98 Legacy 2.5GT slave cylinder

So my subaru had the clutch problem where the pedal would stay down at the floor.

 

After doing some research I found that was a somewhat common problem.

 

I went and picked up a kit my local Subaru dealership that had a new slave cylinder and a hose.

 

Part Numbers:

30620AA042

37251AC010

 

Is there a guide anywhere on how to install these? Can anyone give me any pointers?

 

If there is a walkthrough available at all I would love to use it, I havent been able to find one yet though.

I have a 99 LGT with the same problem and actually going to go fix it in about an hour or so and here is all the information i have.

 

Hope it helps.

 

Let me know if you cant view it.

 

The attachments are pdf files of a service manual for my 99.

 

 

PROCEDURE

 

To correct this condition you must replace the parts in the chart that

match your vehicle using the following procedure:

 

For Natural Aspiration models with hydraulic clutches

 

1) Remove the intake chamber from the backside of the intake manifold.

 

2) Remove the clutch hose and the clutch operating cylinder in this

procedure it is not necessary to remove the master cylinder, the

clutch pipe and bracket.

 

3) Replace the clutch hose and the clutch operating cylinder with new

parts as listed in the chart. Note that two pieces of gasket (P/N

114130151) used on the connector of the operating cylinder must be

replaced with new ones when replacing the clutch hose. Tightening

torque of the bolt is: 37 +/- 3 Nm (3.8 +/- 0.3 kgm) or 27 +/- 2 ft.

lbs.

 

4) Bolt the operating cylinder onto the transmission.

 

5) Add brake fluid.

 

6) Bleed the air from the system.

 

7) Install the intake chamber.

 

8) Check the following items:

 

a) Insure there is no leakage from the line, check whether fluid

leakage occurs after the clutch pedal has been fully depressed.

 

b) Check whether the clutch performs normally.

 

MSA5TCD99L133.pdf

 

MSA5TCD99L136.pdf

 

MSA5TCD99L138.pdf

one thing that will save you alot of time is when you go to dissconect the clutch hose from the clutch fuel line it is better to just dissconect the fuel line from the reserve tank

 

and remove the bracket off that is connected to the clutch hose (1 bolt)

 

then take the hose braket and fuel line out

 

take the old off and put the new on

 

then put everything back the way you took it out

 

 

once again hope this helps

yeah i had this problem....nearly got killed. Thanks Subaru.

I was told by my mechanic friend, after he looked at it, that it was the Master Cylinder that needs replacing. Does anyone have any thoughts on this? I looked at the master and It really does seem fucked, but then again I'm just getting into this whole working-on-your-own-car thing.

 

kkushner4474, thanks for all the steps, can I just follow those same steps with the master? I would also love you if you could get me the PDF's to replace the master from your manual. I tried to find a PDF manual for mine, but I have not been succesful thus far.

 

I'm going to try to install it tonight. Then I can finally go enjoy my new car

Here is the master cylinder PDF if you still need it

 

when I had this problem I started out with the slave cylinder just because it’s cheaper but if the master looks that bad then hey go for that

MSA5TCD99L137.pdf

MSA5TCD99L137.pdf

Hello all... neubie here about to purchase a MT 99 LGT. test drove it today and noticed that the clutch is stiff and it engages so close to the floor... is this normal for a hydraulic clutch system...

 

i pressed on the pedal and no resistance till close to the floor its stiff and about just an inch of play for it to disengage and engage the clutch...

 

does this mean the car needs a new clutch? the owner said that its the original clutch and it has 122K miles on the clock.

 

much appreciated

Originaly the clutch replacement is every 60K or so depends how you drive, if he never replaced a clutch then I would say so. I never experince that problem so I'm not 100% precent sure.