can someone answer this?

i have been problems with my car temp. it seems to raise when i have the clutch in when coasting or when i brake. when i rev the engine it will drop back to where it should be. does anyone know why this s and how i can fix it? thanks

Either it's low on coolant or the water pump starting to go out. Only when you rev it up is when it starts to cool? right?

i no its not my coolant cuz i chck that everyday and yes that is correct

Water pump flow issue. Could be a partially clogged radiator or heater core as well.

When checking the coolant, are you taking the radiator cap off and looking in or are you looking at the reservoir bottle?

If you check you radiator coolant and it's full, then here are your possibilies.

 

- Water pump going out

- Thermostat stuck or clogged

- Clog inside the engine, radiator or heater core

- Radiator Fan?

All the heat built up from driving has nowhere to go if the engine is dropped to idle abruptly. Keep it in gear to keep the engine speed/water pump speed up to deal with the heat.

Just keep it in gear as you decel and while braking/coasting and the water pump will be turning fast enough to deal with the hot coolant. The car will not use gas while coasting in gear. Your actually using more fuel by taking it out of gear, not much, but it needs fuel to idle.

 

You may also see this happen when you go from freeway driving to a stoplight real fast. As you sit there at the light the end of the ramp, all that heat that has saturated the engine can't get out due to the engine just idling.

 

That's not to say that there isn't a problem with the car, but try changing the way you drive it first. You really shouldn't take it out of gear like that.

Good luck

yeah that does happen when i come to an abrupt stop. so where is the water pump located and is it hard to replace and i now its not the thermostat since i just changed that not to long ago. also is the heating core complicating to change

yeah that does happen when i come to an abrupt stop. so where is the water pump located and is it hard to replace and i now its not the thermostat since i just changed that not to long ago. also is the heating core complicating to change

 

Water pump is timing belt driven, which means your tearing apart the front half of the motor.

 

Heater core is in the hvac box which means the dash is coming out.

and i now its not the thermostat since i just changed that not to long ago.

 

ding, ding, ding, we may have a winner???

 

was the car overheating before you changed the t-stat?

and, what brand of t-stat did you use? if it was not a subaru t-stat that could be your issue, or at least part of it.

The OEM type thermostat is available at parts stores

read about it here, http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=128919

yeah it was over heating before i changed it and the temp gauge is only going up everyonce and a while which makes it weird and umm i just got a t-stat from oreilly didnt get oem so maybe thats it but idk

Is the radiator fan kicking on when you stop at a stoplight or sitting at idle?

yes it does so thats why its weird i also changed the fuses for the cooling system to make sure it wasnt that

Well this leads a water pump failing or possible clog in the system.

well shit lol this blows and dont have the moneny to get it fixed:/

Well, if there isn't enough coolant flow through the radiator, it's either a clogged radiator, a bad water pump, or a faulty thermostat just like everyone is saying.

Swapping the thermostat for a "better" one would be the cheapest attempt to fix it. The shaft and impeller on the water pump are really the only parts of the cooling system that can rust away. The only way to check that is to take it off.

A clogged radiator isn't easy to clear out either. It's best just to replace it. The coolant system flush available at the parts stores isn't as strong as it used to be years ago, and it rarely works to clear a clogged rad.

It's also possible that the guage or sender is bad and your not getting the right temp displayed. But you need to install a seperate temp guage to know for sure. The aftermarket ones are cheap, and easy to install, but you'll also need a metric adapter since the sensor with the guage is standard thread. But if the fans come on when the temp goes up we may be able to rule that out, I think the fan circuit uses a different sensor and if it does, than it's sensor is confirming that the other is working correctly if the fans come on when it gets hot.

How does the radiator look on the outside? Is it falling apart on the bottom? That's usually what goes first. Are the cooling fins clear or full of dirt and bugs? If it's clogged on the outside, the best way to clear that is to remove the rad and use a hose form the engine side blowing the debri back out the way it came in. You can shine a flashlight thru it at night from the engine side when it's still in the car and look through the grill to see if the light comes through or not. If not, your clogged up. You should be able to see right through it. If not, air can't get through to carry the heat away. A mild household cleaner or dish soap may help to loosen up the bugs and stuff.

To check the inside of the radiator for cloggs, you can try to run the heater on high when the engine is getting hot, all it is is a little radiator itself so if running the heater brings the temp down, it's a safe bet that a new rad will fix it.

If the heater only blows hot for a few seconds then only blows cold air, you have a clogged heater core. That we can clear if there's a problem.

How did the coolant look when you replaced the thermostat? Was it bright or kinda dirty looking?

If you end up needing a radiator, there's usually some on ebay at a good price.

google radiatorbarn, i here they are $80 shipped.

so could i change this in a few hours in my garage? or need to take it in?

On a '98, it should be fairly easy to change out. Might be able to do it within 1 hour.

Radiators are cake on an na subie. If its your first time maybe an hour and a half start to finish

Wel when changing the radiator why all do I need to do? And to take off also with the timing belt and water pump how hard? And since I'll be doing all that should I get an OEM t-stat?? Or just leave the one I have in there?

should I get an OEM t-stat?? Or just leave the one I have in there?

if it is a subaru t-stat you can leave it, other wise replacw it.

well what kind is the OEM t-stat?