Bolt up turbocharger upgrade - Vol-2

When you loosen the band, you're technically rotating the turbine housing, whichever way you look at it, has the same effect in the end

 

Yeah. The IHI's are pinned at the exhaust housing so that alignment is pretty much set in stone unless you remove their tiny roll pin, which is easily done. The IHI's are also the ones that are sealed with silicone, so it would be extremely difficult to actually turn the compressor housing and if you could, that would definitely tell you that your seal wasn't much good to begin with...LOL.

 

I've taken apart IHI's and have found just enough silicone there to see a discoloration but not enough to actually seal anything. I've repaired a couple of boost leaks right at this spot because being right in the firing line of the compressor wheel, it can push right past the crappy seal (or lack thereof) and cause a boost leak you'll tear your hair out trying to find.

 

Good photos though because I've found many turbos that were not in alignment causing the installers a TON of headaches trying to get the TMIC bolted on and they are a pain in the ass enough even if they are in correct alignment.

Just out of curiosity, did you check the CHRA clocking to the the housings?

 

Just checked my VF40, the CHRA is square to the turbine inlet

Here's one; after hard running I get a burned oil smell and occasional smoke out of the hood vent. I'm pretty sure it's turbo related. There's no oil visible on the turbo, none getting flung up form the CV joints.

I have an AVO380 that's about 2 yrs old, and a built motor with a high-flow (or high pressure, don't recall which) oil pump. One guess is I'm getting oil pushing by the seals and into the exhaust side of the turbo causing oil burning smell and occasional oil smoke out the hood vent.

I'd love to hear thoughts on cause and resolution

tanks mang

Check your turbo oil drain line. Could be leaking onto the UP.

Check the turbo oil return line, i had that issue after installing my new turbo, ended up just throwing a hose clamp on it along w/ the stock clamp. If you get a leak there it can drip right on the UP. You might also see a little oil on the bottom edge of the head, since that's where it would end up if wind didn't help it drop onto the UP.

You can get a good look at it from behind the half shaft, face against the DP

Getting your hand in there to put a clamp on it... well.. that just sucks

Here's one; after hard running I get a burned oil smell and occasional smoke out of the hood vent. I'm pretty sure it's turbo related. There's no oil visible on the turbo, none getting flung up form the CV joints.

I have an AVO380 that's about 2 yrs old, and a built motor with a high-flow (or high pressure, don't recall which) oil pump. One guess is I'm getting oil pushing by the seals and into the exhaust side of the turbo causing oil burning smell and occasional oil smoke out the hood vent.

I'd love to hear thoughts on cause and resolution

tanks mang

 

 

Check PS valve cover. When I had smoke out of my hood scoop. The PS valve cover was dropping on the UP.

New topic on the turbo upgrade theme ...

 

Any thoughts on how long we can go with the new turbo before having the car "Tuned" for it? I know it needs to be done but ...

 

I just put in a new short block along with a new BNR and wanted to get some miles on the break-in before working it on a dyno.

 

Any detrimantal effects due to sticking with the oem "tune" for 1000mi?

 

Thanks for your input.

I would say it probably depends on a number of factors, but mainly how you drive it.

 

I plan on breaking in my new engine and 68HTA with a 16g tune, but limiting boost physically or in the tune.

I'd recommend getting a limp tune rather than using the OEM one and trying not to build boost.

I'm considering just leaving the wastegate arm disconnected.

That'll do it.

 

But honestly, you problably want the engine to see a bit a boost during Intitial break in. I followed cobbs guide which allowed 5 pounds under 4500. They say it good to get the pistons to see a bit of pressure so it can seal into the walls better. But it also depends on who built the motor and what thier specs were.

 

I couldn't be happier with how my break in has been. With the vigourisly oil changes the first 1300 miles, I haven't seen a drop gone now. 13k on the motor and did A full 3500 oci, I filled the bucket as much as I put in.

Run the compressor outlet to the wastegate inlet and limit yourself to wastegate spring pressure. Standard wastegate is 7psi.

 

Not my first recommendation, but you need some boost (4-5 psi) to properly break in the motor.

My upgraded actuator will be set to 14.7#, too much?

Yes, too much. You can watch a boost gauge or set your WGDC to 0% in the tune. No good way around this one. Not unless you have a tuner in your back pocket who will write you a base map for motor break in (how I do it).

Good tuners will get you a base map.

It's an OEM STI short block

 

All good info thanks.

68HTA

http://i.imgur.com/7jaRjb1l.jpg

 

That is a pretty turbo Turkeylord

 

68HTA

http://i.imgur.com/7jaRjb1l.jpg

 

68HTA

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This turbo is still one of my favorites for a dd. I'm sure you will enjoy it on corn.

 

Dave

Hi Guys.

 

I am hearing from customers that Mike@infamous is out of oil line kits and may be discontinuing production. Is there an alternate place that supplies filter oil line kits that is installer friendly for the 05-09 LGT/XT's?

 

Thanks for your help.

 

Bryan@BNR

What?

 

Paging m sprank...

 

Yeah me too! Mike does such a good job on the oil lines.

Damn it! My stocker has some shaft play and I was looking at you BNR for a replacement sometime in 2014, with Mike's bypass filter. Edited November 21, 2013 by dga