rear wheel bearing R&R

I have searched, is there a DIY directions on replacing the rear wheel bearing ?

 

Or is it that straight forward?

 

I bought one today for my 05 wagon with 152,000 miles. It's been humming along for a while but is beginning to make more noise when making turns. It's louder going to the left. I'm thinking its the left rear because I hear it mostly over my left shoulder.

 

I may get around to doing it on Sunday.

 

If there's no DIY thread on here, they may be one next week.

It is very straight forward as it is a hub style bearing and not a press in type.

 

1) Remove wheel

 

2) Remove and hang caliper, remove rotor.

 

3) Remove axle nut

 

4) Remove four bolts in back of hub assembly

 

5) I use a slide hammer to remove hub

 

6) Installation is the reversal of removal.

 

I can get you the torque specs from alldata tomorrow.

Not as easy as the front, hardest part is undoing all the e-brake components which isn't too bad, if your not too familiar with emergency brakes we recommend taking a picture for reference.

Not as easy as the front, hardest part is undoing all the e-brake components which isn't too bad, if your not too familiar with emergency brakes we recommend taking a picture for reference.

Absolutely no need to take apart e-brake to do the wheel bearings.

Thanks, vtbimmer, I remember reading where you don't need to take apart the e brake.

 

I should pick up a slide hammer, I'm sure Harbor Fright will have one.

 

BMS, I played with drum brakes before as well as the brakes in general. I have all the air tools and what ever I should need.

 

Thanks,

A good size hammer should do the trick if you can get the right angled swing on it, if you dont want to spend money on a slide hammer. If you do get the slide, watch your fingers!!! That sumbitch hurts!!

Absolutely no need to take apart e-brake to do the wheel bearings.

 

You are correct sir, I can't recall that far back but there was a reason why I had to put the e-brake back together on our outback, the shoes were so worn they created a deep groove in the rotor hat and all the hardware came apart when it was removed, not fun.

I have a big 3lb hammer and punches. Have some gear pullers too. A slide hammer would be a nice addition to the tool box.

I have a big 3lb hammer and punches. Have some gear pullers too. A slide hammer would be a nice addition to the tool box.

Absolutely. If you dont have a air hammer that slide hammer comes in handy for the press in bearings to remove the hub from the inner race. Very happy Subaru used hub bearings though. It's a breeze. You should be done in 1 hr tops.

I just did our LGT and I rented hub puller from local parts store

http://www.denlorstools.com/shop/images/OTC7208A_l.jpg

You should be able to slide Ebrake assembly away from hub, no need to disassemble it.

My last car had the same suspension design as the Legacy, the hardest part about the bearing was removing the actual axle nut (I was swapping 4 lug to 5 lug), and torquing it down to the spec...I guess having a big breaker bar and big torque wrench really helps...

Just realized I need to check my tool box and make sure I have 32mm/1 1/4" socket for the axle nut. If I don't, I know I have them at my sons. That's where the car sat last spring and early summer while I pulled the tranny and R&R the rear diff.

I just held everything together, so e brake and backing plate didnt fall off with my hand pushing against it after unbolting the 4 nuts. You dont need a slidding hammer. mine just came off with 95K on the car. job should only take about 30 min at max.

Don't need a slide hammer...that would save my $100 gift card for Sears, I wouldn't have to buy the nice $90 K-D slide hammer. I'm just cheap...lol

 

Worst case I can't get the old out and I have to drive the Spec to work on Monday. Then get the slide hammer.

 

Thanks,

I have decided to park the car until I can replace the left rear bearing. It is getting pretty loud when I take curves.

Good info. Thanks.

I'll be replacing a right rear tomorrow.

I'll try and get to mine this weekend, it's going to snow tomorrow, up to 3" then possible rain on Sunday.

 

I don't have a garage. My son is bringing me one of the 32mm sockets today from the big tool box at his house.

Update, well I went out to jack it up and spray the bolts with PB Blaster. 45 minutes late I gave up trying to use a punch to drive the bearing out.

 

Time for a slide hammer.

 

 

The 4 bolts came out rather easy with about 9" of 3/8 extensions on the 1/2" ratchet. The two caliper came out easy because they have been out so many times and I always use anti-seize compound.

 

The axle nut I thought was going to be a issue, I sprayed it,and I got most of the pinch raised up and hit it with the 1/2" impact. it wasn't moving. So I changed directions on the gun, hit it a few times, change back to the off direction, and it began to move.

 

This really so easy, there is no need for pictures. I should probably hold that until I get the bearing out.

Update, well I went out to jack it up and spray the bolts with PB Blaster. 45 minutes late I gave up trying to use a punch to drive the bearing out.

 

Time for a slide hammer.

 

 

The 4 bolts came out rather easy with about 9" of 3/8 extensions on the 1/2" ratchet. The two caliper came out easy because they have been out so many times and I always use anti-seize compound.

 

The axle nut I thought was going to be a issue, I sprayed it,and I got most of the pinch raised up and hit it with the 1/2" impact. it wasn't moving. So I changed directions on the gun, hit it a few times, change back to the off direction, and it began to move.

 

This really so easy, there is no need for pictures. I should probably hold that until I get the bearing out.

Yup, Ive done dozens of rear WB's on legacy's and for the most part the bearing falls right out. My current legacy was a bastard and required the slide. Always good to use a new axle nut as well. Make sure you get the same colored one that came off as they have different torque specs.

 

Another trick to getting the bearing out is to thread a crappy bolt into the bearing hole and hammer on the bolt. It will push the bearing right out. Just dont use one of the four bolts you plan to re-use.

If the humming is louder when you're making left-hand turns, why are you replacing the left rear bearing

Because I could hear the noise over my left shoulder. I also had the left front replaced about 15,000 miles ago.

 

Years ago the left side hit a pot hole on Rt91 big enough to pop the hood open. So I figured that may have lead to the left sides going bad.

 

 

vtbimmer, that's a good idea, to use other bolts. May be I'll bring one of the bolts with me while we're out buying the slide hammer. I'll check the thread size.

If the noise increases as you're turning left - aka loading the right-side suspension - then it's your RIGHT bearing that's starting to fail, not your left. Just trying to save you some time, dude.

why did you not get the whole unit rear wheel bearing assymbly? No sliding hamer needed.

If the noise increases as you're turning left - aka loading the right-side suspension - then it's your RIGHT bearing that's starting to fail, not your left. Just trying to save you some time, dude.

 

Should have told you when I make a right turn the sound is different but still comes from over my left shoulder.

 

 

 

 

I did buy the hub and bearing assembly.

I have the old hub out. Now I have to get it out of the backing plate for the brakes...?

 

Have it setting with PB Blaster on it. I assume it's just rust holding it together.

 

 

 

Waited 5 minutes...PB Blaster did the trick. A few more good whacks with the hammer, it came apart.

 

There is some play and roughness in the old bearing.