the HK amp and replacement speakers due to impedence. Looks like I will have to replace the factory amp before putting the new speakers in as well. I might just do the Sub and the speakers at the same time... a later time.

I have run into the same problem and I'm thinking about going with a mid range speaker instead of a sub. I have a 12" alpine that I'm going to throw in later so I'm thinking of going this route.

http://www.caraudiogiants.com/alpine-sps-610c.html?___store=default&___store=default

For anyone who didn't know, if you get a shallow mount dual 4 ohm voice coil sub and wire it in parallel, (+ to + and - to -), then you will essentially have a 2 ohm sub.

 

Mark, if you're putting a sub in the trunk, just leave the factory sub location open to allow air to move from the trunk to the cabin. Putting a midrange in that location is pointless, IMHO.

I have run into the same problem and I'm thinking about going with a mid range speaker instead of a sub. I have a 12" alpine that I'm going to throw in later so I'm thinking of going this route.

http://www.caraudiogiants.com/alpine-sps-610c.html?___store=default&___store=default

 

Don't put a midrange speaker there. That'll screw your imaging all up and sound terrible. If you're putting a sub in the trunk, take the factory sub out of the rear deck and leave the whole empty.

I did that. I didn't like the increase in road noise thought the rear deck, so I filled it with low-density foam. Bass & air passes, higher-f noise doesn't.

Don't put a midrange speaker there. That'll screw your imaging all up and sound terrible. If you're putting a sub in the trunk, take the factory sub out of the rear deck and leave the whole empty.

 

Thank you! I think I'm going to take your advice. Hadn't really thought about the sound balance.

I did that. I didn't like the increase in road noise thought the rear deck, so I filled it with low-density foam. Bass & air passes, higher-f noise doesn't.

 

Should noise-reduce your trunk n00b

 

But that's actually a good idea.

I know... I went the cheap route!