How To: Replace/Rebuild torn CV boot and/or Axle

You need to remove only the lower ball joint not the pinch bolt.

 

the axle will nut come out with only removing the hub.

 

I think somone removed the tierod end and something else a few years back to get the axle out.

 

I find it can be hard to get the LCA down low enough to get the spindle back in it, I have stiffer bushings installed, that may be my issue.

 

I find a impact gun works best to remove the lower ball joint nut. Make sure you get all the cotter pin out.

 

Use a small impact gun to install the nut, low torque.

 

PB Blaster will help things come a part.

 

Also use anti sieze compound on all the threads.

 

I have reused the axle nut.

 

I like to get axles and things from my local parts guy. If there's a issue he can fix it right there, not have to ship it back somewhere.

 

 

Do one side at a time. Jack up ons side at atime, the fluid will stay in the tranny when you pull out the axle.

 

Also you want to use a reman axle. Stay away from 100% new axles.

Once your remove the clamp bolt holding the ball joint in the housing cup (not the end with the castle nut) use a big pry bar 3-4' long, placed across the LCA, with the distant end underneath the LCA bushing mount, and pull down hard on the grip end.

 

You may have to bounce a bit to get it started moving in its cup, but once you get it moving continue downward pressure until it pops free. Lube the cup, the ball joint and the retaining clamp bolt with never seize before reinstalling.

Oh I hit the LCA at the ball joint with a 5lb hammer. Hint, put the nut back on the stud before you hit the LAC. It may take a few hits but that noramlly pop's it free.

if you have a PA car with big miles like that, invest the $10-15 in a diamond wedge from any home improvement store; with a decent sledge behind it, it will very likely save you much pain in knocking that lbj free vs. any conventional wedge/pry attempt. and as max said, some kind of impact and PBB are paramount.

i've also reused the axle nut -- so long as you can re-crimp it.

good luck.

If you are going after the LCA, you need to remove the stabilizer bar/end links to be able to move it down enough.

 

There are three ways to go:

1) Pinch bolt and pry as others have said

2) Ball Joint Spindle and pry as others have mentioned

3) Strut bolts (2). I'm sure others have mentioned that in this thread. Make the upper bolt head with the line on it to make sure you keep your alignment. This is the least risky if you are having issues with the LBJ.

Has anyone ever done this before? How is the repair holding up or would the $ be more worth spent on buying a new axle?

I think a lot of us have replaced axles with remanufactured items or rebooted with great success... Hence the thread?

Sorry if this is already in this thread somewhere -- I searched but didn't see it.

 

Can the outer joint be disassembled for cleaning? I have it off of the axle already, but I don't see any way to take the balls and cage apart. If it is possible, can someone please post a brief explanation?

 

If not, how do I get it clean before rebooting?

 

By the way, this is for a 2002 Legacy L.

Can the outer joint be disassembled for cleaning?

If not, how do I get it clean before rebooting?

 

I'll answer my own question.

 

I decided to check my service manual. (Usually I find these internet threads much more helpful than the manual, so I hadn't even opened it while doing the job.) The manual says that the outer joint is an unserviceable part. It said to just use solvent and compressed air to clean it out as much as possible. So I've done that, and it is pretty clean now.

 

After reading the manual, though, I'm concerned about something else now. It says to mark the alignment of the bearings (inner boot) before removing them from the green housing. I didn't do that, and they're all already out, cleaned, and ready to be repacked. Will bad things happen since I didn't align those? I really don't see any difference in them, so I don't see any way to go back and correct this.

I'll answer my own question.

After reading the manual, though, I'm concerned about something else now. It says to mark the alignment of the bearings (inner boot) before removing them from the green housing. I didn't do that, and they're all already out, cleaned, and ready to be repacked. Will bad things happen since I didn't align those? I really don't see any difference in them, so I don't see any way to go back and correct this.

 

Apparently the answer to this is Yes, it will cause problems. After reinstalling the axle, the steering makes an awful sound.

 

I'm tired of fighting with this stupid axle... I'm just going to bite the bullet and pay a shop to do it. These things are made to sound so simple on these forums, but when you actually start to do it it's just one snag after another.

 

Anyway, it doesn't appear that anybody actually follows this thread anymore, but I figured I'd post my results just in case someone in the future runs into the same thing.

You asked a question about a 2002 when 99.99% of parties subscribed to this thread own 05-09 LGT's. Different cars with different transmissions and different axles. Your questions are better posed in the 3rd gen specific forum.

You asked a question about a 2002 when 99.99% of parties subscribed to this thread own 05-09 LGT's. Different cars with different transmissions and different axles. Your questions are better posed in the 3rd gen specific forum.

 

Good to know. I was just looking at the path which is

Subaru Legacy Forums > Walkthroughs > Basic Operation & Maintenance

 

I didn't know it was specific to GTs. Thanks.

I suppose at this point in time it could be somewhat confusing. But the site is legacygt.com (even the site logo is a 4th gen). The site has grown over the years to include more Legacys, but the majority of members are still 4th gen owners.

Can someone tell me what the little spring like o-ring (not the snap ring) is that fell out when I removed my front drive axle? Its about the diameter of the splined axle end but I cant tell how it goes back into the diff housing.

You sir lost an axle seal. The "spring" is what keeps the tension on the seal. Time to replace the seal with the axle.

^ Thanks for the quick reply.

 

I am searching for more info on the removal/install and will pick up some seals later today.

 

What sucks is that I already replaced the drivers side axle and if I am going through this process for the passenger side I might as well replace the seal on the drivers.

Just did the driver's side on my 2006 5MT, with 182K. I removed the nut off the tie rod end, and then the two strut tower bolts. Since I just replaced the wheel bearing, hub, and steering knuckle about 10K ago, I felt most most comfortable with the strut tower. Marked the position of the camber bolt. I had both front wheels in the air, and didn't lose any tranny oil. Used a rebuilt axle shaft from autozone, $69.00 after core trade, and that came with a new axle nut. Overall, not too bad, and everything came out and apart pretty easily. I'm sure that won't be the case on the other side whenever that goes, since it's all completely original over there. When I did the new bearing and hub 10K ago, the axle was much harder to get out of the hub, and the hub was literally frozen into the steering knuckle. Made me long for VW days when nothing lasted long enough to rust or seize together.

I ended up getting a seal puller and driver set before starting the reseal of the axle. That made the whole process much easier and the old was out and the new went in very easily.

 

Just did the driver's side on my 2006 5MT, with 182K. I removed the nut off the tie rod end, and then the two strut tower bolts. Since I just replaced the wheel bearing, hub, and steering knuckle about 10K ago, I felt most most comfortable with the strut tower. Marked the position of the camber bolt. I had both front wheels in the air, and didn't lose any tranny oil. Used a rebuilt axle shaft from autozone, $69.00 after core trade, and that came with a new axle nut. Overall, not too bad, and everything came out and apart pretty easily. I'm sure that won't be the case on the other side whenever that goes, since it's all completely original over there. When I did the new bearing and hub 10K ago, the axle was much harder to get out of the hub, and the hub was literally frozen into the steering knuckle. Made me long for VW days when nothing lasted long enough to rust or seize together.

 

Regarding the strut bolts, I also find marking and removing them a timesaver.

Just wanted to jump in and say that I replaced both front axles on my wife's 2.5i with the rebuilt Autozone 7366 units. A month later they are still perfect. Thanks for the heads-up on those - I almost bought the much pricier OEM rebuilds.

I did my 06's inner front passenger boot this past weekend, and a couple notes for anyone tackling it for the first time.

 

• Dont't rush! If you notice a boot is torn, it's not going to explode. Get whatever parts and tools you'll need a few days beforehand.

 

• Spray whatever bolts you are taking off with your penetrating oil of choice a few days prior to the job. I guess those not in the rust belt don't need to worry as much, but my car living in PA since it was new has taken it's toll on suspension/drivetrain nuts and bolts.
  

 

• Having two people helps. I asked for the diff/axle seal as well as all the other parts, but when I picked up the parts(after the parts dept was closed), no seal. They did not have it in stock so I took my chances using the stocker. So, as I was taking the axle out and putting it back in, I had my wife hold it from the outside as straight as possible. Not sure if it helped, but no leaks. Another person also helps when yanking the hub assembly out of the way and putting it back when removing and installing the axle.

 

• I popped the axle out with just a big screw driver and I popped it back in pushing on the green cup and my wife pushing slightly on the end of the axle while keeping it straight

 

• I made the mistake of tightening the small end band on the boot when the boot was not in the groove of the axle(it was past it). After the axle was on the car, the boot was stretched. When I realized what I did and pushed the boot into the groove, the band was no longer tight. So instead of messing with more bands while the axle was in the car, I just grabbed so DEI stainless steel locking bands used for header wrap and such. No problems after 200 miles, no vibration, no seepage. How long it will last I'm not sure, but I keep an eye on things pretty good so I'll keep checking. I got a pack of 4 for like $9.00 or something, it was worth a shot.

 

As far as aftermarket axle vs rebooting the OEM, I am definitely on the side of rebooting the OEM. I replaced an axle in one of my older Legacies with an aftermarket one and always had a very slight vibration from the day I replaced it. That was years ago and I'm sure aftermarket stuff has gotten better or maybe I just got a bad one, but whatever, I'll stick with OEM.

 

The OEM axle and boots lasted 110,000 miles so to me, it's worth putting OEM back on. I know guys say "what about aftermarket exhausts and turbos and suspension, etc." and I would say when I buy that stuff, longevity is not the primary reason for me buying it. If it happens to last 100,000 miles, that's a bonus, but I'm buying that aftermarket parts for performance. This is not to say OEM doesn't fail prematurely but I'll take my chances with OEM vs aftermarket. Similar to fuel pumps. If and when I upgrade, I would prefer a Supra(1020 Denso) pump simply because they are quiet and made to last a long time as they are an OEM part. Just personal preference.

 

Other than that, the original walk through as well as all the tips along the way were great!

Glad to hear it went well. FWIW, my right front axle is still in the car at 194,000+ miles. The left front has been replaced 3 times.

Ordering two boots (inner and outer) and the 4 clamps for my passenger front axle as I type. I also ordered a new axle nut and transmission/axle seal just in case.

 

I have a quart of Extra-S hanging out in my garage for any that I lose during the process.

 

Have all of you guys used the Subaru grease or do you have stuff on hand that you like to use? I have some (a tub) Mobil 1 "high grease" that I was planning on using... :shrug:

 

I didn't read all 550 replies... any tips or tricks? I figure I could reboot both sides by just taking one side apart... take apart the inner/green cup side, cut off both boots, slide the outer boot down the shaft, pack some grease, clamp, done.

CV Axle grease or a molybdenum grease should work. I'm not sure which grease is OEM. I just used what came in the Beck Arnley kit from Rock Auto. Edited August 19, 2014 by compsurge

Same front passenger side boot torn again after almost 5 years....not too bad Need to order parts and do this all over again

 

Just want to share my experience on this.

 

I hit a snag trying to get the axle to come off from the tranny. When I gave it a hard tug I pulled the axle and the bearings leaving the green cup in the tranny Weird thing is I was able to pull the cup out with my hand with no effort at all I obviously mangled the retaining clip so I spent a good hour bending it to shape. So if you are going to order the parts to get this job done, I suggest that you order PN 28333AG000 as you'll never know what will happen.

 

Another issue I had was with tightening the smaller band because there was not enough lead to wrap it in the tool . I ended up using pliers to pull the band and tightening it.

 

Other than those 2, everything went as described in this thread. I just hope my retaining clip would hold inside the cup.