black318i Posted June 5, 2011 Share Posted June 5, 2011 Mine did the same thing then the boot split several weeks later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted June 6, 2011 Share Posted June 6, 2011 (edited) Mine did the same thing then the boot split several weeks later. ^ same for me on the driver side. Edited June 7, 2011 by xt2005bonbon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted June 6, 2011 Share Posted June 6, 2011 (edited) Definitely something I will add to my monthly set of car chores. Takes about 10sec to just peek down and see if there's grease everywhere. Of course, if it's the one above the catalytic converter, you'll notice the smell right away anyhow ! I give my boots a close inspection at oil change time, in addition to peeking down What I mean by close inspection is I take a flashlight and look close for developing cracks. Try NOT to touch the boot itself. The rubber hardens up with age and you run the risk of cracking it yourself if you're brutal with it. I have a crack in the driver's inner boot now at the small clamp, but it has not extended so I am hoping for the best. Been there for a year now. Edited June 6, 2011 by fishbone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tubasteve Posted June 11, 2011 Share Posted June 11, 2011 my passenger side boot is split in half. muddy looking grease all over and smells like bigfoots dick prolly gonna pay to have this done. got a quote for reboot (inside & outside) $200 is the driver side gonna go soon are the chances good the drivers side goes in the next.... I dunno the next year? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted June 11, 2011 Share Posted June 11, 2011 For $200 we will remove and replace a half shaft with an OEM rebuilt. Probably do it for under $200. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyShackleford Posted June 11, 2011 Share Posted June 11, 2011 I paid $170 to re-boot (with repacking the grease, I guess, if it was needed, I guess that's what "rebuild" means ?) the passenger-side inner only. They told me that the outers rarely need attention because they're neoprene. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted June 11, 2011 Share Posted June 11, 2011 ^ You got scammed. Sorry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyShackleford Posted June 11, 2011 Share Posted June 11, 2011 ^ You got scammed. Sorry. You talkin' to me ? How scammed, exactly ? Because I paid $30 less and a mechanic in my garage repacked the CV joint with grease instead of one at an "OEM rebuild" factory ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted June 12, 2011 Share Posted June 12, 2011 When you get a rebuilt, you get both ends of the axle replaced. Not one. Both ends are identical. Outside boot tends to have a loose clamp from the factory and throws grease by around 40k miles. You paid $30 less and got 50% as much. Thats how scammed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tubasteve Posted June 12, 2011 Share Posted June 12, 2011 The couple shops I called (subie specialists) said if my axle is in good shape that they definitely recommend reboot over replace. They said reman or aftermarket axles can be troublesome. Got quoted $200 for inner and outer reboot. My real concern is, after i get this done how long til the other side fails? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted June 12, 2011 Share Posted June 12, 2011 Have not had issues with OEM re-manufactured. Have installed many. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyShackleford Posted June 14, 2011 Share Posted June 14, 2011 When you get a rebuilt, you get both ends of the axle replaced. Not one. Both ends are identical. Outside boot tends to have a loose clamp from the factory and throws grease by around 40k miles. You paid $30 less and got 50% as much. Thats how scammed. Gotcha. I hope they weren't blowing smoke when the said the outer rarely fails - but I'll look for blowing out grease. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted June 14, 2011 Share Posted June 14, 2011 ^ Sorry. We see this sort of thing happen all the time. Inner band (small one) is the loose culprit. Can be tightened many times. Almost all LGT's lose grease from the inner band being loose. Tears to boot take longer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephejp Posted July 16, 2011 Share Posted July 16, 2011 I just did the job and can't seem to get the axle all the way into the trans it goes about 3/4 of the way in and stops no amount of wiggling seems to help any suggestions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 If it is in the correct orientation and nothing is obstructing it, use your feet. Mount the knuckle and rotor and use it to push. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 Jack up the lower ball joint so the axle is level. hit the outer end of the axle with a 2x4 and a 10lb sledge hammer. I have also had good luck by wrapping my left hand around the big metal hunk on the tranny end of the axle and hitting that hand with my right. That got my right axle to seat the last 1/4" a few weeks back 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingfisher Posted July 18, 2011 Share Posted July 18, 2011 I had the same problem. I slid under the car and grabbed the halfshaft where my arms were in a good position to get good leverage then worked it back and forth while pushing it back into the gearbox as hard as I good. It didn't take too long to get it that way. You just have to fiddle with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephejp Posted July 19, 2011 Share Posted July 19, 2011 thanks for all the answers I ended up getting out from under the car and giving a big shove on the green cap a pop and the axle went in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingfisher Posted July 19, 2011 Share Posted July 19, 2011 When all else fails, use brute force? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted July 19, 2011 Share Posted July 19, 2011 As my grandfather used to say "get a bigger hammer". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted July 24, 2011 Share Posted July 24, 2011 Using that approach, turn the rotor slightly while pushing and that should help as well. May be hung up on the front diff splines. Whatever you do, don't force it as you can rip your internal seal and that's a load more work to repair. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alfredbs Posted July 24, 2011 Share Posted July 24, 2011 well i just realized that my front drivers side cv boot just shit the bed on me and before getting a new one a friend of mine who knows nothing about awd vehicles said it was pointless to just change the boot in a way... Mind you I have no clicking at all, it just happened a day ago, ive prolly driven less then 40 miles on it after it busted.. My friend who is a mechanic said that I could realistically drive on it for atleast 6 months to a year and prolly longer if i had too... His logic is axles are very inexpensive and why not just wait until I have the money and replace the whole axle..... my brothers and sisters lend me your hand... give me some pros and cons to this madness.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted July 24, 2011 Share Posted July 24, 2011 Replace the boot and continue to drive it for a long time and enjoy better smelling air because once that starts throwing CV joint grease all over hot parts, it will really stink up the car. Easy fix. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 I fall into the "replace entire half shaft" group. Although I can not stand CV grease everywhere, so I would do it immediately. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 well i just realized that my front drivers side cv boot just shit the bed on me and before getting a new one a friend of mine who knows nothing about awd vehicles said it was pointless to just change the boot in a way... Mind you I have no clicking at all, it just happened a day ago, ive prolly driven less then 40 miles on it after it busted.. My friend who is a mechanic said that I could realistically drive on it for atleast 6 months to a year and prolly longer if i had too... His logic is axles are very inexpensive and why not just wait until I have the money and replace the whole axle..... my brothers and sisters lend me your hand... give me some pros and cons to this madness.... Because it will fail at the least opportune time. Remember the snow we had last January ? For a $80.00 part, replace it while the weather is nice. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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