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Wide Band (& or boost) brand personal opinions please


YourConfused

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I have spent hours looking at various brands on the net, and quite a few seem nice. Problem is that I have no first hand knowledge of and do not know anyone who has anything installed on their car.

 

I am after something small, so it can be installed in the above the clock cubby beside a boost gauge, and being able to data log with it would be a plus.

 

Money is always a factor, but I expect to spend at least $200 on the WB and as little as possible on the boost. Yes, I know you get what you pay for, so there is no ceiling as of yet. I would also want the gauges to match the lighting of factory and not be flashy.

 

So, who has what? What do you think, and would you recommend it to me given my criteria?

 

Thanks guys for this forum and the useful information I always find on here.

 

PLEASE POST PICS IF YOU CAN! :)

 

p.s. I want to use these for tuning purposes, which is why I posted in this location.

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I run an Innovate LC-1 wideband and it's cheap and gets the job done. Works nicely at the rear O2 sensor location, since I had it closer to the turbo before and killed a sensor. I run their red gauge too and it's handy.

 

I really like the Defi gauges. I can hit one button and see what peak boost I hit after the fact or record sweeps. Matches the cluster great too. Electronic boost gauges are really nice.

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I run an Innovate LC-1 wideband and it's cheap and gets the job done. Works nicely at the rear O2 sensor location, since I had it closer to the turbo before and killed a sensor. I run their red gauge too and it's handy.

 

I really like the Defi gauges. I can hit one button and see what peak boost I hit after the fact or record sweeps. Matches the cluster great too. Electronic boost gauges are really nice.

 

So where did you mount your LC-1?

Is your car running without the use of the second o2 sensor then? Wouldn't it not like that and throw a cat efficiency code?

 

I am familiar with the LC-1, but am going to check out the Defi you mentioned. It sounds pretty cool!

 

Thanks

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YC,

 

I went with prosport halo series. They have peak recall, match well the stock gauges well, and what I absolutely love is their ability to alarm you if a gauge passes a certain threshold (low oil pressure for example).

 

I have them in my cubby and I'll have to snap a pic for ya. Or just show you some time since you appear to be local. http://prosportgauges.com/halo-series.aspx

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So where did you mount your LC-1?

Is your car running without the use of the second o2 sensor then? Wouldn't it not like that and throw a cat efficiency code?

 

I am familiar with the LC-1, but am going to check out the Defi you mentioned. It sounds pretty cool!

 

Thanks

 

The LC-1 controller is under the glovebox (easy access to the serial cable for tuning in the glove box). Both the gauges are just below the head liner, secured at the top left of the windshield. I like this spot because it keeps my vision up, and I glance at the gauges when I am on the race track.

 

My car is fully modified and custom tuned, so I disabled everything associated with the rear O2 :)

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I also have the Prosport Halo gauges(actually just oil pressure for now). It can be inconsistent. I have an LC1 that is being lent to a friend and my friends have used PLX widebands and AEM. They all work, sometimes glitchy everynow and then but after recalibration they are solid. Street Rays is right down the street from you(streetrays.com), you can just swing by to get your gauge if they have it in stock. Ask for Mike.
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YC,

 

I went with prosport halo series. They have peak recall, match well the stock gauges well, and what I absolutely love is their ability to alarm you if a gauge passes a certain threshold (low oil pressure for example).

 

I have them in my cubby and I'll have to snap a pic for ya. Or just show you some time since you appear to be local. http://prosportgauges.com/halo-series.aspx

 

I think I am in love with the prosport halo series!!!

I had never heard of them, but am glad you (and bnguyenbb6) mentioned them.

I like the all in one solution and I am gathering that you can still data log with their wide band.

 

Thanks.

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I also have the Prosport Halo gauges(actually just oil pressure for now). It can be inconsistent. I have an LC1 that is being lent to a friend and my friends have used PLX widebands and AEM. They all work, sometimes glitchy everynow and then but after recalibration they are solid. Street Rays is right down the street from you(streetrays.com), you can just swing by to get your gauge if they have it in stock. Ask for Mike.

 

What the hell! They are a mile from me, or less, and I had no idea!!! lol

 

Thanks for the info.:)

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The LC-1 controller is under the glovebox (easy access to the serial cable for tuning in the glove box). Both the gauges are just below the head liner, secured at the top left of the windshield. I like this spot because it keeps my vision up, and I glance at the gauges when I am on the race track.

 

My car is fully modified and custom tuned, so I disabled everything associated with the rear O2 :)

 

NICE!

 

So, do you have any pics anywhere?

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Hi mate,

 

Ive got a autometer boost guage and an autometer wideband and they both fit quite well - the boost was about $100 and the O2 abbout $180 if i recall correctly. The beauty abotu the autometer guages is that they have heaps of different colour schemes so you can pick on that matches your dash or whereever your putting it.

 

The wideband is great because at power-on it spends 20 seconds calibrating and chnecking the sensors so you know its running perfectly everytime. It also has a bosch sensor so you know its quality. my version has 0-4v outputs which i use as input with my dataloggit to tune, and i believe they have a model up from mine which can log/store and reply internally. heres a photo

DSC01185.JPG.74f2b6036e4ce69873f045451c68a1eb.JPG

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^^ I'm going to disagree. Mechanical>electronic boost, reliability wise.

 

Reliability is one thing, calibration and accuracy is another. Try finding a boost leak when the problem ends up being your mechanical boost gauge :rolleyes:

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Reliability is one thing, calibration and accuracy is another. Try finding a boost leak when the problem ends up being your mechanical boost gauge :rolleyes:

 

HAHAHAHAHA That would be really annoying to try and find that leak!

 

I've used Autometer in the past, mechanical ones, and never had a problem but I'm going to try electrical this time. Cause, you know, nothing can go wrong with electrical components. :rolleyes:

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here we go, thanks for these pics......

 

 

 

224663_200321773336559_100000762125849_435639_7871210_n.jpg

 

prosport performance electric boost gauge 52mm on an autometer 2" pod mount. AWESOME gauge.

 

http://prosportgauges.com/52mm-boost-gauge.aspx cheaper if you order the gauges through prosport themselves.

 

Hi mate,

 

Ive got a autometer boost guage and an autometer wideband and they both fit quite well - the boost was about $100 and the O2 abbout $180 if i recall correctly. The beauty abotu the autometer guages is that they have heaps of different colour schemes so you can pick on that matches your dash or whereever your putting it.

 

The wideband is great because at power-on it spends 20 seconds calibrating and chnecking the sensors so you know its running perfectly everytime. It also has a bosch sensor so you know its quality. my version has 0-4v outputs which i use as input with my dataloggit to tune, and i believe they have a model up from mine which can log/store and reply internally. heres a photo

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Don't get an LC-1.

 

OK, so I have read some of your posts and this can be a typical short answer from you.

 

I am sure you know much more about these cars and their modifications than I do, so please tell me why you do not recommend the LC-1.

 

Thanks

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What software do you / your tuner use for data logging? I strongly suggest getting a WBO2 that is supported by that software.

 

I'm a big fan of this product line:

 

http://www.plxdevices.com/

 

SM-AFR sensor/controller, and your choice of gauges. Their fancy graphical gauge is pretty cool, you can set it up to give you a seismograph-style display, which makes it a lot easier to see what's going on when you're not logging (i.e. daily driving). It is supported by RomRaider but I don't know about Cobb.

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The Prosport has an output for logging, but i have not found whether or not it is of use for me to logg with my laptop. Tuner is using Romraider. I had been looking at PLX also, but they want alot for their systems and having to hide modules seems like it would be annoying. It reminds me of the old MSD crap that required the use of 'pills' to change things. Or Holley carbs with their jets that had to be changed for tuning.

 

Point taken though, if I can't use it to logg with then it is nothing more than a pretty toy to look at.

 

 

What software do you / your tuner use for data logging? I strongly suggest getting a WBO2 that is supported by that software.

 

I'm a big fan of this product line:

 

http://www.plxdevices.com/

 

SM-AFR sensor/controller, and your choice of gauges. Their fancy graphical gauge is pretty cool, you can set it up to give you a seismograph-style display, which makes it a lot easier to see what's going on when you're not logging (i.e. daily driving). It is supported by RomRaider but I don't know about Cobb.

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NICE!

 

So, do you have any pics anywhere?

 

Nothing really. I could snap a pic next time I drive the car.

 

Some people have had bad luck with the LC-1. The PLX is a good option, but I think it is more expensive. The AEM UEGO is another nice option.

Also, why are some people under the impression an electronic boost gauge is less reliable? Been running my DEFI BF for over 5 years now

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OK, so I have read some of your posts and this can be a typical short answer from you.

 

I am sure you know much more about these cars and their modifications than I do, so please tell me why you do not recommend the LC-1.

 

Thanks

 

I am pretty sure I have posted the details but here is the Cliff's notes: The LC-1 is a piece of junk, it's wiring is overly complicated, the need for constant "calibration" is annoying and they tend to have very short lives. Other than that, it is the perfect wideband :lol:

 

They are perfect for people who like things to be fussy and hard to deal with.

 

Get the PLX.

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