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Alex's Obsidian Black LGT wagon


alex0856

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Thought I'd turn this into more of a build/update thread for my 2005 OBP LGT Wagon 5MT. That and it'll be a damn good way for me to track everything I've done.

 

http://i.imgur.com/hQZcT3Mh.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/wlZj47zh.jpg

 

Build list:

 

Engine/exhaust

 

OEM EJ255 Shortblock

Weisco Forged Pistons

ACL Race bearings

ARP head studs

JmP OEM-rebuilt VF40 with custom bearings

KillerB pickup and baffle

Nameless LWCP

BMB bulletproof kit installed on OEM TMIC

Venair auxhilary hose kit

'04 STi catless up pipe w/ EGT resistor mod

Cobb catted downpipe

Cobb mid, Y

Nameless 5" axleback, in black

 

Suspension

 

Bilstein shocks, OEM LGT springs

Rallitek front and rear endlinks

Rallitek swaybars

 

Drivetrain

 

Kartboy short shifter w/ urethane bushings

Excedy OEM replacement clutch, OEM SMFW

 

Interior

 

Limited interior swap, black leather and doorcards

 

Exterior

 

AVS Ventvisors

Flapatax mudflaps

Yakima LowRider with 48" round crossbars

Cleared and blacked out headlights

JDM rear tails, smoked

20-ish% tint all around

Sparco Assetto Gara 18x8+48

Bridgestone Potenza 240/40/18

 

 

What's been done:

 

1-2-15:

 

Mileage: 109500

 

Bought my LGT!

 

1-10-15:

 

Spark plugs replaced

Oil change

 

1-15-15:

 

Installed ventvisors

 

http://i.imgur.com/Ksjxbqdl.jpg

 

1-27-15:

 

Installed LED dome, map, and reverse lights

 

http://i.imgur.com/ywsUoJWl.jpg

 

1-30-15:

 

New Gates timing kit with pulleys

Waterpump

Camseal

Valve cover gaskets

O2 sensor

Gates drive belts replaced

New radiator hoses

 

Pretty blue belt:

 

http://i.imgur.com/DMhGEpQl.jpg

 

Also got license plates finally and a Grimmspeed bracket off Craigslist to go with it:

 

http://i.imgur.com/ch2emjll.jpg

 

2-2-15:

 

Replaced fogs with Optilux yellow bulbs

Also repaired a big ass hole in fog light fixture

 

http://i.imgur.com/pwUe9Y2l.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/bEkblJUl.jpg

 

2-26-15:

 

Drained and filled tranny with Red Line 75W-90NS

 

2-26-15:

 

VF40 removed, on its way to JmP for an OE-style rebuild

 

http://i.imgur.com/sya4DyNl.jpg

 

3-3-15:

 

Rebuild complete, on its way back to me!

 

http://i.imgur.com/7kmU49Sl.jpg

 

3-8-15:

 

Mileage: 111420

 

JmP VF40 installed

UP switched out for a catless UP off an 04 STi

Turbo inlet replaced (lots of curse words were exchanged)

Throttle body hose replaced with new Mishimoto hose

Replaced intercooler with used unit

Radiator drain cap, because I stripped mine

Rear diff drained and filled with Subaru HPGO

Took an oil sample for Blackstone labs

Filled with T6 and an OEM blue filter.

 

http://i.imgur.com/h3e9Riql.jpg

 

3-12-15:

 

Received my Tactrix and base map from CryoTune

 

3-15-15:

 

Mileage: 111600

 

-Replaced PCV valve

-Cleaned throttle body

-Replaced copper washers on turbo oil feed

 

3-16-15:

 

New Valeo Ultimate wiper blades up front, Subaru blade in the rear.

 

4-24-15

 

Mileage: 112900

 

Received the bad news

 

http://i.imgur.com/4kz1GBWm.jpg

 

5-21-15:

 

Mileage: 112940

 

Installed LGT limited front seats

Installed IAG floor mat bracket

 

http://i.imgur.com/wk3kL4Om.jpg

 

5-29-15:

 

Installed BMB BP kit for TMIC, replaced TMIC

 

http://i.imgur.com/OPQj0r8m.jpg

 

6-5-15:

 

Installed a trailer hitch

 

http://i.imgur.com/Za8Xhbhm.jpg

 

6-8-15:

 

Installed JDM tails, Diode Dynamics flasher, LED rear turn signals and brake lights

 

http://i.imgur.com/9SAFcWbm.jpg

 

8-29-15:

 

Installed freshly dipped Sparco Assetto Garas. 18x8+48 with new black spline drive lugs.

Reassembled front clip with freshly blacked out and cleared headlights (thanks to b_holm), dipped grill, and JDM Astar LED switchback turn signals.

Installed a Cobb TBE minus mufflers.

 

http://i.imgur.com/KaWt4EEm.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Gi7xmpkm.jpg

 

9-12-15:

 

Installed Flapatax mudflaps

 

http://i.imgur.com/UyDzljLh.jpg

 

10-22-15:

 

Dropped it off at Horizontal Motorsports in Sherwood, OR for a rebuild

 

12-5-15:

 

Received the car back with its new motor.

 

1-16-16:

 

Fully detailed the car inside and out with Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and RejeX liquid wax

 

1-19-16:

 

Installed a custom badge overlay

 

On order/sitting in my garage waiting to be installed:

 

nothing!

 

Wish List:

 

-JDM rear trunk garnish

-Power folding mirrors

-Power adjustable headlight beams

-HIDs 6k

-Lower it (maybe)

 

-----------------------------------------------------------------

 

Original post:

 

Hi all, I'm new to the Subaru world. 2 weeks ago I bought an '05 LGT Limited wagon 5MT. She's 99% stock and in great shape with 109k miles. Here's some pics:

 

http://i.imgur.com/wlZj47zl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/OzUKXuNl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/USwuMdvl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/a4S3ksul.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/fFdqSoGl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/zTXyWTkl.jpg

 

While I'm here, does anyone know if it's uncommon for a limited trim to not have a sunroof? Because mine doesn't, which was odd because every single one I found had a sunroof unless it was the base model. I wish mine did, but at $9500 it wasn't exactly a deal breaker.

 

Also, do you all have a power passenger seat in your 05's? My driver's seat is power but the passenger is manual.

 

Lastly, I was told by the owner that black interior with black exterior is hard to come by on these cars. Is this true?

 

Thanks for looking all, I have many plans for this car (mostly cosmetic, I drive 20-25k miles a year so I keep my cars stock for maximum reliability), and I will post those updates here as time goes on.

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Welcome! Limited should have power passenger seats, sunroof, as well as dual zone climate control and a few other things. It could have been custom ordered from the factory that way for some reason. There is a thread around here with a list of production numbers for each color combo.

 

By the way timing belt water pump and components should be changed at 105k, do you know if that was done? As far as reliability, be sure to change to catless uppipe. The cats are known to break apart and send chunks through the turbo, destroying it in the process.

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Welcome! Although the black exterior and interior is somewhat rare, a lgt wagon w/a 5mt isn't very common, let alone not having a moonroof and power passenger seat yet still has leather :confused:. But anyways few things to look out for with the car include:

- wheel bearings

- banjo bolt filters being clogged

- turbo failure

- and as lingling said, cats in uppipe breaking causing ur turbo and possibly your motor to go kaboom.

 

Also, how is your car only 99% stock?? And I would get the timing belt done if it hasn't already.

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lingling: That's what I thought. Maybe it's a base trim with selected options. It has leather, dual zone climate control, and a power driver's seat. I believe the base model has a manual driver's seat. It also does NOT have wood trim, instead it has the silver trim (which I prefer anyway).

 

OBP: I gambled a bit when I bought the car. I am the 3rd owner and the timing belt/clutch/turbo were supposedly replaced at 75k by the original owner... but the second owner had no receipts. So far pulling the timing cover has proven that at least to be partially true, since the belt appears to be in great shape. I doubt an original clutch would have lasted this long. But I don't know.

 

I just bought a swivel ratchet so that I can access everything to remove the banjo bolt and check it. It's on my to do list...I'm just a procrastinator :rolleyes:

 

I did not know that about the cat however. I will make sure that moves up my priority list.

 

When I say 99% stock, I mean no aftermarket parts. The shocks may be aftermarket too, not sure. It's not lowered. I have a record from 2007 for the shocks being replaced with parts provided by the original owner.

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Well, it looks like this wagon may not actually not be a limited trim, but instead a base with added options. It's hard to say. VIN decoders don't tell me the trim level, nor does Subaru's site. Unless it would say "2.5GT Limited" instead of just 2.5GT?

 

Production numbers for this car are either 108...or 108. Either trim.

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Well, it looks like this wagon may not actually not be a limited trim, but instead a base with added options. It's hard to say. VIN decoders don't tell me the trim level, nor does Subaru's site. Unless it would say "2.5GT Limited" instead of just 2.5GT?

 

Production numbers for this car are either 108...or 108. Either trim.

 

lingling: That's what I thought. Maybe it's a base trim with selected options. It has leather, dual zone climate control, and a power driver's seat. I believe the base model has a manual driver's seat. It also does NOT have wood trim, instead it has the silver trim (which I prefer anyway).

 

OBP: I gambled a bit when I bought the car. I am the 3rd owner and the timing belt/clutch/turbo were supposedly replaced at 75k by the original owner... but the second owner had no receipts. So far pulling the timing cover has proven that at least to be partially true, since the belt appears to be in great shape. I doubt an original clutch would have lasted this long. But I don't know.

 

I just bought a swivel ratchet so that I can access everything to remove the banjo bolt and check it. It's on my to do list...I'm just a procrastinator :rolleyes:

 

I did not know that about the cat however. I will make sure that moves up my priority list.

 

When I say 99% stock, I mean no aftermarket parts. Except for Brembo brakes on the front. The shocks may be aftermarket too, not sure. It's not lowered. I have a record from 2007 for the shocks being replaced with parts provided by the original owner.

 

Same here. Haven't checked the banjo bolt either (too cold here in CT) :p. Heck I have an accessport that I recently got that I need to install :p. But I need to do some investigating on my car, due to the fact that I think the original owner replaced the downpipe on mine (probably was at stage 2, then went back to stock and traded her in). I'm also the third owner of my lgt. And a clutch should usually last the life of car, but this car is more known to buring through them, so as long as that and the timing belt are good, your good for now. Got mine for 6k, but she had 147k on the odometer, but I knew the person selling it, and knew what condition the car was in and what she needed. I pretty much got a good deal in the end :).

However, change the oil every 3,000. The oil gets dirty pretty quickly due to a small oil filter...I usually do mine every 2500 - 3000. I recommend synthetic as turbo charged cars create more heat, and synthetic lasts longer from heat the turbo makes than regular oil. It's a bit more money, but worth it imo.

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When I say 99% stock, I mean no aftermarket parts. Except for Brembo brakes on the front. The shocks may be aftermarket too, not sure. It's not lowered. I have a record from 2007 for the shocks being replaced with parts provided by the original owner.

 

Are you sure about the Brembo brakes? I don't see a Brembo caliper in the pictures and I am pretty sure a stock wheel wouldn't clear them either.

 

I would strongly suggest you not gamble on the timing belt being done if you really have no proof. The belt could still look good but looks are deceiving you should know definitively that it's been done and then you shouldn't worry about it, until then know if that belt snaps then you're rebuilding that engine.

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OBP: Changed the oil right away to be safe. Used Castrol full synthetic, put 10-30 in since it was $1 a quart at AutoZone. I installed a larger filter because I read about dirty oil issues.

 

sigma: You know, now I'm confused. When I took it to a shop to get it inspected, the kid who was looking at it commented on the "brembos" up front. I always associate Brembo with brakes, so I assumed. Does Brembo make shocks/struts?

 

Trust me, I am aware of the dangers of bad timing belts. I replaced it on my Civic 10k miles early because it too is an interference motor. I'll get a second opinion on the belt, but for now replacing it isn't really an option.

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Alex. I don't think your car will last all that long for you as you may well be starting down the wrong road with your well meaning intentions.

 

Your car really needs a 5W oil and not to say you won't survive on a 10W but buying the wrong parts to save money is not always a smart choice. The right oil saves your engine and the wrong oil won't. $1/quart for FULL *Castrol* synthetic? You sure... Mail in rebate or something? Are you sure???

 

The filter size is not what stops the oil from getting dirty, it's still going to get dirty which is why you change it in these cars every 3000 miles and you check it OFTEN. I haven't noticed these cars 'dirty' the oil any more than other turbocharged cars anyway.

 

If you want clean oil, don't turn the car on... the dirty oil is combustion carbon and those pass right through the filter because if they didn't ANY size filter would become hopelessly clogged in no time. A filter stops larger particles but the black dissolved in carbon will still show and the PH of the oil will still change and the weight will still breakdown. What you have done is likely changed the flow from that filter and you have an unknown bypass pressure which changes the behavior from the filter Subaru designed. Might not matter or it might but most owners on this forum stick with the stock Subaru engine filter even on highly modified engines because it's THAT GOOD and it seems most stay away from the larger more common aftermarket copies of this filter because they are not good. A few run the Amsoil double filters and some like the Purolator but most stick to OEM Subaru!

 

Brembo may put their brand on different things but Google will show you what Brembo's are.

 

Calling Mr Tris, Calling Mr Tris... he'll be here soon to point you in the right direction and assist you from here.

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I whole-heartedly disagree with your opinion on changing oil viscosity. I have never had a bad experience with running different motor oils. Changing to a thicker oil as a vehicle gets older can be a smart decision to reduce burning. I ran 10-40 in my Civic which called for 5-30 for a good 15,000 miles. Theoretically, since thicker oil increases viscosity, it increases friction on moving parts, which in turn could reduce mpg/increase wear. Sure, I get that. But in the real world there won't be any measurable side effects. I'm no mechanic but what I have learned I have learned from the best.

 

I understand what oil looks like and what full synthetic is. My friend works at AutoZone and it was on clearance. It happens occasionally so they sell it for $1 a quart. I plan on reverting to 5-30 on the next change. Thicker oils will be for 200k miles when it burns a quart every couple hundred miles like my Civic did :rolleyes:

 

As for the filter, what I really need to do is become more educated on brands of filters and I will read more into it so I can get a better understanding of bypass ratings on certain filters. I chose the large filter because I wanted it to hold MORE debris, instead of it getting clogged and going into bypass mode. I will take your advice and use OEM filters in the future though.

 

I'll get a pic of the shocks to show you guys.

 

Thanks all, I appreciate the input. Do not jump to conclusions though and assume I am clueless :)

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First off welcome and nice wagon.

 

Now for the technical stuff:

Oil: Rotella T6 and a Subaru OEM filter. Just because of a weight recommendation of oil doesn't always mean it is the best. I don't know if you've ever owned a turbo car before but you need to look at the additives in the oil for the health of the turbo. T6 has zinc in the oil which has been tested and praised by both LGT drivers and WRX/STi drivers for years. I saw you mentioned you civic quite a bit. Those engines are much more forgiving of little changes that may not be the best but they grunt through it anyway. These cars are far more picky about every little thing you do.

 

Shocks:You appear to be at stock height so my guess is the PO replaced them with stock KYB gas struts and probably reused the stock springs.

 

Brakes: Sorry man but those are stock LGT calipers. They might be manufactured by brembo but they are not "brembos" as we all refer to the STi brembos on this forum.

 

Your car also has a very interesting package which is most likely a base model with dual climate control and then leather seats which may have been factory installed or taken to an upholstery shop. My grandparents have a 2013 outback that they bought the base model but wanted leather seats still so they took it to an upholstery shop and the seats look exactly like the factory leather seats. The wood trim I believe is only in the tan interior cars not the black interior cars.

 

Im with Sigma on this one. Where's MrTris?:iam:

 

Edit: You said you aren't a mechanic but what you have learned your have learned from the best. Just curious as to who that is?

2005 Vader Wagon

Material Tests on Ringland Failure Piston

I should have held off and purchased a wagon instead of the spec.B
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nice wagon man, i like it. also, a lot of people are freaking out on you about the timing belt. common misconception, i would NOT be worried about the belt snapping, whereas i WOULD be worried about teeth on a pulley breaking. that will **** you over just as good. new belt: does not mean you are safe. other than that, things to replace/watch at your mileage (if you got da cash): HEAD GASKETS (do this regardless of your social status, im sure you like a running engine), front control arms, rear bushings, rear axle seals, CV boots, drive belts, spark plugs, oil control valves. anything else im missing?
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Yes yes I understand on the brakes now. I already feel dumb as is for even saying it :redface:

 

I have never owned a turbo car before, no. I suppose there is learning to do. Hence why I came here! I just had another person today tell me how picky these things are. I do come from a Honda background, and they're definitely more than forgiving. I drove the piss out of mine and never grannied it and it still runs like a top at 201k miles.

 

I have learned from the girlfriend's father and her family of mechanics, whom I've known for about a decade now.

 

I'm fairly positive it's factory leather. Most likely was ordered as a base with the leather, power seat, and dual HVAC. Who knows.

 

I've seen MrTris pick on noobs like myself, so this should be interesting if she shows his face.

 

foxy: Yeah, I'm ignoring them on that. I'm not worried about the belt at all.

 

Do you all have the Suby shifter in your cars or the Momo shifter? Which do you prefer?

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And a note on thicker oils for an older engine... it may have been something that 'helped' on an older car but it was a band-aid for a bigger problem which is basically wear! This is a tight fitting, well engineered Japanese engine not an old iron american car. When you have 'wear' on this engine with forced induction then a thicker oil will not help matters, you will need to fix the problem and keep using the right weight oil. T6 is excellent - it's still a 5W weight, 5W-40 to be exact and it will sheer down to a 30 weight by the time you need to be changing it. Using a thicker oil may increase wear too since it will not provide the correct startup lubrication in colder weather.

 

Okay I understand how you got oil for $1 but change it soon. I think all we are seeing here is that you intend to maintain your car but there is the impression you may be making some concerning choices based perhaps on a lack of knowledge about this particular motor. We've all been through it here and it's not about pick on the noob but we get a good number through here who have ended up in the same boat and replaced the engine, many of us on here have some kind of macabre association with this particular car and have the scars to show for it. If you follow the bell curve on this one you will have a happier time with the car.

 

We WANT people here who also love the car and get enjoyment from the car and we all want to see you succeed with it but it becomes typical entertainment to see over and over again when the same mistakes are made that lead to the same inevitable issues most of us have had to deal with.

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Luckily for OP, I was "called" to this thread, and, due to a couple of factors, I might not satisfy the others' need to see you, as the kids are calling it now, 'Get Tris'd'. :lol:

 

First factor is your location; I HATE Vancouver, WA. Grey, dull, tweeker shithole. Looks like you live in one of the nicer neighborhoods, though. Congrats on your third-tier prize in the genetic lottery, I guess. Either way, your locale disincentivises me to really exert any effort on your behalf.

 

Secondly, my work here is a bit more . . organic. Culled from a combination of firsthand experience and a somewhat extreme intolerance for former Honda owners, much like yourself, who knew only that a Subaru with a hoodscoop was turbo and AWD, and thus, had to have it.

So while it's flattering to think that I was called in as a sort of Internet Hitman, I don't really take requests. But I digress. . .

 

I started from the beginning, so, I guess we'll just keep the chronos as-is:

 

 

OBP: Changed the oil right away to be safe. Used Castrol full synthetic, put 10-30 in since it was $1 a quart at AutoZone. I installed a larger filter because I read about dirty oil issues.

 

 

Doesn't really do you much good, when you think about it. If your engine is experiencing enough wear to the rotating parts to overwhelm a correct size filter, a bigger filter is only a bigger shit-net and a sort-of gauze patch, not even a bandaid, to your actual problem.

 

sigma: You know, now I'm confused. When I took it to a shop to get it inspected, the kid who was looking at it commented on the "brembos" up front. I always associate Brembo with brakes, so I assumed. Does Brembo make shocks/struts?

 

The kid looking at it probably got excited that it was a turbo Subaru and, since all STis come with Brembos, assumed yours were, too. Or, perhaps just referred to brakes as Brembos, much like we usually call facial tissue, Kleenex.

 

Trust me, I am aware of the dangers of bad timing belts. I replaced it on my Civic 10k miles early because it too is an interference motor. I'll get a second opinion on the belt, but for now replacing it isn't really an option.

 

I hope this gamble works out for you, I really do. The biggest thing you need to understand is that these are not cheap cars to own and maintain. I highly recommend that you already have your adult life mostly sorted, otherwise, you can plan on staying in Mom's basement and listening to lectures about how you should be out on your own and providing for yourself for a lot longer. You're not stuck with this car, you can sell it at any time; you choose to keep it out of ego and/or idiocy -- I'll let you mix and match on that one.

 

All those Bros you see with their flatbill'd hats, tatted sleeves and Affliction shirts to match their WRB STi? Yeah, what they're not telling you is that they're broke and behind on Child Support, up to their eyeballs in debt. And even then, the car gets the bare minimum to survive while they beat the shit out of it, trying to impress girls by rolling Hondas on the freeway.

 

Alex. I don't think your car will last all that long for you as you may well be starting down the wrong road with your well meaning intentions.

 

Your car really needs a 5W oil and not to say you won't survive on a 10W but buying the wrong parts to save money is not always a smart choice. The right oil saves your engine and the wrong oil won't. $1/quart for FULL *Castrol* synthetic? You sure... Mail in rebate or something? Are you sure???

 

The filter size is not what stops the oil from getting dirty, it's still going to get dirty which is why you change it in these cars every 3000 miles and you check it OFTEN. I haven't noticed these cars 'dirty' the oil any more than other turbocharged cars anyway.

 

If you want clean oil, don't turn the car on... the dirty oil is combustion carbon and those pass right through the filter because if they didn't ANY size filter would become hopelessly clogged in no time. A filter stops larger particles but the black dissolved in carbon will still show and the PH of the oil will still change and the weight will still breakdown. What you have done is likely changed the flow from that filter and you have an unknown bypass pressure which changes the behavior from the filter Subaru designed. Might not matter or it might but most owners on this forum stick with the stock Subaru engine filter even on highly modified engines because it's THAT GOOD and it seems most stay away from the larger more common aftermarket copies of this filter because they are not good. A few run the Amsoil double filters and some like the Purolator but most stick to OEM Subaru!

 

Brembo may put their brand on different things but Google will show you what Brembo's are.

 

Calling Mr Tris, Calling Mr Tris... he'll be here soon to point you in the right direction and assist you from here.

 

See above. If you order by number, you're wrong. If you put $1 oil in a car you actually give a shit about, you're wrong. Also, I know for a fact there are no independent Subaru shops in Vancouver. Take a drive down to Cobb Surgeline if you must take it anywhere. These are not Hondas. In fact, the only thing a Subaru has in common with your Civic is that it has 4 cylinders and is an internal combustion engine. That's about it. Not everyone can work on these cars, and, unless they know these motors specifically (not just "general mechanical knowledge"), they'll likely do you more harm than good. That's a big part of why I insist that people read as much as possible here, so as to have no one else to blame when shit goes wrong.

 

I whole-heartedly disagree with your opinion on changing oil viscosity. I have never had a bad experience with running different motor oils. Changing to a thicker oil as a vehicle gets older can be a smart decision to reduce burning. I ran 10-40 in my Civic which called for 5-30 for a good 15,000 miles. Theoretically, since thicker oil increases viscosity, it increases friction on moving parts, which in turn could reduce mpg/increase wear. Sure, I get that. But in the real world there won't be any measurable side effects. I'm no mechanic but what I have learned I have learned from the best.

 

I understand what oil looks like and what full synthetic is. My friend works at AutoZone and it was on clearance. It happens occasionally so they sell it for $1 a quart. I plan on reverting to 5-30 on the next change. Thicker oils will be for 200k miles when it burns a quart every couple hundred miles like my Civic did :rolleyes:

 

As for the filter, what I really need to do is become more educated on brands of filters and I will read more into it so I can get a better understanding of bypass ratings on certain filters. I chose the large filter because I wanted it to hold MORE debris, instead of it getting clogged and going into bypass mode. I will take your advice and use OEM filters in the future though.

 

I'll get a pic of the shocks to show you guys.

 

Thanks all, I appreciate the input. Do not jump to conclusions though and assume I am clueless :)

 

You're new. You even said you're new. Assume you're clueless (at least for now) so we can all be on the same page.

 

nice wagon man, i like it. also, a lot of people are freaking out on you about the timing belt. common misconception, i would NOT be worried about the belt snapping, whereas i WOULD be worried about teeth on a pulley breaking. that will **** you over just as good. new belt: does not mean you are safe. other than that, things to replace/watch at your mileage (if you got da cash): HEAD GASKETS (do this regardless of your social status, im sure you like a running engine), front control arms, rear bushings, rear axle seals, CV boots, drive belts, spark plugs, oil control valves. anything else im missing?

 

Yes, basic knowledge of LGTs.

 

HG failure is common in the NAs, not so much in the turbos. Granted, you're "technically" correct in that Subarus tend to have HG issues, the 4th Gen GTs are, for the most part, the exception to the rule.

 

Never heard of or seen a pulley break teeth and lose time -- Where are you getting that from?

 

Yes yes I understand on the brakes now. I already feel dumb as is for even saying it :redface:

 

 

Happens to alot of guys. Even happened to me, once. We'll getcha learnt, I promise. ;)

 

I have never owned a turbo car before, no. I suppose there is learning to do. Hence why I came here! I just had another person today tell me how picky these things are.

 

You picked a helluva car to learn on. These aren't entirely forgiving, if at all. You'll pay for your mistakes, likely in spades. But we'll do our best to help you.

I do come from a Honda background, and they're definitely more than forgiving. I drove the piss out of mine and never grannied it and it still runs like a top at 201k miles.

 

Yeah, these don't do that. At about 100k, you really should just start thinking about getting a new shortblock. I'm gonna take a guess that yours is already over 100k, right?

 

I have learned from the girlfriend's father and her family of mechanics, whom I've known for about a decade now.

 

I'll say this time and time again: Wrenching is a learned skill. Specifically, by kinesis. Or, Kinesthetically, if you must classify a learning style. One cannot learn mechanic skills by osmosis, or genetics. Fact.

 

I'm fairly positive it's factory leather. Most likely was ordered as a base with the leather, power seat, and dual HVAC. Who knows.

 

This actually intrigues me. Do you also have the heated wipers and mirrors button near your left knee?

 

I've seen MrTris pick on noobs like myself, so this should be interesting if she shows his face.

 

Here I am. . .

 

 

I'll be keeping an eye out for you. Can't wait to see where this goes.

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Good looking wagon. It gets me thinking more and more I need tinted windows. The fishbowl look only intimidates so many pedestrians...

 

I'm actually shocked when I see an LGT without tint. . . It really does look like a fishbowl!

 

That said, I'm waiting for the summertime specials so I can get mine redone.

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I'm actually shocked when I see an LGT without tint. . . It really does look like a fishbowl!

 

 

 

That said, I'm waiting for the summertime specials so I can get mine redone.

 

 

If you don't mind making the drive up to Skagit county Chili at Tint Shack in Burlington does a really good job and stands by his work. My passenger window started pealing and I called him and he's going to fix it for me when I am back home later this spring.

2005 Vader Wagon

Material Tests on Ringland Failure Piston

I should have held off and purchased a wagon instead of the spec.B
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If you don't mind making the drive up to Skagit county Chili at Tint Shack in Burlington does a really good job and stands by his work. My passenger window started pealing and I called him and he's going to fix it for me when I am back home later this spring.

 

Probably gonna go with Showtime in Tacoma. They've got mucho 5-stars on Yelp, and they're close. Really not trying to pay more than $250 for tint if I can get the good film. Looking for probably 20% all the way around.

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We'll see how long my engine lasts, its at 125k and about to get a vf52. By tris logic it'll explode immediately haha. I think the real issue is that stock these cars have a very lean tune that's prone to detonation. That paired with cast pistons leads to lots of cracked ringlands and leaky exhaust valves. Combine that with people not checking their oil enough and you have an engine that gets a bad rap. I'd say, get the car on a good tune (at least zero the open loop/closed loop delay) and make sure you maintain it well, and it should last just fine.
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We'll see how long my engine lasts, its at 125k and about to get a vf52. By tris logic it'll explode immediately haha. I think the real issue is that stock these cars have a very lean tune that's prone to detonation. That paired with cast pistons leads to lots of cracked ringlands and leaky exhaust valves. Combine that with people not checking their oil enough and you have an engine that gets a bad rap. I'd say, get the car on a good tune (at least zero the open loop/closed loop delay) and make sure you maintain it well, and it should last just fine.

 

IIRC, stock are not technically 'cast', they're hyperutectic, but, just not the best.

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My oh my did this blow up. Lol.

 

I truly appreciate all the advice and help from anyone, really. Don't mind me jumping on the defense so quickly. It's genetic.

 

I'm gonna adopt your itemized reply system.

 

First factor is your location; I HATE Vancouver, WA. Grey, dull, tweeker shithole. Looks like you live in one of the nicer neighborhoods, though. Congrats on your third-tier prize in the genetic lottery, I guess. Either way, your locale disincentivises me to really exert any effort on your behalf.

 

I suppose that works in my favor. I like Vancouver, but I also grew up here and don't work here. So I am probably biased.

 

Doesn't really do you much good, when you think about it. If your engine is experiencing enough wear to the rotating parts to overwhelm a correct size filter, a bigger filter is only a bigger shit-net and a sort-of gauze patch, not even a bandaid, to your actual problem.

 

Lesson learned. OEM filters and Rota 6 from now on.

 

I hope this gamble works out for you, I really do. The biggest thing you need to understand is that these are not cheap cars to own and maintain. I highly recommend that you already have your adult life mostly sorted, otherwise, you can plan on staying in Mom's basement and listening to lectures about how you should be out on your own and providing for yourself for a lot longer. You're not stuck with this car, you can sell it at any time; you choose to keep it out of ego and/or idiocy -- I'll let you mix and match on that one.

 

All those Bros you see with their flatbill'd hats, tatted sleeves and Affliction shirts to match their WRB STi? Yeah, what they're not telling you is that they're broke and behind on Child Support, up to their eyeballs in debt. And even then, the car gets the bare minimum to survive while they beat the shit out of it, trying to impress girls by rolling Hondas on the freeway.

 

Yeah I made sure to be super aware of this costs of owning this car. I'm already paying out the ass monthly for it, but I fully expect to and am prepared to shell out thousands in the coming years. Oh well. Fortunately for me, I am an adult who with a mostly sorted life.

 

See above. If you order by number, you're wrong. If you put $1 oil in a car you actually give a shit about, you're wrong. Also, I know for a fact there are no independent Subaru shops in Vancouver. Take a drive down to Cobb Surgeline if you must take it anywhere. These are not Hondas. In fact, the only thing a Subaru has in common with your Civic is that it has 4 cylinders and is an internal combustion engine. That's about it. Not everyone can work on these cars, and, unless they know these motors specifically (not just "general mechanical knowledge"), they'll likely do you more harm than good. That's a big part of why I insist that people read as much as possible here, so as to have no one else to blame when shit goes wrong.

 

Noted. Not far from my work. How convenient.

 

You're new. You even said you're new. Assume you're clueless (at least for now) so we can all be on the same page.

 

Happens to alot of guys. Even happened to me, once. We'll getcha learnt, I promise. ;)

 

You picked a helluva car to learn on. These aren't entirely forgiving, if at all. You'll pay for your mistakes, likely in spades. But we'll do our best to help you.

 

Yeah, these don't do that. At about 100k, you really should just start thinking about getting a new shortblock. I'm gonna take a guess that yours is already over 100k, right?

 

Assumption made.

 

110k. Why should I start thinking about it? Are you saying I should replace it before it blows?

 

This actually intrigues me. Do you also have the heated wipers and mirrors button near your left knee?

 

Yer, I do. Which reminds me, does anyone know what the other two empty button slots over there are used for?

 

I actually came to love LGTs from joyriding often in an 05 LGT wagon owned by an old room mate. He'd let me borrow it for stuff, and even took it on a few roadtrips. Back then, I knew how to turn the key and pump gas. But I fell in love with the car. I had no idea how rare or unique they were at the time. Fast forward about 2 years, I had been educating myself to the best of my ability on Subys and began looking for an LGT. My Civic started having electrical issues. So I said **** it and bought one of my dream cars. Sappy and tacky story, I know. But it's how it went.

 

I truly despise STi owners. I appreciate the cars for what they are, but real bros own them and I refuse to be a part of that crowd. When I told friends I was buying a Subaru, all of them said "oh you're getting an STi?"

 

I have to say, I am shocked. I never thought a car could be so picky. But you have all proven it to me.

 

I have been Tris'd. And sigma'd.

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