Painting rotors

So I searched and came across one helpful thread in which some were saying it's a waste of time and some were saying it's very helpful.

 

Subaru is replacing my front rotors under warranty and I asked the service guy if it was possible to have them painted before they put them on, he said sure. I also asked about the calipers. Again, he's fine with it. Reason being, as we all know, is part of the rotor and the calipers are completely rusted. I know they're fine mechanically but aesthetically it's none too pleasing.

 

I have a few questions (forgive my total ignorance here)

 

1. The term "rotor top hat" was said a few times in that aforementioned thread. I think this is what I'm referring to when talking about what's completely rusted - most notably on the rear rotors, not so much on the fronts. I obviously won't paint the rotor surface (where the pad meets) but is it possible, and worth it, to paint this portion of the rotor?

 

2. What type of paint should I use. I've seen varying posts saying "high temp" to "krylon" Is there a caliper and/or rotor specific paint I should go for?

 

3. Like I said the front rotors aren't so bad aesthetically. The rear ones are atrocious. Should I forgo doing anything to the fronts and just focus on the rear? (I'm trying to find a picture of my rear rotors I once had to show you how bad it is).

 

Thanks in advance for the help

 

MM

These are the best photos I can find right now

 

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h218/madjik_man/Subaru/P1040275.jpg?t=1286898839

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h218/madjik_man/Subaru/P1040219.jpg?t=1286898890

I've used high temp paint on many of my brake parts for years when I wanted to spruce things up. There are some "caliper paint" kits that is supposed to be better/thicker high temp paint. The real jist is that they come with brushes to paint the calipers.

 

Just remember if they are doing it to keep the paint away from all the moving parts. Also the top hats they are referring to is the part the hits the hub.. ie the rusted piece. I wouldn't put too much paint on the areas directly facing the wheels, since over time it might just... stick to the wheels. The outer area is perfectly fine. Also if you want, you could try to paint the edges.. but hard to do without getting it onto the face of the rotors.. obviously a no-no since that's the pad surface contact area.

 

I keep on thinking that I'll do it when I bleed my brakes... but I'm so lazy now a days I don't even care too much. My 05 calipers and rotors do not look nearly as bad as yours.. actually I don't have any rust showing at all.. and I live in Boston.

My Centric rotors came painted on the hub and the outside edge. They've been holding up fine now for 3 bad winters so far

You can paint the whole thing, the pads will eat away the paint the first time you use them.

 

But it is better to mask off most of the rotor surface.

 

You can paint where the wheel sit's, a slight kick with your foot will knock the wheel loose.

 

I just wire brush the rust off, mask, spary with a $6.00 can of high temp paint from the auto parts store or walmart. let it dry for a few minutes and put the wheels back on.

 

I also take this time to inspect the brake pads and lube the pins and sliders. This is a job you can do at home with basic tools, jack and jack stands. I remove the rotors and spray them on a bench.

 

Or pay someone to do.

I just grabbed some duplicator high temp caliper paint and painted a pair of rotors and a caliper I was replacing on my wife's '98 outback. I just cleaned, taped and sprayed. But I noticed on the install both brake cleaner and brake fluid took the paint right off. This was after waiting a week for the paint to cure as directed. It still looks better than nothing but didn't go as well as planned. You should look into primer and possibly a clear coat for more durability.

Why are you getting your brakes warrantied? Because of the rust?

I did this on my old accord. On the rears, I just sprayed the whold rotor, clear coated it and let the brakes eat away the paint on the surface. Its a little ghetto, but it works.

 

I was a bit more elaborate on the fronts though, pic

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p330/ibr_adam09/accord/1992accord449.jpg

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p330/ibr_adam09/accord/1992accord446.jpg

Why are you getting your brakes warrantied? Because of the rust?

 

No.

 

I've had issues with them (violent vibrations at highway speeds) since I bought the car. The resurfaced (or whatever it is called) the rotors 3 times to get it right.

 

They said once it's time for new pads, they'll throw in a set of rotors under warranty because the surface material is so thin at this point.

 

They're also telling me that painting the top hats is a bad idea. But I trust the enthusiasts here more than them

The fix for the warpped rotors is to rebed the brakes. It happens on these car offen.

 

Do 4 or 5 almost stops from 55mph in rapid sucession, then drive for at least a mile without stopping.

 

I find that when I baby the brakes this warpping happens. When I feel it start to shimmy in the steering wheel when I step on the brakes at highway speeds, I know it's time to get the brakes hot. I'll usally brake later and hard on the next off ramp.

 

I have been painting the brake rotors and drums since the mid 70's on the 1970 340 Duster.

 

Never had issue.

To clarify Max Capacities bed-in method, do 4 or 5 HARD almost stops in rapid succession, then take it easy and try to minimize braking for a few minutes after.

I have slotted front rotors and still find that I have to re-bed every now and then.

This has been gone over so many times, it's at the point of ridiculous. The concept of "Warped" rotors is almost always due to pad deposits on the rotor.

 

Think about it what is required to warp cast iron. An enormous amount of heat is just the beginning, somewhere above 1500ºC. The glowing red that brakes tend to do on race cars is just barely above the 500ºC mark. Then, you'd need to apply a transverse moment on the rotor (perpendicular to the rotation of the rotor), which is outrageously difficult with a caliper that applies equal pressure on both faces of the rotor. The temperatures necessary to actually heat the iron rotors to that point, would combust all but the most aggressive of racing brake pads.

 

The cause of, probably, 100% of all "warped" rotors is what Max mentioned. Pad transfer to the surface of a hot rotor, or a mismanufactured rotor.

 

Resurfacing is a good idea when the problem has gotten so bad that rebedding doesn't do the trick.

Painting the top hat of the rotor provides for a better look rather than the traditional rustic look. For a long term affect, I use the DupliColor caliper paint. It is epoxy based and last a long time and cost about $25 for a small can but goes a long way. It does however take some work up front to get the rotor cleaned and then painting the top hat by hand with a brush. If you have a steady hand not need to tape off the rotor face but then again after a few beers working on the car...you might just start off with completely cleaning the top hat with a wire brush, then spray the brake cleaner over the entire surface of the rotor. Let it air dry, then tape of the face closest to the top hat portion. Paint a few coats of the DupliColor paint and you will have a fantastic long lasting finish.