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TheWeatherWarrior

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Trevor

Manassas, Virginia

2008 legacy spec b.

63,xxx

process west top mount, SPT turbo back, grimm speed turbo heat shield.

http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x374/05flat4/specbatcardinal_zps05538c49.jpg

http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x374/05flat4/specbatcardinal2_zps6ee946ae.jpg

http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x374/05flat4/specbatwork_zps13f83b65.jpg

Edited by spec'd08
added pics
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If you have some experience, clutch is easy. Don't let people intimidate you about it. You'll need a transmission jack, though. One way gives you a lot of room but involves popping the axles out of the wheel hubs; the way that gives you less room just involves moving the transmission back so you'll have like 8 inches of room. I've been able to do it both ways before.

 

1. Remove intake stuff so you can see the transmission.

2. Undo pitch stop mount.

3. Remove as many engine-tranny bolts as you can from on top and undo all the electrical connectors on the tranny.

4. (Optional) Break both front axle nuts free

5. (Optional) Mark orientation of top strut bolts as these are the camber adjustment bolts. Now remove top and bottom bolts.

6. (Optional) Swing hub down to pull axle out of hub. You may need to unbolt the brake line bracket.

7. Remove 4 bolts that connect driveshaft and differential.

8. Remove two bolts that hold up the middle section of the driveshaft

9. Support transmission with a transmission jack and remove the trans mount H frame.

10. Pry transmission away from engine. If you took the optional steps, you can now wheel it out from under the car. If not, you should be able to get a good 8-10 inches of room, especially when the engine tilts forward.

11. Remove clutch and flywheel. A screwdriver through the engine block to hold the flywheel in place helps a lot.

12. Installation is reverse of removal.

 

Benefit of doing it these two ways is that there's no need to drain the transmission fluid.

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