needsome quick help with post trans swap starting issues.

IGNORE THIS PARAGRAPH, SEE ONE BELOW.

 

So I put a new auto unit in my 1995, old was show inside so I found one with 150k on it to put in. After all is said and done when I try to start it it'll wo everything but fire the starter. I have checked and reconnected the negative and positive leads as well as the single wire on the back. What else should I check? One possibility may be the gear selection lever not registering right but no matter where I put it the result is the same. So what's next?

So I put a new auto unit in my 1995, old was show inside so I found one with 150k on it to put in. After all is said and done when I try to start it it'll wo everything but fire the starter. I have checked and reconnected the negative and positive leads as well as the single wire on the back. What else should I check? One possibility may be the gear selection lever not registering right but no matter where I put it the result is the same. So what's next?

You could try proof reading what you have just written so that you could fix your mistakes. It would be a great help for people reading your comments when it comes trying to help you with your problem.

Will when I ma back on my pc. Posting from a phone with cold greasy fingers ATM.

Ok. So after putting a fresh automatic trans in my 1995 legacy gt I can't get the starter to crank. I have checked my wiring again and again and all seems to be as it was before I started work on the car. The car goes through the stages of starting all up to when the starter should crank, then it just does nothing, as if the car isn't recognizing or letting it start. One idea That I had was that the car may not think that the trans is in park or neutral but I am not sure how to test that. Hope some of you have ideas.

See if you can spin the motor freely. If it dont move, then its installed wrong

 

Edit: i'm talking about the engine/trans not mated right if it dont spin not the starter

the first thing i would do is check to see if you have electriciy at the small spade connector on the starter solenoid when you turn the key.

the large wire on the starter should have juice all the time.

but the small wire will only have power when the key in the ''start'' position.

 

if you have power there, it is your starter.

probably the contacts in the solenoid.

maybe the battery cable connections,

check both ends of the positive cable.

 

if no power there,

i would swap the neutral safety switch off of the old trans on to the new trans.

it is located on the side of the trans where the shift cable connects.

it is a pretty easy job,

and you can learn the details by removing the old one.

but you do have to get under the car.

One idea That I had was that the car may not think that the trans is in park or neutral but I am not sure how to test that. Hope some of you have ideas.

 

I would think that if the car thought the trans was in neutral then it wouldn't crank over at all. When you turn the key and the dash lights up if you shift it up and down it should light up the corresponding light on the dash.

 

I'd do what Johnegg says and swap the old neutral saftey back on. They can be adjusted slightly if need be.

Thanks for the help, once day breaks I'll check all the things that you all mentioned. I wouldn't be surprized if the switch got bumped during the swap and is now non functioning.

Kwiatkowski, did you swap your transmission in a home garage or driveway without an automotive lift? I am considering doing so for a friend, and am wondering how difficult of a task it may be for a scrawny fellow without air tools such as myself.

in my opinion, air tools is not the issue.

a trans jack is the issue.

 

these things weigh 200 - 250 lbs.

lifting that up while on your back is bitch.

check out harbor freight for a trans jack.

they may have one for not too much.

I did it at home two people helping for the lifting. Getting it out wasn't so bad, we had a hack under the diff and two people supporting the back. Getting it back in was a headsctatcher though. We ended up shimmying it up with a bottle jack at the back and a normal one up front and stacking boards up under the oil pan. Once we got it up to height it slid right In. If you do it yourself make sure that the studs are pilled off the engine for removal, they can be a pain if they want to bind. Also, dobt forget to wedge or tie the engine up so that it doesn't add stress and slow down your work. Follow Follow the guide from the user in TN with the face pic. He posts it on most trans swap themed threads

Make sure the starters single wire is hooked up. It's the one that get the signal from the ignition switch.

Years ago I made a adapter for my 3 ton jack out of scrap metal specifically for installing transmissions. It just sits on the jack pad and is adjustable for different transmissions. Works great.

Got it fixed, it was just the plug being finiky. SO here's the next issue. It only wants to go a few feet forward or reverse. Only thing done to the trans different was we placed the old front diff on the new body because it was off of a true OB and the FD diff ratios are different. So what could cause it to move only a little forward and back? -note, barely using any throttle while doing the test.