Brake dust shield

I'm at 79k miles with all original brakes, rotors, etc. Brake fluid was changed a couple years ago.

Every time I turn all the way to the left or right (forgot what one) if I am in a parking lot, and slowly hit the gas, I get a metal clanking noise coming from the brake dust shield on the front passenger side. It's been happening since I was under B2B before 36k miles, so the dealer has been tightening it for free. They said rust on the rotor is causing it and to get new rotors.

So I don't care about the noise, however a new problem seems to have come up. If I slowly stop then my brakes don't make noise and feel fine. If I have to make an emergency stop, or go from 50-0MPH quicker than usual, then I hear noise from that area, and can feel the pedal not feeling normal. The one day, I was in the country and didn't notice a stop sign, so I went from 50-0 to stop in time, quicker than in a normal course of driving/comfort. It made a noise from there, the pedal felt weird, and there was a burning smell from only the front passenger side rotor area. That was the only area that felt hotter than usual too. The driver side one didn't feel hot or smell. Could it be a caliper issue? Just because one stops fast doesn't mean it should have a burning smell. I've only had brake burning smells in vehicles over the past 10-15 years of driving if there was an issue with the brakes/brake system. I've driven in all kinds of environments too without any past issues (rural, suburban, Manhattan, etc).

Another example of the pedal feeling weird (it's not the ABS kicking in) is if I am in city traffic and go from 30-0, 30-0, 30-0 really quick because of traffic lights stopping me at every single one every block. Not quite a jack-rabbit type of aggressive stop and go, but getting there. It will make the noise from the passenger side front area too. If I am doing 30 and have time to slowly stop (like if I drove like a limo driver for passenger comfort), then it wouldn't make the noise or have the pedal feel weird.

I ordered new rotors and pads for the front and back tonight, but am going to take a trip before I can get them received/installed. It's time for new rotors on the front anyway (although there is still maybe 25% life), and I've never liked the stopping feel for this car, so I ordered some decent ones online. Is this a worry for now, or what is likely the problem?

I actually have a similar interaction between my rotor and dust shield on my front driver's side. When the area heats up, it begins to rub. The rubbing stops if the brakes are applied, and restarts when the brakes are released. Also, slowing from a high rate of speed to a more moderate speed (say, around 45 MPH) results in the car vibrating. I suspect that rust is also a possible cause, as I've had a garage recently tell me that it looks like my rotors are starting to widen a bit along the edge.

My plan of attack is to also replace my pads and rotors, and remove the dust shield. I'm contemplating picking up some Cadillac ATS Brembos for the front as detailed here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=251912

Not sure what I'll do for the rears. They're in better shape right now anyway, and I'd like to go with rear STI Brembos if possible.

I ended up buying Hawk HPS 5.0 pads with Centric premium rotors. Fronts and rears. Will have the fluid bled and changed too. I don't beat on the car but I don't drive like a grandpa either, since my metro area is over 1 million people and traffic can get heavy sometimes, and I have places to go.

I would also think if the pads are worn out now, ALL braking, regardless of force, would cause a noise? Like I said, if I take my time, there is no noise.

 

I would also think if the pads are worn out now, ALL braking, regardless of force, would cause a noise? Like I said, if I take my time, there is no noise.

Not necessarily. Pads can be worn enough to grind only under hard braking, softer braking won't always make noise.

Will I see a huge difference over the stock pads?

Not with the original HPS, but possibly with the newer HPS 5.0's.

HP+ pads provide significantly stronger initial bite, but you pay for it with some noise, quite a lot of dust, and a pretty serious appetite for your iron rotors.

Carbotech XP8 (actually these are entry level track pads) have similar feel and noise to HP+ but with less dusting and much less rotor wear. Their AX6 pads are probably better for most any street duty, but aren't enough for road course use so I haven't run them on my dual-purpose DD/track toy.

HP+ and XP8 pads really aren't intended for street duty but are streetable enough (adequate cold bite) if you can stand their downsides.

Norm

I got the 5.0s and will see how they are. Autoanything messed up my order and sent the wrong rear ones.

I'll see how the 5.0s are and if I don't like them, I'll get the regular HPS next time. I have spray that cleans the rims nicely. Spray it on cold, let it sit for one minute, then rinse.

I ordered new rotors and pads for the front and back tonight, but am going to take a trip before I can get them received/installed. It's time for new rotors on the front anyway (although there is still maybe 25% life), and I've never liked the stopping feel for this car, so I ordered some decent ones online. Is this a worry for now, or what is likely the problem?

Check the wheel bearings also when you are there. It can be an early sign of wheel bearing going out.

I got the Centric Premium rotors with Hawk HPS 5.0s installed yesterday. Night and day feel. Car stops so quick now. The speedometer needle just plummets. I worry I'll get rear ended again though by a vehicle that can't stop as quick.

Weird how my rear pads were shot, but the fronts still had some life to them. I always thought the fronts did more work?

They do, or at least they do when all you're doing is stopping. But there is no requirement for front and rear pads to wear out at similar rates (and it may well depend on how hard you usually use the brakes . . . let alone that traction control and stability control systems may work the rear brakes more often).

Norm

I had an issue years back with an RX7. I started smelling burning brakes. Checked all the wheels after making several hard stops to test it, one wheel was too hot to touch. The caliper had started to freeze up so it would release fully after the brakes were applied, or so I thought. Turned out I was right. The damn mechanics at the dealership didn't know how to test for a sticking caliper so I went to the dealer and showed them. Apply the brakes hard, then remove the wheel and compare how it released from clamping the disk compared to the unaffected wheels.

Rebuilt caliper solved the problem. Even installed it myself since I had no confidence in the dealer mechs. Not a difficult thing to do even if you're not much of a mechanic. The hardest part was bleeding the brakes, and that wasn't that difficult.

They do, or at least they do when all you're doing is stopping. But there is no requirement for front and rear pads to wear out at similar rates (and it may well depend on how hard you usually use the brakes . . . let alone that traction control and stability control systems may work the rear brakes more often).

 

 

Norm

We had a 2000 Jetta that strangely went through rear OEM pads nearly twice as fast as the front pads. Never could figure that one out. Very basic car. Can't remember if it had anti lock brakes but certainly no other electronic drive aids.

Will these pads likely wear quick since they seem to be more of a track pad than an every day driver pad?

I also notice rust or whatever already forming on the surface area of the rotor. It rained today. When I would have it in drive and stopped, and then let my foot off the brake or hit the brake when I'm stopped (back and forth), it would make that kind of grumble type of noise. Same noise when I didn't drive the car for a few days and rust developed on the rotor. Is that normal already? I drove around in city traffic for 25 mins and it went away.