Why are you still waxing your car?

Are you still using a carnauba to wax your car? Why? If you ask any detailer about why they use one wax or another they will tell you all about how ‘wet’ it makes the paint look or how ‘deep’ the reflections are. The fact is that waxes achieve that by using greasy oils. Anything covered in oil is going to look like wet paint. It’s the nature of the product. And deep reflections are more a product of proper polishing and prep work and not as much a result of which brand of wax you are using.

 

Let’s look at what wax really offers you. Wax offers you between 4 to 6 weeks of protection from UV rays that cause paint fading. If you live in a hot climate then you can expect 4 weeks or less. Wax is wax and heat will cause it to melt and evaporate. What kind of protection is that?

 

That ‘wet look’ appearance is due to oils in the wax. Those oils also attract dust. We all know how nice it is to have a perfect looking car and then 5 minutes later have it covered in dust. Those oils don’t stay around forever, so your car is only a wet paint looking dust magnet for as long as the oils don’t evaporate. Give it a couple days and your car will look shiny, but not as wet anymore.

 

Prices for wax are also out of this world. One of the best waxes I have ever used is only $15 bucks at any Harley Davidson shop. It is called S100 and it is amazing. It competes with waxes that cost 5 times as much. You may not believe me, but some waxes out there break the bank at over $1000 a jar. Want proof? Check this puppy out. What a deal, eh? On sale for a mere $1500 bucks. A few years ago I had an Autopia member send me a chunk of this wax. He has a Ferrari dealership in his back yard, so I’m sure it wasn’t a hardship to purchase this wax. He wasn’t impressed with it and he sent it to me to compare it to other waxes that I used at the time. Compared to my $15 S100 I wouldn’t pay more than $30 bucks for Zymol Vintage. It was really under impressive and not worth anywhere near $1500 bucks. I keep it around for some customers who want to say that they have this wax on the car for shows, but other than that I wouldn’t suggest it. I don’t even use it on my own cars, so that tells you something. Pinnacle Souveran also claims to have a high amount of Brazilian White Carnauba in it, but you don’t see them slapping on a house payment sized price tag on their wax. Souveran is, by the way, a great wax… but also not worth $70 bucks when compared to S100 and other lower priced products.

 

I’m not a wax hater by any means. I have loads of wax myself. I have at least a dozen different waxes on my shelf that get used on customer cars. When someone comes to me for a detail and request certain products by name to be used, I want to be prepared. However, for my own cars I have found a much much better product than wax. I’m talking about sealants.

 

Sealants are not new technology. They become more popular in the last 20 years, but they have been around much longer than that. It has only been in the last half dozen years that polymer technology has really started to wow the detailing community. There are some names that auto enthusiasts are familiar with like Klasse, Zaino, Meguiar’s and others, but recently some remarkable advances in polymer sealants have brought us products like Blackfire, 4* Ultimate Paint Protection, and Wolfgang. Recently this technology was put back on the shelf in the form of Meguiar’s NXT and Eagle One Nanowax. Sealants offer outstanding durability at over 6 weeks for most products. 10 to 12 weeks is average for most sealants while some will last for much longer. These products bond to the paint like super glue and don’t evaporate with a little heat. They aren’t greasy oily products that attract dust either. Some of them actually have anti-static properties to them that repel dust instead of attracting it.

 

It is worth it to explore sealant technology and see how it compares to your favorite waxes. Most sealants are priced competitively and aren’t that much more expensive than a good carnauba. For example, a 16 ounce bottle of Wolfgang Paint Sealant costs under $20 at Premium Auto Care. Tack your 10% discount on top of that and it is really close to the $15 price tag on S100. Not to mention that you won’t be out in your garage waxing every weekend just to keep it looking good. Wolfgang is a very durable sealant that looks as good or better than any wax I’ve ever used. For anyone that says their carnauba is the only product to produce ‘deep’ or ‘wet’ looking finishes, take a look at these pictures and reevaluate your stand on car care products. Sealants have a lot to offer and I truly believe they are the way of the future. Why use a greasy carnauba that is fragile and creates so much work when you can use a sealant that looks this good and protects for much longer without the dust attraction?

 

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3M Imperial Hand Glaze for the shine, (your favorite wax here) for the protection.

 

 

i may try Griot's Garage paint sealant, as i seem to be getting lazier (and have less time to do the 6 hour glaze and wax job anymore.)

6 hour glaze and wax job

 

That is exactly where the instant benefit of a sealant comes in. Get better durability and the same look and protection as your 6 hour job in 30 minutes. It isn't about cutting corners. It's about being efficient and getting the most out of your product. Glazes and waxes are on their way out I tell ya. There have been no advancements in automotive carnauba wax technology in a long time. The best thing they have come up with is adding carnauba and polymer sealants together to get a little more durability and a little more gloss than either one alone. When it costs $1500 to get a product that is only 61% carnauba and 39% something else, how much actual carnauba (the protection part of wax) do you think other waxes really have in them? I don't know what the polymer content is in a typical sealant, but I know you don't need it to be very high to bond to the paint and give you a great shine.

Interesting. Can you give me input on my scenario? :

 

I use Gold Class (2 coats) after my yearly claying of the paint. It looks really deep and glossy after that alone. I use Mother's California Gold as a top coat (1 coat, followed by another before the really bad weather hits). Admittedly, the car looks even better once the Mother's goes on, but would I be better off with the 2 coats of Gold Class and then some S100 on top? I've been thinking of trying it since you posted about it a few months ago. What about that red bottle of Klasse I have sitting on my shelf-would that come into my particular mix anywhere?

OCD, I am using the mothers 3 step process. Step two is a sealer and glaze - is this the same as the sealer your talking about or just marking BS?

Waxes are funny creatures. Due to the solvents in the wax itself, likely what you are doing is just blending your first two layers of Gold Class together and then blending a layer of Mothers in with that. So the final result isn't actually 3 layers of wax. It is one layer of your own brew. Sometimes that hurts durability and sometimes it helps. I experimented with layering waxes for awhile and I found that what I got was pretty interesting wet look and gloss, but really poor reflections. The thick layer of wax I was applying was distorting my reflections and making the car look hazy. As far as wax layering goes I would just stick with Gold Class and not top it with anything. It has great durabilty and protection all by itself. However, if you like the way Mother's looks on top of Gold Class, then keep doing it that way. It isn't hurting anything and if it gives you the look you prefer then you should stick with it.

 

You really should give S100 a shot. I was a huge Gold Class fan before I discovered S100. I would try using AIO (not much more than a paint cleaner) to clean off all the wax you have now and then see what you think about a layer of S100. As with any way, don't layer anything else on right away. Give the wax time to set up before applying more product as it will make it more durable and less likely to blend together with the next product. Two layers of S100 one right after the other = one layer of S100 with a lot of wasted product that gets buffed off.

OCD, I am using the mothers 3 step process. Step two is a sealer and glaze - is this the same as the sealer your talking about or just marking BS?

 

Actually, that step in the Mother's 3 step process isn't a sealant at all. It is strictly a glaze that doesn't have the durability of a polymer sealant. In fact, Mother's sealer glaze's main job is to hide swirls with the oils and fillers in the product. It has really minor abrasives in it as well that Mother's says helps the product bond to waxes. That alone tells me it isn't a sealant because synthetics won't bond to oily surfaces like wax.

 

The whole 3 step process is just a process. It doesn't matter what products you use to accomplish it. The Mother's process is polish - glaze - wax. Another way of saying it is clean the paint - remove swirls - seal/wax. Since swirl removal is incredibly difficult to do by hand, most off the shelf 3 step process products will offer a glaze to fill and hide the swirls instead. The principle is the same with anything though. Just clean the paint with a good paint cleaner, polish out any swirls on the surface, and then seal or wax it. If your paint is in good condition then you can likely just use a paint cleaner to prepare the surface for the best bonding possible and then go for the sealant. That is why products like Klasse and Wolfgang have a pre-wax product that preps the surface for the sealant. Proper prep work is 90% of the shine you get after you are done.

Thanks- should I use the S100 in place of the Gold Class? And then the Mother's on top?

Thanks OCD. You have learned me alot about this stuff. I have read all your posts and most of you site too. Thanks for all the info You deserve a BIG UP

Thanks- should I use the S100 in place of the Gold Class? And then the Mother's on top?

 

Try it without the Gold Class or the Mother's and see what you think. If you choose to layer the products then the only thing I can suggest is to use the paste wax on top. S100 is only available in a paste wax. Paste waxes have fewer solvents and it is more likely you won't blend the waxes together if you do it that way. S100 on top of Gold Class would probably be a very good looking combination. Try that and then compare it to a sealant and see what you think. Photos can't really show the difference, but there is a huge difference with the way waxes reflect and the way sealants reflect. It is much crisper and more clear with a sealant. The oils in a wax seem to blur the reflection just a little.

So how is a sealant applied? Just like a wax? What sealants do you recommend, is Meguires NXT any good?

OCD,

 

can you post a link to where to buy S100 wax? maybe its in one of your hundred or so threads.

 

question: shouldn't you become a certified LGT.com vendor?

OCD,

 

can you post a link to where to buy S100 wax? maybe its in one of your hundred or so threads.

 

question: shouldn't you become a certified LGT.com vendor?

 

+1 but he doesn't sell nething he is just the Preacher of Perfect Paint

Sealants are all liquid in form, so they apply just like a normal liquid wax. A polisher or any other type of machine isn't necessary. Usually they buff off easier if you let them dry for a little bit, but other than that there isn't anything different. If you let them cure for about 24 hours before adding any other layers then you don't have to worry about products blending together either.

 

NXT is a really good off the shelf sealant. It is the only product that compares in looks to Zaino if you ask me. Zaino is a very popular sealant that has a cult-like fan base. I'm sure they wouldn't appreciate me comparing a product like NXT to their beloved Zaino juice, but it is true. NXT looks great. It isn't a sealant that you can layer very well though. It has micro abrasives in it and some paint cleaning qualities that would remove other layers on the paint. NXT is the closest thing to a true one step product that I have seen on the shelf. It will clean paint, polish swirls (and fill some) and offer a durable sealant. What could be better?

what if you have a clear bra on your car? can you use this stuff? I know the clear bra can be washed and waxed (NOT clayed).

You can either find it at local Harley Davidson shops (it is marketed as a motorcycle wax) or this is one of the places you can find it online. Another carnauba called P21S is made by the same company and is about twice as much. Personally I have used them both and can't find the difference. It seems motorcycle drivers are cheaper than car drivers and they felt the need to market a different package to them. It seems to be the same wax if you ask me.

what if you have a clear bra on your car? can you use this stuff? I know the clear bra can be washed and waxed (NOT clayed).

 

The important things with clear bras is that you don't use anything abrasive. you could clay it if you wanted to, but it is doubtful that it would make a whole lot of difference. You can use Klasse All in One on a clear bra because it is only chemically abrasive and not physically abrasive. Most sealants have a pre-wax paint cleaner product that could also be used on a clear bra. Then you just wax or seal them as you would do to your paint. A little extra UV protection couldn't hurt. I have a customer with a clear bra on their truck that I have been detailing for about the last 3 years. I've used 4* Ultimate Paint Protection on the clear bra with the rest of the truck 4 times a year and never had a problem or noticed any problems.

OCDetails,

 

I use the AutoDry system to clean the car and then Meguiars Spray Wax, but like you said 5 mins later the dust is back on.

 

So if I just use the NXT Sealant instead of the Spray Wax that should last and look better or should I change the initial washing process ?

Oh, sure, I read this after applying Meguiar's Gold Class wax on my red Outback.

 

I plan to order some of the Wolfgang sealant. Since the car's brand new, I wasn't planning on doing any polishing. Can the sealant go on top of the wax (or what's left of the wax in a couple of weeks)? Or do I need to clean the wax off to let the sealant reach the paint?

 

I've read elsewhere (and your postings or website) that you can layer sealants, and that you can even layer wax on top of sealants. But can I put sealant over wax?

 

Thanks. Your Legacy's an inspiration.

OCDetails,

 

I use the AutoDry system to clean the car and then Meguiars Spray Wax, but like you said 5 mins later the dust is back on.

 

So if I just use the NXT Sealant instead of the Spray Wax that should last and look better or should I change the initial washing process ?

 

All products are going to be a little bit greasy for a time after applying, but a sealant will dry out much faster and won't attract dust for long. The washing process has very little to do with dust attraction. I think you will definitely prefer the look and performance of NXT above what you are getting with the spray wax. I haven't noticed NXT attracting that much dust at all.

Oh, sure, I read this after applying Meguiar's Gold Class wax on my red Outback.

 

I plan to order some of the Wolfgang sealant. Since the car's brand new, I wasn't planning on doing any polishing. Can the sealant go on top of the wax (or what's left of the wax in a couple of weeks)? Or do I need to clean the wax off to let the sealant reach the paint?

 

I've read elsewhere (and your postings or website) that you can layer sealants, and that you can even layer wax on top of sealants. But can I put sealant over wax?

 

Thanks. Your Legacy's an inspiration.

 

Sealants can go on sealants and waxes can top it all off. You can't layer a sealant over a wax simply because the polymers won't bond to an oily surface. That is why it is a good idea to get the pre-wax cleaning products that are usually paired with a sealant. Those products will remove all the oils and give the sealant the best surface to bond to.

 

I think you'll like Wolfgang on red. Check the red Integra in these pictures. Wolfgang looks awesome on red for sure.

What I have experienced is everytime I apply the Spray Wax the 100% cotton applicator pad collects so much dirt, even though I handwashed the car a few minutes ago, that by the end of the whole application session that one side of the pad is done.

 

So I was wondering if my initial wash process wasn't thorough enough, even though I made sure to doubleup over every surface?

Maybe change your wash technique to get it cleaner, but that still won't do much for the dust attraction of the spray wax. Personally I would dump the AutoDry system and get a good soap and sheepskin washmit to do your washing. The NXT wash is one of my favorites right now, but Gold Class and Prestone also make exceptional washes. I judge a good wash by how much suds they produce and how long those suds last in the bucket. You need the soapy suds to get the car as clean as possible. I haven't found that the AutoDry system produces the kind of soap necessary to really get a car clean. It's a great tool for rinsing though.

 

One other thing... The way the AutoDry system works is by putting a certian amount of oil or wax into the washing solution so that the rinse water just sheets right off the car. Any well waxed car will do the same thing, so you don't necessarily need this product to do that. The thing that may contribute to the dust attraction is this special ingredient they use to make the rinse water slide off the surface. That is probably a factor in the dust attraction.

Sealants can go on sealants and waxes can top it all off. You can't layer a sealant over a wax simply because the polymers won't bond to an oily surface. That is why it is a good idea to get the pre-wax cleaning products that are usually paired with a sealant. Those products will remove all the oils and give the sealant the best surface to bond to.

 

I think you'll like Wolfgang on red. Check the red Integra in these pictures. Wolfgang looks awesome on red for sure.

 

Thanks! Which cleaner for a brand new car? Klasse All-In-One? I don't think I need to do any polishing--just chemically clean off the wax, right?

 

I'm looking forward to using the Wolfgang. The Garnet Red Pearl color has little pearl flecks in it, so I'm sure it'll look HOT!

If you get Wolfgang then get the Wolfgang brand Pre-Wax Polish Enhancer. I've used AIO as a base and I've used the Wolfgang product as a base and the end result looks better if you keep Wolfgang products together.