Toallhisdoom Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 So driving to work today my alternator belt broke? or fell off? Anyways, went and got new belts, installed, started car and heard clunking. Stopped car, looked and the crank pulley was tilted. Took it off and the inside of the pulley looks sheered. Can someone take pics of how it is supposed to look, both the inside of the pulley, and on the crank where it mounts? Not sure if the pulley keyway is stripped(i know it is but) or if the "key" on the crank timing belt gear is stripped. I am just trying to find out if i can get a new pulley or if i need to get a new crank timing gear(not sure what this is called) please help asap! at work so trying to figure out what to do. subaru said key is a separate piece from timing belt cog. So should i just get a light weight pulley now? I mean it is probably going to be cheaper then getting a OEM one right? Can someone recommend a good light weight pulley? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toallhisdoom Posted August 1, 2012 Author Share Posted August 1, 2012 http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1998/subaru/legacy/engine_mechanical/engine_harmonic_balancer.html subaru wants 199.95 for the stock harmonic balancer. BAHAHAH $3 for the key way tho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toallhisdoom Posted August 1, 2012 Author Share Posted August 1, 2012 what model and year lw pulley will fit? gotta order this today please let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toallhisdoom Posted August 1, 2012 Author Share Posted August 1, 2012 http://www.ebay.com/itm/300626128100?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_500wt_1180 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alter_ Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 I ordered that one toal Seems solid, I have not installed it yet since i Have a road trip coming up and didn't want any curve balls thrown at me 300miles from home. Will know next week by this time how things go though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toallhisdoom Posted August 1, 2012 Author Share Posted August 1, 2012 i ordered it, now just gotta go pick up the key from subaru. And return that stupid a/c belt. I was like "mine as well get both" then realized my ac does not even work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alter_ Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 do you remove your fans to get at the crank pulley? I'm looking to toss this new crank pulley on when I get back from vacation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted August 1, 2012 I Donated Share Posted August 1, 2012 Its a close call, but with the proper tools you can get it off without removing the fans. The fans aren't hard to take out though....and it does make it A LOT easier. The most important thing is to make sure you properly torque down the bolt when you put it back together. The issues you're having with the stripped bolt or whatever are likely because it wasn't properly torqued when it was last put on. -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alter_ Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 Cranking the bolt on is a 2 step process. Tighten bolt to 33ftlbs taking note of the angle, tighten bolt to 94ftlbs. Bolt should have tightened more than 45 degrees on the final tightening. If tightening angle is less than 45 degrees replace bolt. These are the instructions I have found. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 94 ft lbs is not correct, i do not think. it is not enough. 90 - 99 the spec is about 125 - 137 ft lbs. i use 140 ft lbs. the 94 ft lbs will lead to another boogered pulley. you need to make sure the crank sprocket is ok. both on the correct timing mark and not wallered out, which can lead to slipped timing. what car are we talking about? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 i don't know when they spec'ed this 2 step torque for the crank pulley bolt or for what cars. but i only heard about it this summer and i have never seen it spec'ed for 90 - 99 engines. any one else know? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alter_ Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 That is what comes from the perrin install instructions - johnegg Maybe this is only for the 2008 models and the 90-99 instructions would be to tighten to the 140ftlbs that you suggested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subikid90 Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 I have always used 125ftlbs+ and never heard of a 2 step process. I do not know what that would even gain you, there is only one bolt to torque. -Subikid90 1997 Legacy GT 5spd & EJ251 w/EJ25D heads ~10.5CR 1998 Legacy GT Limited waiting for EJ22T hybrid swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alter_ Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 awesome well this makes changing that crank pulley even easier! Thanks guys .. this newb is starting to learn! Where is that haynes manual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toallhisdoom Posted August 2, 2012 Author Share Posted August 2, 2012 whats the best way to tighten that bolt? when i tried to tighten it with the engine out, the timing belt would just skip teeth. So how can i stop the engine from turning? Will it be easier now that the engine is in the car? And no i didn't not remove my fans to get the pulley off. It is kinda a pain if you have big hands like me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twisty Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 theres a plug in the back that you can shove a long flat head screw driver in to lock the motor, or you can do what i did and use a chain plier with a section of old timing belt on it to hold it in place. if you go that route, make sure you have another person to hold that while you torque, it was damn near impossible to do it alone. at least without trying to wedge the vice grip handle against the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted August 2, 2012 I Donated Share Posted August 2, 2012 Only the automatics have that hole you can put the screw driver through. Its on the passenger side of the bell housing. -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 ^No, I did the screwdriver trick on my 95 L 5MT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted August 2, 2012 I Donated Share Posted August 2, 2012 ^No, I did the screwdriver trick on my 95 L 5MT. Really? -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJay03 Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 Haynes says 90-100ft lbs for a 2.5 and the FSM says 130ftlbs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 Haynes says 90-100ft lbs for a 2.5 and the FSM says 130ftlbs. haynes is wrong. FSM is right. i don't really remember if this is a problem on the ej25s, i have not experienced it. but i have had a 93 ej22 quit running because of it and a 95 with a crank pulley starting to wobble. both were repaired and put back on the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecBamf41 Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 With the auto you can toss a normal size screw driver in one of 4 places on the flex plate. With the manuals. I just toss it in gear and have someone stand on the brakes with the e brake up. My 3 cents Sent from my Galaxy Tab using TapaTalk 2 BNR18g on 93oct Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toallhisdoom Posted August 3, 2012 Author Share Posted August 3, 2012 where is this hole? it is an automatic. Are you talking about the hole that you use to loosen the torque converter bolts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCEJ22E1 Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 Underneath the car, you should easily have access to the flexplate. Turn the crank pulley counter-clockwise (w/breaker bar or long ratchet) to see one of the holes/screws & it should look like this but on the bottom: http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w40/Kenshin1984/DOHC%20EJ22E/BustedEJ25D.jpg When you see a hole, stick a screwdriver in it & turn the crank until it can't turn anymore. Then when you are sure it can't rotate, then have at taking the crank bolt off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toallhisdoom Posted August 3, 2012 Author Share Posted August 3, 2012 well, its already off! i need to put it back on. but i assume this will still work. thanks guys! so lucky that i just happened to have my floor jack, and tool box in the back of my car. car is at my work, ive been riding my crotch rocket. haha but at least when the new pulley comes ill have my tools! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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