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2005 and later Legacy and Outback owners: Tearing control arm bushings?


lgt_nube

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My independent Subaru shop showed me today, after the 60,000 mile service, that both left and right front lower control arm bushings are tearing on my 2005 LGT wagon. They said they could see that 2005 and later Legacies and Outbacks would be having that problem, and they've already seen it on at least two beside mine. I'm wondering how many others with those cars have had that problem, if they've tried to get it covered under original or extended warranty, and what the result was.

 

http://s94684512.onlinehome.us/files/IMG_0162c_600h.jpg

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mine were exactly this way at 27k. Both control arms were replaced under warranty. I have 48k and the new ones havent started ripping yet.

 

I have a wife (gently) driven wagon BTW.

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Do I assume correctly that you were out of the regular warranty period and didn't have the extended warranty? Did they replace the bushings or the control arms including the bushings? Do you mind saying what that cost?

 

05 Legacy GT wagon here too and I just had mine replaced by a local shop. My wagon has about 52K miles on it.
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I read the whole thread and I still don't know in what way those bushings are supposed to be better than stock, what the benefits are, and how to choose between the three types offered. For what it's worth, my car doesn't pull to either side and I don't sense any wandering.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44889&highlight=superpro This is what I replaced mine with. They really tighten the steering up and gets rid of the wandering.
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I read the whole thread and I still don't know in what way those bushings are supposed to be better than stock, what the benefits are, and how to choose between the three types offered. For what it's worth, my car doesn't pull to either side and I don't sense any wandering.

 

It improve feel and you don't have to correct as much sweeping turn and it keeps the car for following ruts made by big truck. It takes alot of the mushiness out of the the steering. Some people go with the offset to increase caster and move the wheels forwards. I wasn't sure my 19's would clear.

 

The other thing they won't have to be replaced and make the steering more response. It one of best suspension mods. And goes well with my KW V.2 coil overs ,f&r sways, and f&r lower control arm braces. It's up to you.

Racer X FMIC for '05-'09 LGTs, '08+ WRX and '10+ LGT,'14+ FXT, and '15+ WRX TMIC Racerxengineering.com
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Mine were torn on a stock ride height suspension at 35,000. I installed the Superpro High Offset bushings mostly myself. I removed the LCA's had a shop press the bushings out and in, and then I reinstalled the LCA's. Very easy.

 

There was a significant improvement in steering response, turning feel, and ability to hold a line straight or curved. I highly suggest getting the high offset bushings from Superpro, or the AVO bushings.

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This morning I took my car into Marin Subaru in San Rafael, CA, where I bought it and the short version is that they are replacing the bushings under my extended warranty. The longer version is that I talked with the service manager and it was clear to me that he wants to fix them all but Subaru stopped him from doing that some time ago and then issued a service bulletin in 2006 that said that the crack had to be greater than 15mm to be replaceable under warranty (mine was 33mm). That's still where the official Subaru policy stands. I think Subaru has a design problem on their hands and this is their way of dealing with it.

 

My independent Subaru shop showed me today, after the 60,000 mile service, that both left and right front lower control arm bushings are tearing on my 2005 LGT wagon. They said they could see that 2005 and later Legacies and Outbacks would be having that problem, and they've already seen it on at least two beside mine. I'm wondering how many others with those cars have had that problem, if they've tried to get it covered under original or extended warranty, and what the result was.

 

http://s94684512.onlinehome.us/files/IMG_0162c_600h.jpg

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Mine were torn on a stock ride height suspension at 35,000. I installed the Superpro High Offset bushings mostly myself. I removed the LCA's had a shop press the bushings out and in, and then I reinstalled the LCA's. Very easy.

 

There was a significant improvement in steering response, turning feel, and ability to hold a line straight or curved. I highly suggest getting the high offset bushings from Superpro, or the AVO bushings.

 

Hey guys - I'm new to the Forum, but i have been reading for a while. I have this same problem with my 05 LGT Wagon with 75K miles. My dealer and SOA wouldn't even acknowledge any bulletins. Anyway, I bought the SuperPro 0 offset bushings online, but I am having trouble finding a shop that will install my parts, so my question is, how difficult is it to get the LCAs off myself to take in and have the new bushings pressed in?

 

Thanks!

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Anyone know where to get the Superpros yet as Rallitek doesnt list them anymore. I guess I will drive down there to ask in person..... Yes a walkthough would be nice....

 

Jim

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Anyone know where to get the Superpros yet as Rallitek doesnt list them anymore. I guess I will drive down there to ask in person..... Yes a walkthough would be nice....

 

Jim

 

I got mine a couple of days ago online from Turn in Concepts (http://www.turninconcepts.com/) - $107. They said they had two sets of the 0 offset left in stock (I got one of them).

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Do I assume correctly that you were out of the regular warranty period and didn't have the extended warranty? Did they replace the bushings or the control arms including the bushings? Do you mind saying what that cost?

 

Yes, I have about 52K miles on my wagon now so I'm far out of warranty and did not get the extended warranty. I also had mine replaced at a local tire/suspension shop.

 

The bushings themselves were cheap -- $12 each or so. The local shop charged me 1 hour of labor per LCA and a front end alignment so it came out to just over $200.

 

The replacement made a HUGE difference. The steering firmed up and best of all, the steering wheel shimmy went away.

 

I suspect that the tearing happens gradually and people really don't notice it until it gets really bad.

 

How did your replacement go?

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Do you have the Subaru extended warranty?

 

No - and I am way out of warranty. I have the parts to replace, but right now don't have the time to install, so I am looking for a good shop to do the work that won't charge an arm and a leg. I am not driving my car at all for the past month :icon_cry: cause my OEM bushings are torn all the way through and the control arms are hitting the lower bracket on bumps.

 

Does anyone have a step-by-step of how to remove the LCA's?

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sorry, perhaps i'm not used to seeing this, but i see little cracks up top... is that what im supposed to be looking for? err.. could someone circle where the crack >15mm is supposed to be?
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It is very easy to do on our cars. After you jack up the car and get the wheels off the ground. The LCA is held on at 3 points

1. You take off the nut that holds on your old bushing that you are going to replace.

2. Next where you control arm meets the strut. You have a horizontal bolt at the ball joint. If you take that bolt out the LCA will separate. You may have to tap i down but it will come off.

3. Next you just take off the last bolt that the connects the LCA to the chassis. Take that off and the LCA will be out.

I may have made it sound really simple because it is. I though it would be a PITA before I look at it. then I had it off in about 10 minutes.

 

The only "hard part" is that you have to get the bushing pressed in. Since you got the "0" bushings you can take the LCA and bushing to any machine shop and get it pressed in. If they can do universal joints they can do this. Even some auto part stores can do it. I hope that helps.

Racer X FMIC for '05-'09 LGTs, '08+ WRX and '10+ LGT,'14+ FXT, and '15+ WRX TMIC Racerxengineering.com
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It is very easy to do on our cars. After you jack up the car and get the wheels off the ground. The LCA is held on at 3 points

1. You take off the nut that holds on your old bushing that you are going to replace.

2. Next where you control arm meets the strut. You have a horizontal bolt at the ball joint. If you take that bolt out the LCA will separate. You may have to tap i down but it will come off.

3. Next you just take off the last bolt that the connects the LCA to the chassis. Take that off and the LCA will be out.

I may have made it sound really simple because it is. I though it would be a PITA before I look at it. then I had it off in about 10 minutes.

 

The only "hard part" is that you have to get the bushing pressed in. Since you got the "0" bushings you can take the LCA and bushing to any machine shop and get it pressed in. If they can do universal joints they can do this. Even some auto part stores can do it. I hope that helps.

 

I got the offset pair on the way because they are supposed to help with our rutted oregon roads (studded tires) . Do I have to align them in some special way when pressed in due to the offset?

 

Jim

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http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b328/cmgtstan/IMG00206.jpg

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b328/cmgtstan/IMG00207.jpg

 

My ripped LCA bushing.

 

How are the bushings from turninconcepts.com working out for those that purchased them?

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