Group 47 battery in a 97 Outback ????

I have a brand new group 47 battery and I was wondering if a Group 47 battery in a 97 Outback.

 

I don't feel like removing the old battery to check and if it doesn't fit I'll sell it.

 

It was for a car that I just sent to the bones yard. Never installed, never used and it would be nice if it fit.

I have a group 43 in mine, with 590 cranking amps, the group 47 has the posts in the same place, and Carquest says they have 600 cranking amps. More amps is generally better, so if it fits in the hole...

what car did it fit, come out of?

 

i put a toyota avalon battery in my 97 lego,

it was tight but the hood closed.

It was never installed but it was meant to go into my 1990 Jag xj6. Trying to measure the battery that is installed and comparing it to the group 47, I think the group 47 is smaller. The CA is 745 / CCA is 600 which is higher than the installed battery.

 

what car did it fit, come out of?

 

i put a toyota avalon battery in my 97 lego,

it was tight but the hood closed.

I placed the battery in the tray and it fit BUT ----

 

On the new battery the posts are recessed a bit, with three walls around it. The old battery has the posts sitting on the very top of the battery. The cable heads fit into the recessed style posts but tightening the cable heads isn't as easy. Plus the battery is shorter and the tray sits sides above the battery posts, therefore the cables need to go in from the back.

 

I decided it wasn't worth the hassle.

i understand you reluctance to deal with the differences.

but lets be clear,

it is just an electrical connection.

a pretty high AMP electrical connection,

but just an electrical connection none the less.

 

find some kind of ''screw post'' to ''standard post'' adapter,

and then figure a way to BOLT the screw post adapters to the ''recessed'' battery posts.

if you do not drill TOO deep,

you can drill and tap the battery posts.

i would use both a dielectric grease on all 6 connections,

but i would then use a spray to coat them, (parts store)

in order to prevent corrosion.

 

more connections points means more weak points, corrosion points.

True true true.

 

It wasn't that I couldn't do it or it wouldn't work. Some of it was my reluctance for removal in the future. The cable heads that exit now, allow me to use a 100 mm socket wrench, quick removal and if in the future a good amount of torque could be applied.

 

The new way would mean using an open ended wrench, slower removal and in the future if needed less torque could be applied.

 

Since the current battery is happy and strong, I couldn't find a reason to do it. It is the same type that was on my old jag and on that car I had to use the open end wrench method to put the cable heads onto the posts. So it wouldn't be a different application.

 

I gave the battery a good charge and it is sitting on a piece of wood (not the ground). It did take a while to give a 100% charge. I am a believer of charging batteries so that the alternator doesn't have to work hard at charging it.

 

The other side is that I could sell the new $95 at Sams Club battery and quickly get $45. Even Craigslist people would pay 50% of the price for a new battery. Well????? Let me take that back, if I were asking $45 the first words out of a CL buyer would be , "what is the lowest price you'll take." Ha ha!

 

Probably the day I would sell the new battery the battery in the car would die. Whoever installed the battery didn't remove the punch out numbers for the date of install so I'm not sure about the age of the battery.

i understand you reluctance to deal with the differences.

but lets be clear,

it is just an electrical connection.

a pretty high AMP electrical connection,

but just an electrical connection none the less.

 

find some kind of ''screw post'' to ''standard post'' adapter,

and then figure a way to BOLT the screw post adapters to the ''recessed'' battery posts.

if you do not drill TOO deep,

you can drill and tap the battery posts.

i would use both a dielectric grease on all 6 connections,

but i would then use a spray to coat them, (parts store)

in order to prevent corrosion.

 

more connections points means more weak points, corrosion points.