David E Posted March 30, 2013 Share Posted March 30, 2013 Anyone know which wires will light up the gauge cluster? I am working on a gauge led lighting mod and would like to be able to power up the cluster before putting it back in the car. 2nd question - is there an easier way to get the cluster out? It seems a real pain to wiggle the cluster out between the dash and steering wheel. I've already punched one hole in the dash covering...Drop the steering column? Attached pics of what I have done so far. Took out all the gauges, removed the flexible circuit board, taped off all the holes, then spray painted with "chrome" paint. It is a LOT shinier than the photos look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemingway Posted March 30, 2013 Share Posted March 30, 2013 Yes, it is a PITA to wiggle it out ... definitely drop the steering column as low as it will go. As far as wiring, there are three large wiring harness clips on the back topside and one smaller wiring harness clip in the back center. They have short lengths so you have to hook them up when the gauge cluster is almost slotted back into the dash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David E Posted March 30, 2013 Author Share Posted March 30, 2013 Yeah, but I bought a cluster off EBay that came with all the plug ins and wiring pigtails. If I knew which wires it would be easy in this case to use alligator leads. Even with the steering wheel down as low as it will go it's a pain. How much trouble to drop the whole steering column an inch or two? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemingway Posted March 30, 2013 Share Posted March 30, 2013 Not sure ... you could remove the steering column cover relatively easily. That should buy you an extra inch or so of wiggle room. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zues Marine Posted March 30, 2013 Share Posted March 30, 2013 2 12mm bolts holding up the steering column http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/second-gen-factory-service-manuals-literature-186552.html fsm has a diagram of all the things you need^ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stang70Fastback Posted March 30, 2013 Share Posted March 30, 2013 Is this a second gen cluster? Gauge layout looks right, as do the indicators at the top, but I'm curious as to why there are what appear to be gear selector indicator slots down the center... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zues Marine Posted March 30, 2013 Share Posted March 30, 2013 page 33-34 of this link has the diagram for the gauges Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevenva Posted March 31, 2013 Share Posted March 31, 2013 Here is the answer to the wire question. This is a 96 cluster, Should be similar. (By the way, Silver is not the best backing color choice. Bright white would actually provide better results). RIP 96 Legacy 2.2 4EAT lost reverse @ 374,000 miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevenva Posted March 31, 2013 Share Posted March 31, 2013 Just an afterthought. Make damn sure that silver paint you used is NOT aluminized (or conductive in any way). All of the gauges electrical contacts are done by the mounting screws. The 3 empty holes on this tach are for power and signal. Shorting them would suck royally. Mods like these can be fun. I recently did mine on this link. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/cold-cathode-tubes-cluster-198512.html?t=198512&highlight=cold+cathode RIP 96 Legacy 2.2 4EAT lost reverse @ 374,000 miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David E Posted March 31, 2013 Author Share Posted March 31, 2013 Good thought on the paint being conductive. I will definitely check that. On the power issue I was hoping to use the plugs w/pigtails from my EBay purchase to supply power, but even with looking at the FSM, I'm still not sure. I will take a look at tracing the circuits back to the plugs and see what that shows me. Thanks for everyone's help & ideas. Checked the paint and it is non-conductive. Used my meter to trace out the connections for the illumination bulbs. They all connect to the top left connector pins 3 & 4 as viewed from the back - pics below. Will reinstall all the bulbs and test when I have a chance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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