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No flow through coolling system!


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ok I have the car apart doing a water pump and find that the old pump seems to have no problems. The only thing I saw was there was webs/debris in the fail seep holes. The original problem was that there was no flow and the collant was dumping into the overflow after normal temperature pressurizes it causing the engine to overheat.. I thought it was the water pump since I did a really good flush and the systems seemed to drain well.

 

My question is how can I flush the jacket water system to make sure I have flow before putting the water pump and still having a problem? Can I flush from the water pump outlet hose? Where would that drain. Thanks in advance!!

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Can you please explain why you would think that? I understand that if it is a internal leak there should be coolant/water in the exhaust or milky oil. If it is a vapor leak there should be milky or fuel smelling coolant. The problem I am having is the coolant is not going anywhere whe being heated. It is just pressurizing and dumping into the overflow, in which makes the coolant lever low and overheats. If I syphen the coolant out of the overflow and put it back into the radiator it fills the radiator back to full.
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If you have no idea just do what I do and wait for others to answer.

 

I just want to check to see if I have good flow through the jacket water system. If there is blockage there is the problem.

 

I do not think you understood my question.

I have over 40 years experience in the automotive industry and I haven't a clue of what you are talking about.

By what you wrote, I'm guessing you haven't a much about how the cooling system works. I'll try to cover the operation of the cooling system and causes for overheating.

If there is excessive pressure,or overheating in the cooling system it can only be caused by a number of things.

A blown head gasket,

overheating from a bad radiator fan switch,or radiator fan.

a stuck thermostat,

a loose water pump belt,

or an obstruction in the system like blocked radiator internal passages or bent external cooling finns on the radiator or AC condenser.Improper engine timing has also been known to make an engine run hot.

The water jacket in the engine,or the water pump, is seldom, if ever, the reason for an overheating engine. As you must have noticed,there isn't really anything that can fail on the water pump that would keep it from pumping. It will leak making itself known of impending failure long before the pump itself fails.

There will not be noticeable coolant movement in the radiator if the engine is not at a temperature that is sufficient to open the thermostat or if the thermostat is stuck in the closed position. If the heater is putting out heat the coolant is flowing through the engine. If the thermostat is stuck, there will not be any,or very little coolant flow to and from the radiator.

The amount of coolant in the overflow tank did not cause the overheating,the engine had to already be overheated to cause the coolant to be released into the overflow tank. Check the operation of the cooling fan.

If a bunch of stop leak has been put into the system,coolant passages in the bottom of the radiator could be blocked restricting coolant flow in the radiator.

Check that the upper and lower radiator hoses are about the same temperature as the engine.

If the engine is hot and the upper radiator hose is cool,replace the thermostat.

If the engine is hot and the radiator is cold,replace the thermostat.

If the bottom half of the radiator is cold when the engine is hot,replace the thermostat first and if the problem isn't cured, replace the radiator,or have it professionally cleaned.

A laser temperature reading device will be a great aid in locating problem areas in the cooling system.

It is never a good idea to just start replacing parts to find a problem. It is expensive and a waste of time. Always locate the problem before replacing any parts.

Please try to learn how to describe what the exact problem is.

IE,my engine is overheating and my coolant overflow tank is full. That's all that would be needed in this case. The rest is just confusing.

.

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Ok I appoligize about my explaination. I have a hard time getting it out sometimes. I appreciate you giving me a in depth process of the cooling system. I will have to check a couple of things out also.

 

I know my radiator fan is working, put in a new tstat before this happened(same way it came out), old water pump seems to be fine(replacing with new pump), going to check over the radiator for dents or make sure it is clear inside. The overflow was filling up since the system was overpressurized and going no where that is why I thought water pump or maybe a clog.

 

Should I just go ahead and do headgaskets while the car is apart? I know it is a long process and I will be just jacking the engine up, but car is running like shit and need to fix it. Engine has 93,000 on it.

 

Thing is that I can drive for about 20 mins on the highway with no problems and then it all of a sudden happens. I pull over let the engine cool, syphen the overflow and add it to the radiator again. The weird thing is that in the overflow there is enough to fill the radiator back up. I am really confused!

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Nope 93,000 on it. There is a strong smell to the coolant and I just flushed and replaced it. Looks cloudy again. Also noticed the oil level dropping. I have read all the threads about headgaskets before so it is time to brush up on them. Alright we will call this one a headgasket thread.
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everytime your coolant overheats its life is cut in half,

This is why your coolant is gonna look like shit and i reccomend flushing and changing soon. (after you find the leak/ guarantee its a headgasket or whatever)

 

 

No, not really

(Updated 8/22/17)

2005 Outback FMT

Running on Electrons

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