Coolant flush?

Hey all,

 

Anybody know what's involved in a coolant flush? Never done one and tryin' save some bucks.

 

Thanks.

theres not to much to it. the quick way would be to remove the lower radiator hose and let it all drain out. and then refill the system. just be sure that you burp and refill the system properly since you will be creating a big air pocket by emptying the whole cooling system.

You can race the wife to see who finishes first.

 

http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2671&highlight=Coolant+flush

^^:lol:^^

 

Thanks for the help.

I believe the refill calls for adding a Subaru conditioner to the coolant. Which is puzzling....if you were to buy the Subaru coolant why wouldn't the conditioner be pre-mixed?

^ money making schemes

Might want to consider an upgrade to Zerex G-05 when you're done. Based on the Net buzz, there isn't anything better. Anecdotally, I've used it in the last three vehicles and no problems.

with boxer motor, does coolant in block drain also just by removing radiator drain plug ?

 

what about heater core?

^^to follow up on that post, this is the method i would use for my Honda.

 

1. drain radiator & resevoir and replace drain plug

2. remove thermostat and replace housing (to flush engine block)

3. disconnect upper radiator hose from radiator and aim down

4. start car and turn heat on (to flush heater core also)

5. flush with water. being obsessive compulsive, i would use a dump-load of distilled water to do this, to avoid putting impurities into the cooling system

as you dump water in, it will cycle thru everything and flow out the upper hose.

6. replace all the stuff you took off.

7. from the manual, i knew how much fluid heater core and engine block held, so i would add the appropriate amount of coolant to the radiator & resevoir to dilute the water remaining in the engine to the proper mixture.

8. run & re-check levels

 

my apologies if this method would be totally irrelevant to the LGT. but with the Honda, that was the only way to flush radiator, block, & heater core without the use of any specialized equipment.

Might want to consider an upgrade to Zerex G-05 when you're done. Based on the Net buzz' date=' there isn't anything better. Anecdotally, I've used it in the last three vehicles and no problems.[/quote']

 

I'm pretty sure that Zerex is an antifreeze/coolant. Please read this Subaru article.

 

Cliff Notes:

• Always use Genuine Subaru Long Life Anti-Freeze Coolant,

  
  

• Don't use any aftermarket coolant reinforcement agents or sealers as they may clog the radiator,or cause internal corrosion.

  
  

SBT

Coolant Cautions May05.pdf

As much as I believe that to be a scam, when it comes timew to change my coolant, it'll be with the genuine subaru stuff, just in case.

As much as I believe that to be a scam, when it comes timew to change my coolant, it'll be with the genuine subaru stuff, just in case.

 

That's what I used! Besides, the oem stuff was $10.75 gal, only about $2 bucks more than Prestone, Zerex, Peak, etc... YOu only need to do it every 30k....

Oem Fluid 30%

2 Bottles of water wetter

Fill with distilled water

Can someone answer the previous question about the engine block being self draining via the radiator drain? I am interested as well.

If you really want to fully drain the engine block, you'll need to pull the drain plugs on each side. I'll find a diagram later and post up.

 

SBT

That would be great. I like to fully drain everthing, then push fresh water through everthing and out the drains, then refilling.

 

I used to pull the water jacket drain plugs on my LT1 (which was a HUGE PITA) just for this purpose.

That would be great. I like to fully drain everthing, then push fresh water through everthing and out the drains, then refilling.

 

I used to pull the water jacket drain plugs on my LT1 (which was a HUGE PITA) just for this purpose.

 

 

You need to pull the engine plugs to drain the block. If you did it on an LT1 this will seem like a walk in the park

 

BTW, you people are all crazy

Please read this Subaru article.

 

Doesn't mention anything about silicates either... Honda was very specific in using silicate-free.

 

The only info in the Owner's Manual is to use ethylene-glycol based coolant, I thought pretty much all coolants were ethylene-glycol based and it was the additives to be careful of.

 

i'll do some reading on vacation, will post if i find anything.

BTW, you people are all crazy

Why? http://www.v6performance.net/forums/images/smilies/poke.gif

Where do you guys go to get rid of all your antifreeze? All the places around me last time wouldn't touch the stuff...ie pepboys, autozone, checker, dump yard required that I have alot of the stuff for the removal and that I couldn't just "drop it off."

I've always heard that you should flush it down the toilet.

It is biodegradable and the sewage treatment plants can easily handle it.

 

Just keep it away from all of your pets.

Did some research, Subaru coolant is the only product recommended. No alternative is listed. I can't find any other specs / contents on Subs coolant either, so I'd be very hesitant to put anything else in.

 

ALSO it appears Subs coolant is pre-diluted to 50%, that might be important info, especially for those up North. (prob. specified on bottle?)

 

I can't find any info on draining the engine block. my guess is that being enviro friendly, Sub does not want the DIY to dump fluid down the driveway. (for a total flush, its very difficult to capture all the fluid, w/o expensive equipment)

 

Finally: I'll reiterate info contained in Subietonic's link for anybody that considers taking their car into some national chain for coolant service.

 

"Do not use a flushing machine to service Subaru cooling systems. If the machine has been used to service other makes of vehicles that may have copper/brass radiators, a chemical reaction between the copper ions and Genuine Subaru Long Life Anti-Freeze Coolant may occur, which could cause clogging of the radiator."

So the dealership said the jug I bought (Subaru brand) is concentrated (NOT pre-diluted) and I need to diulte with water 50/50. Does this sound right? I'm getting conflicting reports. Do I have to used distilled water?

http://img323.imageshack.us/img323/1808/coolant9yi.jpg

It's a 1 Gallon jug (3.78L). The guy at the counter said "Well if it's premixed, you'll need 2 jugs, if it's not, you'll need 1 and it looks like it's not premixed."

But this guy didn't really know and had to ask another guy - neither of them were technicians. GHEY. And it's Sunday and I cannot call anybody.