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Just another misfire/rough idle thread...


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I noticed somthing very interesting from data mapping today on my way to and from work, the absolute tps % never exceeded 78% and also never dropped lower then 14% even at idle. Does anyone know the actual normal? I read other people have issues with tps and getting the same absolute % reading, if that's the case I may have just answered all of my problems.....
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I'm pretty sure it'll never be at 0%, even at idle, because the ECU will always be giving the motor air and fuel. Even when you pedal-to-the-metal it doesn't show 100 %?

Before you spend money on a new sensor I'd try to find somebody with a compatable car who's willing to swap sensors eith you for 2 minutes.

While we're on the topic of logging... have you heard of BtSsm?

 

Sent from inner space.

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I actually just heard of it today and was doing the research, seems like it's worth every penny as I'm an android user. Yea on this forum there was another write up about tps, I believe idle is 5%, but wanna get stock specs. Just messing around I pulled the intercooler off and played with the throttle body, manual opening it all the way still only read 81% on ecm, and forcing all the way closed only 11%, it could make sensense if the send or is bad. But now after messing with the throttle body and unplugging it, as well as the petal, I have a constant code for that, that can't be cleared, and pressing the petal doesn't do anything (no throttle body control). Hmmm?
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If you disconnect your throttle body and look inside the connectors, are any pins bent or mashed down?
BtSsm - Android app/Bluetooth adapter. LV, logging, gauges and more. For 05-14 Legacy (GT, 2.5, 3.0, 3.6), 02-14 WRX, 04-14 STi, 04-14 FXT, 05-09 OBXT
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Nope made sure of that, disassembled everything again last night and cleaned the throttle body and electronic contacts on the pedal assembly, all while having the battery disconnected for a few hours. That did the trick, now have control of the throttle body again and no tb/pedaal codes. Still reading 16% closed and 78% wot
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Good lord you stay the course!!! I would have pulled the motor by now just because it would have annoyed me so terribly. With all the work you've done, don't be scared of pulling the motor, sounds like it would be easy for you. Once you've done it once or twice it can be done literally in about two hours. Once out you can pull the heads and have the valves checked/refreshed and inspect the pistons if need be.

 

If it is a burned valve you could pull the motor, send the heads off to be redone and have it back in the car in very little time. So much better than chasing down a ghost. :)

 

And while you are at it you could do the things that are so annoying to do while in the car, like changing plugs, changing valve cover gaskets, oil pan, the oil filter o-ring, etc.

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Good lord you stay the course!!! I would have pulled the motor by now just because it would have annoyed me so terribly. With all the work you've done, don't be scared of pulling the motor, sounds like it would be easy for you. Once you've done it once or twice it can be done literally in about two hours. Once out you can pull the heads and have the valves checked/refreshed and inspect the pistons if need be.

 

If it is a burned valve you could pull the motor, send the heads off to be redone and have it back in the car in very little time. So much better than chasing down a ghost. :)

 

And while you are at it you could do the things that are so annoying to do while in the car, like changing plugs, changing valve cover gaskets, oil pan, the oil filter o-ring, etc.

 

:whore: :whore:

 

 

:hide:

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Haha, yea the only issue is I refuse to pull the engine in a driveway and that's all I got right now, no garage unfortunately. I ordered a throttle body, and I'm hoping that is the issue, if not I will continue with leak down and compression test, which would also probably be a lot easier with the engine pulled..
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All in good time... all in good time. My wife and I will be out of debt (excluding the house) around Christmas, so my plan is to save up for a full-bore (get it?) #ynansb project next spring/summer.

 

Thanks for the words of encouragement. This car was supposed to be a reliable replacement for my dying DD and it's grown into a project that's a little bigger than what I thought I was signing up for. It's been fun though and I'm happy for everything I've learned along the way.

Edited by StkmltS
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  • 3 weeks later...

I just finished changing my timing belt, water pump, thermostat, and pulleys. I gave myself a little break from my general frustration with the car by painting the TB cover. Thoughts?

 

The battery hasn't been connected for about a week and its refusing to start and showing the "ER IU" error again. Maybe when it isn't connected for a long period of time the IU fully drains and needs a little time to juice back up.

 

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/05/91e5e03f4eb751c2ac217eb83987e7e7.jpg

 

Sent from inner space.

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Was the battery disconnected from the car for a week? If yes, voltage should not have dropped that much, unless it was already low to begin with?

FWIW, this year when I worked on fixing my valve clearance issue, I took out the battery from the engine bay and did not use it for probably a good two months. When I plugged it back, car started right up. Battery is three years old.

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Was the battery disconnected from the car for a week? If yes, voltage should not have dropped that much, unless it was already low to begin with?

FWIW, this year when I worked on fixing my valve clearance issue, I took out the battery from the engine bay and did not use it for probably a good two months. When I plugged it back, car started right up. Battery is three years old.

I left the battery in the car but the negative terminal was disconnected the whole time.

 

After charging it overnight I still had to jump it this morning. It didn't even have enough power for the key fob to unlock the car. When I got to work and locked the car the alarm chirp was barely audible. I'm gonna take it back to Pep Boys and have it tested and hopefully replaced. There's no reason a 1-year old Bosch battery should act like this.

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Every once in a while life hands you humbling situations to keep you grounded.

The negative lead connecting to the battery was dirty. 'Er IU'/Voltage/starting problem resolved.

 

I think I'm going to have my heads inspected/machined/cleaned/rebuilt as a separate project independent of getting a new SB. If my a bad valve is causing my misfire then my problem would be solved and I'd be a happy camper. If I still end up needing a full build then who cares, the heads would have gotten rebuilt anyways. Other than a catastrophic turbo failure I don't see any reason not to just do the heads. The best part is that it'll be easier to get my wife to sign off on it (because less $$$) , AND I can get my heads done in about 1/3 of the time It'll would take me to save up for a new block.

 

This weekend I found out my friend has an '09 LGT that appears to be stage 2. The previous owner had all of the work done and my friend isn't very clear about what's been done to it. Driving it was a baaaaad idea because now mine feels so slow. I'm dying to see what my car would be like without a misfire.

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Every once in a while life hands you humbling situations to keep you grounded.

 

Intentional pun? ;)

BtSsm - Android app/Bluetooth adapter. LV, logging, gauges and more. For 05-14 Legacy (GT, 2.5, 3.0, 3.6), 02-14 WRX, 04-14 STi, 04-14 FXT, 05-09 OBXT
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  • 2 weeks later...

Puzzle of the day: Twice yesterday, for about 5 seconds of idling @ each stop, I heard and felt NO misfires. For the very first time since the problem started, I briefly felt zero misfires. What in the wide wide world of sports has the ability to cause/allow the misfire to temporarily stop?

 

I ordered new gaskets and I'm going to delete my TGVs sometime in the next few weeks.

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