5EAT Ask your Questions!?!

this is coming from nothing but my lack-of-knowledge, but did you check to see if it's shifted all the way into park? meaning, it might not have made it all the way there so it doesn't know it has to disengage the lock?

Fresh engine rebuild, but I must admit, I know nothing when it comes to the 5EATs.

 

First couple of trips up and down the block last night, it drove fine.

 

Let it sit for ~24hrs and tonight, it starts up and runs fine, but it won't shift from Park.

 

There's no feeback from the brake pedal, as is normally there to indicate a Park switch - Which wires/stuff should I check to resolve this?

 

try the manual override using the key in the slit next to the shifter

try the manual override using the key in the slit next to the shifter

 

Did that, but, it's needing that every time I shift out of Park.

 

I honestly don't know what to check to see what needs to be fixed/plugged in/whatever. I'm sure I'm not the only one who's encountered this -- What's the solution?

 

Where is the Neutral Safety switch? How do I discern its condition?

do your brake lights work ?

 

i don't think its neutral safety switch as then your car would not crank.

 

there is a switch on the brake pedal. and the solenoid on the shifter . check function of each of them.

 

check all fuses under the hood and at the knee kick panel

Yep...we discussed just swapping in a transmission. However, there are three things that hold me back.

 

1. Most used transmissions have at least 40,000 miles on them. I am at 17,000 and I know how I have treated it.

 

2. Even though it is the same transmission, there may have been upgrades year to year so I don't want to go backwards.

 

3. 2013 tribeca transmission has lower first second and third gears than the legacy. The 16% gain with just the diffs is more than enough and it would be cheaper overall.

 

There may be a hidden 4th reson as you mentioned. If I stick with my transmission, the ecu/tcm see the same ratios. I am guessing there is no electronic control beyond the transmission other than stability and traction control.

 

This is going to be a costly experiment. If we did entire transmission and diffs, we are looking at around $5000. $3000 transmission...unless we find cheaper.

 

I am waiting on pricing for brand new front and rear diffs from tribeca and an estimate of total cost. My guess is $1700 for front and rear and 8 hours of labor at $120. If I can do this for around $3000, I will have less concern over the wear of a used tranny and potential computer issues...fingers crossed.

 

A supercharger is not looking too bad but at nearly three times the price and some added weight.

 

ez subaru parts lists the rear ring and pinion for

 

ring & pinion Legacy/Outback; Auto Trans; 3.583 Ratio

 

MSRP Core ? Save Online Price

$390.56 $0.00 $62.49 $328.07

 

the front gear set i cant find on their site

ez subaru parts lists the rear ring and pinion for

 

ring & pinion Legacy/Outback; Auto Trans; 3.583 Ratio

 

MSRP Core ? Save Online Price

$390.56 $0.00 $62.49 $328.07

 

the front gear set i cant find on their site

 

I had posted this in the wrong thread..so here it goes....

 

 

I spoke with three master techs at three different dealerships WRT gear swap or diff swap.

 

1st...you will get a code if you swap gears and you will get a code if you swap diffs

2nd...we can not give you advice on anything that will put your car out of spec

3rd...you will not get a code if you swap the gears and you will not get a code if you swap diffs

 

Now to decide to go into uncharted territory or not...

I had posted this in the wrong thread..so here it goes....

 

 

I spoke with three master techs at three different dealerships WRT gear swap or diff swap.

 

1st...you will get a code if you swap gears and you will get a code if you swap diffs

2nd...we can not give you advice on anything that will put your car out of spec

3rd...you will not get a code if you swap the gears and you will not get a code if you swap diffs

 

Now to decide to go into uncharted territory or not...

 

So, it seems like the only constant is number 2?

We cannot give you advice on anything that would make your car faster than a sti

That being said, a track day has opened up all of a sudden and I signed up. The diff swap will have to wait until after August 24th...and will hopefully happen before September 21!!!!

anyone know how much fluid represents how much ATF dipstick? from L>F on the hot marks? or even from cold L/F to hot L/F?

 

who the hell designs a dipstick marking where the L/F is that close together on such a coarse measurement device?

Edited August 21, 2014 by snow05gtRI

about 1 L Or 1 quart if your murican

for which? from hot L to hot F? or from cold region to hot region?

 

I'm talking about the ATF dipstick, btw

your being way to picky .. the oil can be completely off the dipstick and it would still shift totally fine.

 

just dont overfill as it makes foam then it will shift bad.

i'm not attempting to exactly fill the thing, i'm looking for a coarse measurement. i.e. if i'm at the bottom of the stick (when hot), roughly how much does it take to get to the hot L/F mark so i can make sure it stays on the stick.

 

the answer is around a quart, maybe a little less on the safe side (based on my adding of fluid). I added a bit less than 3/4 of a quart and it went from just above the cold marks to right around the hot marks and now i'm happy. and all that matters is that i'm happy.

How does the MAF sensor contribute to shifting points in the 5EAT? Cleaned my MAF and no more hard shift into 3d using manual mode. Before, my RPM's would stay real low, and it would clunk into 3rd. Now, my RPM's stay real high (like that video of your VB on Youtube), and it's so damn smooth. Night and day, really. Any other sensors I need to watch out for?

Not sure about MAF but hard sifts for me were cleared by dropping and refilling the ATF a couple times. Doing two pan drops is only needed if you have never changed fluid or trust the recommended interval.

 

I was trusting subau's tech at the time. After reading and learning more found it's best to keep fresh fluid and drop out the clutch pack debris out of the system. That keeps the valve body working it's best so shifts are never sudden events. For me they were so hard it felt like we were rear ended.

The maf unfortunately has everything to do with shifting

 

The maf is used to calculate engine load and then engine load is sent to the tcu to determine line pressure and shift speed.

 

Normally the tcu adjusts when between 10-20% throttle position and adjusts for variances . It has a target shift time so it will scale the pressures and shift speeds.

 

If the maf gets dirty in a short amount of time the trans may not have time to adjust .

so, during a 3rd gear pull last night, i noticed the RPMs going up/down between 5k and 6k. not wildly, but enough for me to notice the tach drop a little and then come back up (or go up and then back down, I'm not sure). I did a second one just to be sure and it happened again.

 

is this the torque converter, or am I seeing slippage at high RPM?

Best answer your own question... Did you feel like it was slipping?

Meaning if it's swinging from 5K to 6K and back without forward momentum keeping up... Your slipping.

I couldn't really tell. I guess, to rephrase the question, would the torque converter still lock/unlock at that RPM?

 

It was a few hundred RPM jitter.

Fresh engine rebuild, but I must admit, I know nothing when it comes to the 5EATs.

 

First couple of trips up and down the block last night, it drove fine.

 

Let it sit for ~24hrs and tonight, it starts up and runs fine, but it won't shift from Park.

 

There's no feeback from the brake pedal, as is normally there to indicate a Park switch - Which wires/stuff should I check to resolve this?

 

 

Did you figure this out yet?

 

Do you want some things to check?

 

Let me know.

Did you figure this out yet?

 

Do you want some things to check?

 

Let me know.

 

Things to check:

 

Do you have stupid LED corner lights?

 

Did they blow a fuse(s)?

 

Solution:

 

Remove corner lights, replace for OEM bulb. Replace fuses. Start car, drive away!

So you had some fleabay ricer corner led lights that were causing your brake light circuit fuse to blow?

 

If so, that fuse being blown would definitely cause the interlock to not interlock properly.

So you had some fleabay ricer corner led lights that were causing your brake light circuit fuse to blow?

 

If so, that fuse being blown would definitely cause the interlock to not interlock properly.

 

Amazon "Samsung" LED 3157 (non-A) bulbs that, yes, blew the hazard, and brake fuses, causing the shiftlock solenoid to disengage and refuse to shift from park without the help of a screwdriver.

not sure if this has been answered on here because there are 46 pages in this thread but heres my question:

Ive read in many places that the 5mt tranny is only really safe up to around 300hp, I was wondering is this is referring to 300hp at the crank or to the wheels? and what about torque?

 

edit: sorry i just realized that i posted this question in the "5EAT" instead of the 5mt thread by accident

Edited August 31, 2014 by CrymesGT