severedevil Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 im a former grand am owner, and ive been through alot with that car replacing nearly everything, headgasket, tranny, struts, wheel bearings, gas lines yadda yadda, so i can do work on the cars, i can do good work but im not great at diagnosing them. now i got sick of putting so much cash into this car and went out and bought this nice condition subaru legacy GT, 117k auto trans miles now the car runs great and drives nice, it has a few minor problems. the guy told me it needed a tune up and a new knock sensor. the car drives great but when i try to floor it (WOT) it stutters and practically dies, but it will slowly climb to 3k and WOT it flies. now the idle is a bit rough from time to time but mostly smooths itself out. my old grand am had this same problem, i replaced map, maf, tune up, and IAC and that fixed it, i dont know if it would be the same for this car. now i was kinda nervous buying a foreign car, but hey i needed a new car and AWD for winter sounded nice. what should i be worried about with this car and what might you all think the problem for the stutter is? all help Appreciated. ty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted November 22, 2011 I Donated Share Posted November 22, 2011 Read through the link below and do everything in the MPG section Second Generation Legacy Engine FAQ -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kennyfvholla Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 As far as what you should be worried about on these cars... Have the head gaskets, timing belt, tensioners, and water pump been replaced yet? If not, keep an eye out for the gaskets failing, it's a common problem on our GT's. Most fail between 100 to 120k miles, but some last much longer. Mine lasted 167k miles and some people have never had them fail. It just depends on how well the car was taken care of and how it's been driven. If the timing belt hasn't been replaced it should be asap, as the service interval is at about 100k miles. And while you're in there you should replace the tensioners, idler pulleys, and water pump so you don't have to go back in later on. It's kind of a pain to do.. If done right, it'll only take a few hours though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted November 22, 2011 I Donated Share Posted November 22, 2011 Or an hour if you know what you're doing -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subikid90 Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 Unplug you MAF while the car is running, if there is no change in idle then the MAF is most likely bad. Could also be a know sensor, but that usually just makes the car run rough. Also it never hurts to clean the IAC (there are a few threads with how-to's on this). Agree with Kenny on the things to watch out for. -Subikid90 1997 Legacy GT 5spd & EJ251 w/EJ25D heads ~10.5CR 1998 Legacy GT Limited waiting for EJ22T hybrid swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kennyfvholla Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 Or an hour if you know what you're doing Agreed. It took myself just over an hour to do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted November 22, 2011 I Donated Share Posted November 22, 2011 Agreed. It took myself just over an hour to do it. But you had your engine out of the car right? If the engine is out of the car, its A LOT easier and quicker. I can do it in about an hour without removing the radiator ^_^ -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
severedevil Posted November 22, 2011 Author Share Posted November 22, 2011 awesome well i didnt know these cars were notorious for bad gaskets, well my old car did anyway so oh well. now are motors hard to work on on this car? im going to get a manual for this car tomorrow. and do a tune up and clean as much as i can along with replacing the rear diff fluid. now for replacing the tranny fluid and the filter, should i replace with half old oil and half new or filter and use all old or just strait new? thanks for all the input and very quick response too =] thanks all! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted November 22, 2011 I Donated Share Posted November 22, 2011 Go back to that link I posted earlier. There is a link to download the factory service manual. As far as your transmission goes, just drain the pan and refill it. Do it 3 times, drive a few hundred miles between each time. On the last fluid drain, replace the filter. Whatever you do, DO NOT flush the transmission....meaning services like TTech or similar things where they hook your car up to a machine to flush the trans. Only do a Drain and Fill on it. -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
severedevil Posted November 22, 2011 Author Share Posted November 22, 2011 ok now when u say drain and fill, fill with new or the old fluid but cleaned? also are these cars odometers reverse-able? because im not to sure a 97 could only have 117k on it. i meen the body itsnt terrible, very little rust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted November 22, 2011 I Donated Share Posted November 22, 2011 My 98 only has 130 on it. I've seen them with less than 50k before. Odometers aren't reversible. You can switch out the entire gauge cluster for a lower mileage one. If you suspect this is the case, run a CarFax report and check mileage in the cars history to find out if this happened or not. A perfect example I can give you is my old 95. Odometer said 104k when I first bought it. I ran a car fax report later on to find out that the car has well over 200k on it. Someone at some point in time switched the gauge cluster for a lower mileage one. Fill the trans with new fluid on each drain and fill -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kennyfvholla Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 But you had your engine out of the car right? If the engine is out of the car, its A LOT easier and quicker. I can do it in about an hour without removing the radiator ^_^ Nope! Cuz after I got the engine back into the car and everything hooked back up, and I mean EVERYTHING, the water pump started leaking because of the crappy felpro gasket.. I then just tore out the radiator (and if I had a grille it would be removed because it gives you a ridiculous amount of access) and then had at it. awesome well i didnt know these cars were notorious for bad gaskets, well my old car did anyway so oh well. now are motors hard to work on on this car? im going to get a manual for this car tomorrow. and do a tune up and clean as much as i can along with replacing the rear diff fluid. now for replacing the tranny fluid and the filter, should i replace with half old oil and half new or filter and use all old or just strait new? thanks for all the input and very quick response too =] thanks all! New filter, new fluids. Do EXACTLY what Brokin said to do about this. The cars are easy to work on, but depending on what you're doing they can still be a complete pain if you're not used to working on them. Get the Haynes repair manual and use that in conjunction with the Factory Service Manual, that's what I did. Also if you live in NY and have very little rust on this type of car, you're car has definitely been taken care of and very well could have 117k original miles. I used to live on Long Island, and I know how driving a car year round up there takes it's toll. Crappy, beat up roads, and the winters with all that salt... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
severedevil Posted November 23, 2011 Author Share Posted November 23, 2011 ok 2 codes popped up, P0325 - Knock Sensor, P0341 - cam pos sensor, now i ordered a new knock sensor because the motor has no knock and its what i was told was wrong with it. adv auto wanted 80bucks for it, 17.99 on ebay. now i was also told that the knock sensor can trip the cam pos sensor, am i wrong? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted November 23, 2011 I Donated Share Posted November 23, 2011 I would start with the knock sensor. However, I don't think the knock sensor will trip the cam position sensor code as well to be honest with you -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
severedevil Posted November 24, 2011 Author Share Posted November 24, 2011 so how should i rig a CAI in my car? the Weapon R doesn't seem to fit but i can make it and will try Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted November 24, 2011 I Donated Share Posted November 24, 2011 You shouldnt. Make a "hybrid" intake. Basically stock air box but run metal pipe from the air box to the throttle body.They hybrid intakes to much better -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
severedevil Posted November 24, 2011 Author Share Posted November 24, 2011 ok rigged a CAI till i actually get the correct one. i had a couple questions which i bet the hanes manual will answer when i get one but just incase anyone had a diff opinion.... for the driver side of the motor spark plugs, remove batt and WW fluid? also to replace knock sensor, remove TB and black intake above or remove that + intake manifold? and where might the Cam pos sensor(pcm??) be located and can it be cleaned or something wrong with motor or would that be a bad sensor? it needs a tune up, the belts pretty shot, will be doing that all asap if anywheres open thanksgiving. and whats stock TB im thinking of gettin a 90MM if its bigger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
severedevil Posted November 24, 2011 Author Share Posted November 24, 2011 You shouldn't. Make a "hybrid" intake. Basically stock air box but run metal pipe from the air box to the throttle body.They hybrid intakes to much better ok well i guess i can put it back lol will need to get a K&N air Filter atleast, where do i get these hybrid pipes? and will it provide extra performance? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted November 24, 2011 I Donated Share Posted November 24, 2011 yeah remove your battery and washer fluid resivoir and it will make it a little bit easier. -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kennyfvholla Posted November 24, 2011 Share Posted November 24, 2011 As long as you have a swivel and a 3" or 6" extension, you won't have to remove the battery. Taking out the washer fluid reservoir will give you adequate space. The cam position sensor is located at the front of the drivers side intake cam, on the front cap. You won't have to remove the intake manifold to view it. Just the cam cover. If there is gunk on the sensor, that could cause it to read wrong, so attempt to clean it with the carb spray. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
severedevil Posted November 24, 2011 Author Share Posted November 24, 2011 awesome thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
severedevil Posted November 27, 2011 Author Share Posted November 27, 2011 so today i changed the spark plugs and still waiting for my wires and coil via ups. now im pretty sure its not a big deal because these cars have timing belts not chains but, i discovered the timing belt has a nice 5 by 2in piece broken off the driver side timing cover behind the battery under the cam sensorish area.. would this cause an issue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kennyfvholla Posted November 27, 2011 Share Posted November 27, 2011 Well, there's a gaping hole by the cam sensor... I'd say it isn't stopping anything from getting in there. So it's possible. I have also seen people have no timing cover caps on both sides of the engine and never have a problem, though.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
severedevil Posted November 27, 2011 Author Share Posted November 27, 2011 well i replaced the cam sensor and knock sensor and the codes still showing up and its still running shitty, i think i need a new coil and wires tho. where is the ignition module for this car? if i replace the coil i might replace the module too. that is if it doesn't fix the issue. which my subie idles good, drives good except for when i try to go above 3k rpm. it bogs and stutters. also i put ducttape over the hole so nothing else can get in, would the hole make the cam sensor inaccurate? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted November 27, 2011 Share Posted November 27, 2011 some folks do run with no timing covers. it does not affect how the car runs as long as nothing, (like rocks, sticks, oil, gas, or sand,) damages the belt. but if the beklt has been damaged , all bets are off. but i doubt that is your problem. more likely is that what ever caused the damage to your covers, also caused your timing to jump??????????????? assuming this engine was in the car when the covers were damaged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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