Spark Plug Install Instructions

Whoa?!

Tsi, that is the shortest post you have ever posted.

I never bring it to a shop but I just couldn't get that last plug.....in the end maybe I should of tried harder

The passenger side rear plug is the hardest to get to. There's like 1 inch between the frame and the coil pack. I mean that... I don't know why everyone says the driver rear is the hardest. To get the passenger rear plug out, you have to feed the spark plug socket in, then the extension, then the wratchet, then back everything out till it's loose, then pull the wrench out while you have room, then unscrew the plug the rest of the way, then pull out the extension, then pull the plug out... And to unscrew the coil pack bolt you have to use your thumb and side of palm, it takes forever. I hate that plug.

Can someone take a picture of the black air pump with the cover on, on the driver side I would like to compare mine because the plastic screw I found in my throttle body looks like it could belong to that, I just want to be sure so when I talk to the shop that did the job I have all the evidence I need to show they made a mistake.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b425/the_3d_man/IMAG0423.jpg

 

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b425/the_3d_man/IMAG0426.jpg

Now that I think about it... It's entirely possible that's not that screw that is normally there... But hey... it works! (the cover will stay on just fine without a screw in there)

Since I haven't seen any pics (and I took some when I did my plugs) here is the process I went through to remove the air pump duct to get to the driver side plugs. (not that it matters since everyone here seems to have an '05)

 

Start by removing the cover. It pops on with a plastic clip and may or may not have a screw of some kind in the front.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b425/the_3d_man/Spark%20Plug%20Change/IMAG0349.jpg

 

I find that removing the air pump makes it easier to take the duct off. It's just three 10mm bolts and a plug.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b425/the_3d_man/Spark%20Plug%20Change/IMAG0351.jpg

 

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b425/the_3d_man/Spark%20Plug%20Change/IMAG0353.jpg

 

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b425/the_3d_man/Spark%20Plug%20Change/IMAG0354.jpg

 

See that clamp way down there? It's really easy to get it off if you have hose clamp pliers. (I can take a pic if anyone wants one)

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b425/the_3d_man/Spark%20Plug%20Change/IMAG0358.jpg

 

Note that there is a bolt holding the duct down. You can see the mounting point here on the pic below.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b425/the_3d_man/Spark%20Plug%20Change/IMAG0359.jpg

 

And there's the coil packs. Hope you have girly hands

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b425/the_3d_man/Spark%20Plug%20Change/IMAG0362.jpg

Edited March 19, 2011 by the_3d_man

Thank you for posting these much need pictures

sub

used this write up during my 60K this past weekend. Great write up, it was a big help.

Those rear plugs were a HUGE pain in the ass.

I use a short sparkplug socket, then a uninversal joint, then a 12" extention. you cant see the socket or the u-joint, but there is enough room to get it all out. Also invest in a 1/4"ratchet buddy, and grind down an old 12mm 1/4" socket. after you crack the bolts on the coilpack, you can use that and a couple fingers to remove the bolts.

I also take out the air box, and battery, and the stupid framerail heat guards. took me 1hour and ten mins total.

 

I'm going to try and do it in less than an hour next week as I'm going to colder plugs....

I did mine today as well. I removed the battery, airbox, and the secondary air assist pump housing. I did everything from above, except for disconnecting the coil pack plugs and the rear hose clamp on the air assist housing. The bolts on 3 of my coil packs were finger tight from the factory. The 180* rotation while removing suggestion worked perfectly. Driver's side plug removal was easy. New plugs went in just as easy with anti- seize applied. The passenger side was harder. Actually, just the passenger side rear. Had to take a break before I finally got that one in. Reinstalled the airbox, air assist pump body, battery and lower engine cover. Car fired right up! Job took me 3.5 hrs. I'm handy with tools, but am no pro. Car now idles more smoothly, reminds me of when it was new. Pictures are of the pass rear plug cavity, and plug close ups. Bad lighting, all of the plugs looked good with the typical white-ish color indicating a clean burn. Thanks to BoxerGT 2.5 for a great write up and to everyone else for their additional suggestions.

Edited May 9, 2011 by shadowsports

Can someone take a picture of the black air pump with the cover on, on the driver side I would like to compare mine because the plastic screw I found in my throttle body looks like it could belong to that, I just want to be sure so when I talk to the shop that did the job I have all the evidence I need to show they made a mistake.

 

I recognize that screw. Its a retention screw pop-it from the front airbox scoop. There are two.

Edited May 18, 2011 by shadowsports

Thanks to OP and the_3d_man for posting this write-up and the pics of the 07+ difference. I didn't take out the duct on my 08 though. I just pushed mine back

I red this title for my car manual then I check the spark plug wires..

 

Do you think these values ​​are normal ?

 

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y207/burcinhan/untitled-54.jpg

 

Left front spark

http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/5060/sam1416y.jpg

 

Left rear spark

http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/3562/sam1417t.jpg

 

Right front spark

http://img855.imageshack.us/img855/4073/sam1418.jpg

 

Right rear spark

http://img850.imageshack.us/img850/6600/sam1419z.jpg

 

Engine

http://img829.imageshack.us/img829/3825/sam1420y.jpg

I red this title for my car manual then I check the spark plug wires..

 

Do you think these values ​​are normal ?

With the given information it looks to me that they all look to be within the specification range indicated on the manual page you included.

I used this over the weekend and it was a lifesaver. Had a misfire in cylinder 3 and it turned out to be a cracked plug. Just wanted to say thanks for the write up... it was great.

Changed my timing belt, water pump, idlers, ac belt, ps and alternator belt, and spark plugs this weekend.

 

To make it easy to change the spark plugs, my mechanic buddy came up with an idea that may or may not have been mentioned yet. Please note that we had the air box removed, the battery removed, and the radiator/air fan assembly already removed to do the timing belt. Not sure if you really need to remove all this if you were only going to change the plugs only.

With the car already on ramps, he got under the car, removed the motor mount bolts, and jacked up the motor gently about 2 inches. This gave us all the room we needed to remove the coil packs and plugs, and to re-install. See the attached pictures showing the passenger side with the rear coil pack already removed.

Edited July 4, 2011 by drewk2

I did the spark plugs today. Everything went find until i broke the little tabs to the coil pack. Does anyone know where to get these little replacement connectors? or a new harness?

 

 

I've used the the_3d_man's pic for reference.

 

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b425/the_3d_man/Spark%20Plug%20Change/IMAG0362.jpg

This would appear to be easier with everything apart. I had planned to wait and do mine when I upgrade my turbo, UP, etc. But I've lost so much power in the past few months I'm thinking I should not wait and do the plugs sooner than I'll likely get to them if I wait. How much else would need to be disconnected if all I was doing was jacking the engine to make plug access easier?

 

Changed my timing belt, water pump, idlers, ac belt, ps and alternator belt, and spark plugs this weekend.

 

To make it easy to change the spark plugs, my mechanic buddy came up with an idea that may or may not have been mentioned yet.

With the car already on ramps, he got under the car, removed the motor mount bolts, and jacked up the motor gently about 2 inches. This gave us all the room we needed to remove the coil packs and plugs, and to re-install. See the attached pictures showing the passenger side with the rear coil pack already removed.

This would appear to be easier with everything apart. I had planned to wait and do mine when I upgrade my turbo, UP, etc. But I've lost so much power in the past few months I'm thinking I should not wait and do the plugs sooner than I'll likely get to them if I wait. How much else would need to be disconnected if all I was doing was jacking the engine to make plug access easier?

 

My mechanic friend is more of the expert, but he thought you could remove the motor mount bolts and jack up the engine slowly without removal of anything else. We slowly jacked up the driver side first at an angle, changed the driver side plugs, slowly lowered the jack....then moved the jack slightly under the passenger side and slowly jacked up the passenger side and did those plugs.

You definitely want to have another person for an extra set of eyes on everything when you are jacking it up to make sure you don't harm any hoses or electrical connections.

I did the spark plugs today. Everything went find until i broke the little tabs to the coil pack. Does anyone know where to get these little replacement connectors? or a new harness?

 

 

I've used the the_3d_man's pic for reference.

 

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b425/the_3d_man/Spark%20Plug%20Change/IMAG0362.jpg

 

Use zip ties until then, those can come loose in a blink of an eye without their clips.

I did zippy tied the broken one. It seem to hold just fine. Word of advice, don't remove the coil pack connectors. They will break!