Bolt up turbocharger upgrade - Vol-2

I will be purchasing a turbo here in the very near future and I am trying to decide between the 16g and the 18g. I have a built engine and my mods are EL header, catless UP and DP and a tune from Church automotive. With my current set up I am getting 263 HP at 17.2 PSI. Where, approximately will the 16g with stock fueling get me, how much more of a difference will upgrading the fueling do? And what would the outcome be with the 18g? I noticed an earlier post here that listed the dyno chart for an 18g with fueling and it was about 234 HP. I know that different dynos produce different numbers so I'm not looking for an outright number, but seeing as the dyno that I used gave me 263, I'm wondering what I should expect to see.

I was reorganizing the shop yesterday and I found two IP&T turbo oil line kits tucked away.

I was reorganizing the shop yesterday and I found two IP&T turbo oil line kits tucked away.

 

How much for the oil line kit?

 

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http://i.imgur.com/Ib5RF9f.jpg

And they're gone

 

Should've put em up on ebay and posted the link here.

 

Thanks for the quick PM response....now I just need a bigger turbo, and an UP and a DP.

Hard to answer...depends so much on your specific car, tuner, etc. From your numbers, you were doing very well with what I assume is the stock turbo. For comparison, my car was very knock limited and on a 16g with fuel mods I only was getting ~240 whp by airboy. This is not ~350 whp by airboy on E85. Absolutely an enormous difference. Peak torque also jumped almost 100 ft/lbs.

 

What I was told when I was deciding between these two was that, yes, the 16g, at least the larger 16g offered by BNR, WILL run out of fuel up top with stock pump / injectors. I don't want to quote a specific number but something in the 10-20 whp range would be my guess. People with more tuning experience may be able to refine this.

 

With an 18g, you will certainly have a small hit to spool compared to the 16g but this turbo IMHO would NOT make sense without upgraded fuel system. Leaving too much on the table up top for the hit in boost threshold.

 

I will be purchasing a turbo here in the very near future and I am trying to decide between the 16g and the 18g. I have a built engine and my mods are EL header, catless UP and DP and a tune from Church automotive. With my current set up I am getting 263 HP at 17.2 PSI. Where, approximately will the 16g with stock fueling get me, how much more of a difference will upgrading the fueling do? And what would the outcome be with the 18g? I noticed an earlier post here that listed the dyno chart for an 18g with fueling and it was about 234 HP. I know that different dynos produce different numbers so I'm not looking for an outright number, but seeing as the dyno that I used gave me 263, I'm wondering what I should expect to see.

Hey guys just got my 16g from bnr today and looks like there is some sand in it? Is this normal? Sorry for the stupid question I was just under the assumption you wernt suposed to get any trash inside.. Also if I slowly rotate it in my hands I hear something rolling around inside like something is loose. Sorry for the newbie questions I just wanna make sure this is normal before I head up to the shop. Thamx all

Was the package damaged?

The sand must have been on a pocket inside the compressor housing. It is a sand casting. Just close up the oil feed and drain parts of the bearing housing and blow compressed air through the compressor inlet and outlet. Once cleared, should be fine.

 

If you don't feel good about doing so, return it and I'll take it apart and get it back to you.

 

 

Bryan@BNR

The sand must have been on a pocket inside the compressor housing. It is a sand casting. Just close up the oil feed and drain parts of the bearing housing and blow compressed air through the compressor inlet and outlet. Once cleared, should be fine.

 

If you don't feel good about doing so, return it and I'll take it apart and get it back to you.

 

 

Bryan@BNR

 

Thanks I will try that I can't afford to wait another week, it's our only car now and I realy don't wanna drive it anymore till this is fixed. The package wasn't damaged it was jus all inside the plastic bag and it's all over the inside of inlet, exhaust and tho cold side of the intercooler part. Not sure if I'm using the correct terminology but you probly kno what I mean. What about the loose sound I hear when rotating left to right it sounds like something is sliding across the bottom on the inside? Thanks again

Send it back ...

I may not have a car by the time I get it back..I can't afford to not drive my car, it's our only one we both have jobs we have to get to and I've been driving to long as it is..of course this hasn't happend to anyone else

The answer is, if you are going to do fueling, get the 18G. If you are not, get the 16G. This applies to pump gas only; E85 is a different story.

 

Does it make sense to go with the 18g and a tune for now and, say, 6 months later add fueling and a retune to the picture? Other than not getting the most out of the 18g from the get go, are there downsides?

 

Thanks!

I thought about getting the 18g and injectors down the road kind of wish I had but I have yet to finish installing the 16, I may be more pleased with it than I expected. As far as the sand in the turbo I talked to Bryan and I just blew it out with compressed air and there is not a piece left in it now. I was realy panicking for nothing

Glad that worked out!

This 6StarSpeed 20g finally arrived as the Garrett ball bearing CHRA was not available. Waited patiently since early June.http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/07/9umy7adu.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/07/a6atezyb.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/07/7eduquze.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/07/5agudeby.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/07/yqa7y7am.jpg

 

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Plz help I just put new vacuum lines on the wastegate and the one next to it and I'm getting hardly any boost. Cyro informed me that I can't change the lines with the stock boost control system but there is no way i can get the factory lines on the new turbo.. Do I need a new boost control solenoid and would an upgraded one make more boost than stock? Sorry for newbie questions I'm just trying to get the bugs worked out before the tune

You can change the lines but must retain the stock boost pill in the line coming off the compressor if your using the stock boost solenoid. If you get a grim speed ebcs the pill is removed entirely.

 

Dave

Dave, so this is true of all GS EBCS installs? To remove any pill completely? Getting ready to install my 68HTA and was looking for info on this.

Plz help I just put new vacuum lines on the wastegate and the one next to it and I'm getting hardly any boost. Cyro informed me that I can't change the lines with the stock boost control system but there is no way i can get the factory lines on the new turbo.. Do I need a new boost control solenoid and would an upgraded one make more boost than stock? Sorry for newbie questions I'm just trying to get the bugs worked out before the tune

 

Think I read somewhere (or maybe it was Turkeylord's engine build pictures or comments) that the new BNR-branded compressor nipples are larger-sized piping. If that's the case, something to adapt the lines from the BNR to the stock BCS nipple may be in order.

Dave, so this is true of all GS EBCS installs? To remove any pill completely? Getting ready to install my 68HTA and was looking for info on this.

While I'm not Dave (he is my tuner though ), I can confirm that the Grimmspeed 3-port EBCS instructions do say to remove the line with the restrictor pill - which I did for my installation/tune. Going to an interrupt BC from a bleed system eliminates the need for the pill is my understanding, so this is likely accurate for any 3-port EBCS from the OEM.

 

Think I read somewhere (or maybe it was Turkeylord's engine build pictures or comments) that the new BNR-branded compressor nipples are larger-sized piping. If that's the case, something to adapt the lines from the BNR to the stock BCS nipple may be in order.

Yup, Mine came with 1/4" nipples

 

I used cheap Autozone reducing couplers for now, but I intend to replace the fittings on my EBCS and run all 1/4" line. Cobb makes a nice kit here, or you can source 1/8" NPT to 1/4" barb fittings elsewhere. All of the Mac valve based EBCSs (Cobb, GS, AEM, etc.) are 1/8" NPT ports.

Edited December 16, 2013 by Turkeylord