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Wilwood 4-pot caliper kit


Th3Franz

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  • 3 weeks later...

More pictures.

1. Special 10 in. long end to end brake line. Probably could have used a straight, but I opted for a 45 deg. fitting on the end to fit the 90 degree NPT to 3AN fitting on the caliper.

 

2. Shot of the top of the bracket.

 

3. Brake pads line up nicely with the outer edge of the rotor. You can see the 90 degree brake line fitting the Wilwood kit comes with.

 

4. Clears stock wheels no problem. damn, I should have gone even bigger. :lol: I'd say the brake bias of this Dynapro kit matches nicely with the brakeswap 4 piston front kit with stock size rotors. Oh, and the overall pedal feel is amazing with fixed calipers all around.

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Edited by Th3Franz
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th3franz, I have a couple of questions for you.

 

If you had gone bigger, what caliper would you have choose?

Do you have a detailed parts list, you would be willing to share?

How do able is this setup?

How much do you have invested into the rear brakes?

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This is the Dynapro rear kit I bought. It's for the 02-05 WRX. Wilwood # 140-7006

The other option is to get the Forged narrow superlite rear kit, Wilwood # 140-12878.

 

I chose the Dynapro to maintain front brake bias with the Wilwood 4 piston caliper with stock size rotor. If I upgrade the front to a true BBK 6 pot, then I would have gone with the larger Superlite kit.

 

I bought the Dynapro kit from Eric at brakeswap for around $900 with the WRX line kit. The Superlite is also nearly double that, around $1600. I haven't gotten the bill from my mechanic yet who did the rear brake install, but I think it will be a few hours of labor for grinding the "ears", removing the dust shields, and machining the caliper to fit the allen head machine screws that sit flush. I worked with him on the install and figuring it out.

 

I don't have a detailed parts list at this time, but the main thing is finding a company that can provide the 10 in long 3AN brake lines to work with the kit. I had mine done by a local race shop (Pegasus Auto Racing), so you could order lines from them also. They are not technically "DOT" but they pressure test each line they make and they are great quality, so I trust the lines.

 

This setup is doable if you have a good grinder and access to a drill press. You need the drill press to countersink the holes on the caliper to fit the flat head allen screw so that it clears the upper part of the knuckle. With the larger Superlite kit, maybe the extra .75" diameter will help it clear, but I doubt it.

 

So, total invested in just parts for the rear brake kit is $900 for the kit + $60 for the custom lines + $20 for additional hardware. Figure 3 hours or so in labor if you have all the tools available.

 

If there's interest in a group buy, maybe we could order a bunch of kits, do the machining (we'd have to open the boxes), and then send them out. If I can find a source of "DOT-approved" brake lines with the correct length, then it would be pretty easy. Eric and I were trying to work with Technafit on this but they weren't being very responsive.

Edited by Th3Franz
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If they are DOT approved, then the supplier has gone through the process to have the DOT certify the product and they would be able to put the yellow "DOT" tags on them. I think it's just paperwork. As long as the lines are tested and quality made, I don't see an issue with non DOT approved lines.

 

We can't run standard brake lines because you need to have a 3AN end on one side to use the NPT to 3AN fitting the Wilwood caliper comes with. An alternative is to rethread the hole on the caliper to accept the banjo connection, but I didn't want to do this. The WRX lines are 14 in. long, so they are way too long for the Legacy.

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  • 3 weeks later...

The3Franz, nice work there!

 

 

I was assembling parts for the same project, and ultimately left it with FW Motorsports in Rocklin, CA. They used a right-angle fitting as well, and had some trouble getting an adaptor to join at the OEM hoses. Also, they used the Legacy's own backing plates rather than the Impreza plates that I had machined per Wilwood's instruction.

 

 

For authenticity - or rather, lack thereof! - I bought caliper decals from eBay and applied them both front and rear.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...
So you lose the dust plates for the front brakes?

 

Well, they're there for a reason, so I'll need a plan B.

 

they keep crap out of the back of your rotors, and they help with cooling. You can modify them to a smaller size. If you need more cooling, Pegasus sells connectors to allow brake cooling hose to attach to the plates.

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So I've had this Wilwood kit for a couple of year, and it does work great. However, I have a problem and I'm not exactly sure how to solve it. Heat!

 

I've got the Willwood kit up front and Legacy GT brakes in the rear. I drive the car pretty hard at the track. I've been running in the advanced group and the last set of front rotors only lasted 4 days on the track. There is no issue with the rear setup.

 

I just put a new set on and did track sessions and micro cracks were starting to form. I'm running Hawk DTC 60 pads and DBA Rotors. I also have RooDucts cooling ducts (photos of that setup earlier in this thread).

 

I'm looking for what I can change? I almost think it's the reduced contact patch this caliper has on the rotor makes the rotor really heat up super hot and when it cools the cracks start.

 

Do I get a bigger BBK like Stop Tech, or is it just the combination of pads / rotors?

 

I attached a picture of one of my front rotors after 4 track days (approx 7 hours on track)

rotor.thumb.jpg.054dfcc56ccfebc36e70fea98e0d0017.jpg

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Have you checked your calipers to make sure the pistons are retracting. IIRC, there's no dust seals on the WW, and they're designed to be rebuilt after a few hard track days, so, in your case, a rebuild may be in order. Especially if you're going through pads and microcracking the rotors.
- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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So I've had this Wilwood kit for a couple of year, and it does work great. However, I have a problem and I'm not exactly sure how to solve it. Heat!

 

I've got the Willwood kit up front and Legacy GT brakes in the rear. I drive the car pretty hard at the track. I've been running in the advanced group and the last set of front rotors only lasted 4 days on the track. There is no issue with the rear setup.

 

I just put a new set on and did track sessions and micro cracks were starting to form. I'm running Hawk DTC 60 pads and DBA Rotors. I also have RooDucts cooling ducts (photos of that setup earlier in this thread).

 

I'm looking for what I can change? I almost think it's the reduced contact patch this caliper has on the rotor makes the rotor really heat up super hot and when it cools the cracks start.

 

Do I get a bigger BBK like Stop Tech, or is it just the combination of pads / rotors?

 

I attached a picture of one of my front rotors after 4 track days (approx 7 hours on track)

 

very interesting. My bet was on the quality of rotor itself but since the same issue goes on with DBAs maybe it is in fact inefficient use of rotor space by WWs. Heat plus actual clamping stress only on the upper part of the rotor may in fact produce those cracks.

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  • 3 weeks later...

So literally the day after I posted my problem, a set of 332mm StopTechs came up for sale for $500, so I jumped on those.

 

Not exactly sure how to check if the calipers were retracting, but a test of feeling the wheel for heat after normal street driving resulted in front and rear feeling about the same. I'd expect wheel to be really hot if they were dragging the whole time I was driving.

 

Since I swapped over to the StopTechs, I'll be selling my old Willwood kit.

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