ClimberDHexMods Posted October 31, 2012 Author Share Posted October 31, 2012 I'll post this here in hopes for a response, Every parts site I've looked doesnt show a difference in front axles/cv boot kits between manual and auto trans Is this actually the case that they use the same axle/boots? Doesn't seem right to me It's actually the case The parts of the diff that receive the male axle stubs are the same. [CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zachste Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 It's actually the case The parts of the diff that receive the male axle stubs are the same. my mind is officially blown! Thanks for the response sir! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted November 1, 2012 Moderators Share Posted November 1, 2012 I'm looking for a diagram that details the flow of transmission fluid to include the 5EAT, radiator, and filter. I seem to recall seeing one at one point and can't find it--need it to wrap my brain around where the hell I'm gonna have to add in my fluid control thermostat. It's getting chilly and I think the transmission cooler is likely going to overcool things if I don't get this thermostat added in soon. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimberDHexMods Posted November 1, 2012 Author Share Posted November 1, 2012 I pieced it together in the past by looking at the diagrams on opposedforces.com/parts. I forgot again whether fluid flows from driver side to passenger side or vise versa through the radiator, but IIRC it's passenger to driver. Check first. Once you confirm that detail, you can trace the whole thing easily. That said, anywhere is fine as long as it's after the radiator. If you want to be a perfectionist, put it after the filter, before fluid returns to the trans. But again, it's a cooler thermostat install, not turbo selection. [CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted November 1, 2012 Moderators Share Posted November 1, 2012 Right now I think my setup runs from transmission-->radiator-->cooler-->filter-->transmission I'm hoping to put the thermostat in between the radiator and the cooler. The system should run just like stock unless extra cooling is needed, in which case the thermostat will divert the fluid through the aftermarket cooler. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimberDHexMods Posted November 1, 2012 Author Share Posted November 1, 2012 Right now I think my setup runs from transmission-->radiator-->cooler-->filter-->transmission I'm hoping to put the thermostat in between the radiator and the cooler. The system should run just like stock unless extra cooling is needed, in which case the thermostat will divert the fluid through the aftermarket cooler. Sounds great, post pics [CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted November 2, 2012 Share Posted November 2, 2012 anyone experience a shudder or shake through 1st gear flat out? It does it only when it's cold out I would say. I would say it is more audible than actually a vibration through the car. I keep thinking it is a rear diff or center diff issue.... Feedback? I will be doing a boost leak test tomorrow as there is a noticeable hiss and pshhh on and off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattsl Posted November 2, 2012 Share Posted November 2, 2012 All mine does it a sort of backfire when it's warm and you can hear it through the exhaust popping, and it'll be rediculously low on RPM when it's warm as well, causing the car to shudder. I removed the plug for the air filter and cleaned it up and reinstalled it, so tomorrow morning, I'll take her out for a spin and find out if it does anything. Doubt it, but we can dream. Plus, doesn't take time to do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted November 2, 2012 Share Posted November 2, 2012 07 5EAT(obviously) - when in "manual" S or S# while accelerating from 2nd to 3rd or 3rd to 4th and flooring it to merge on the freeway once I hit around 4500+RPMs the car will shift up. This happens 60% of the time. If I ease into the throttle it seems to lessen the issue, though you can't always just ease into it for merging and such. It seems more frequent in S# mode. Previously I thought it was losing power as the RPM's jumped from 4500+ to 2500ish. I've been watching and it automatically shifts. If I leave it in auto mode there is no issue. And no I'm not going to just leave it in auto mode. Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rome_STI Posted November 4, 2012 Share Posted November 4, 2012 In terms of the comments on here that a transmission cooler will sometimes overcool which could be a bad thing... I have a Zero/sports transmission cooler yet to be installed. Given that Australia doesn't really get as cold days as you do in the States (the coldest nights in my area in winter would be around 5-15 degrees Celsius, or 41-59 degrees Fahrenheit), would I really experience much of this problem? I would say the temperature I would be driving around in would typically be from around 15C-30C, sometimes getting up to 40C in the summer (59F-86F, up to 104F). Thoughts would be appreciated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted November 5, 2012 Mega Users Share Posted November 5, 2012 A thermostat would be a good idea. You won't notice any problems from overcooling. It will most likely only lower your mpg from the torque converter staying unlocked longer when it's cold. It won't damage anything, just mess with efficiency. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rome_STI Posted November 5, 2012 Share Posted November 5, 2012 (edited) A thermostat would be a good idea. You won't notice any problems from overcooling. It will most likely only lower your mpg from the torque converter staying unlocked longer when it's cold. It won't damage anything, just mess with efficiency. My car's performance is more important than my fuel efficiency lol! Basically once the fluid and torque converter has warmed up it won't be an issue at all? PS looking at mounting the tranny cooler up in the top part of the engine bay where the top mount used to be as all that is up there now is an oil catch can! Edited November 5, 2012 by Rome_STI Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgt_nube Posted November 5, 2012 Share Posted November 5, 2012 That's pretty much the range of temps here in the San Francisco Bay Area, with 100F being common as we drive East through the central valley in the summer. My point is that I've never even heard of a transmission cooler or anyone using or needing one here. the coldest nights in my area in winter would be around 5-15 degrees Celsius, or 41-59 degrees Fahrenheit I would say the temperature I would be driving around in would typically be from around 15C-30C, sometimes getting up to 40C in the summer (59F-86F, up to 104F). A few photos of the LGT My current ride Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted November 5, 2012 Mega Users Share Posted November 5, 2012 My car's performance is more important than my fuel efficiency lol! Basically once the fluid and torque converter has warmed up it won't be an issue at all? PS looking at mounting the tranny cooler up in the top part of the engine bay where the top mount used to be as all that is up there now is an oil catch can! I've found that without a thermostat, the atf fluid will not fully heat up with commute driving and low temps. I don't think my temps got over 130F last time I logged it. It was in the 40's out (i think) and I was driving very old lady like. Again, this is not going to damage anything, but it will change the way the TCC engages. No TCC engagement means less power making it to the wheels. Once you start beating on the car, the temps will rise. This all depends on how you're driving. Without an external cooler, it took back to back 3rd gear pulls in hot weather to get my atf higher than I was comfortable with. If you aren't beating on your car in hot weather, you may want to log some atf temps to see whether it's even worth it. Either way, the best option is to add a thermostat. Best of both worlds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brett Posted November 5, 2012 Share Posted November 5, 2012 i think it's a good time to replace my transmission fluid. what is the best fluid to use? does synchro shift have products for subaru's? i had ran that in my vw's transmission Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted November 5, 2012 Moderators Share Posted November 5, 2012 i think it's a good time to replace my transmission fluid. what is the best fluid to use? does synchro shift have products for subaru's? i had ran that in my vw's transmission Just run stock fluid--Subaru ATF HP+, I believe. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brett Posted November 5, 2012 Share Posted November 5, 2012 alright, thanks. something tells me that it was never changed before i bought the car (74k miles) is there a how-to write up for this and a unique tool to do the job? yes, my vw had a unique tool needed for the filler hole bolt. made the process a real pita. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted November 5, 2012 Moderators Share Posted November 5, 2012 alright, thanks. something tells me that it was never changed before i bought the car (74k miles) is there a how-to write up for this and a unique tool to do the job? yes, my vw had a unique tool needed for the filler hole bolt. made the process a real pita. It's either gonna be a T70 Torx bit or a hex bit (9mm, maybe), or simply the square on the end of a 3/8" drive ratchet. I don't remember which mine had and folks seem to have different drain plugs sometimes. You'll need a crush washer for the drain plug. Just drain out the fluid into a jug and measure how much came out (pour it into a milk just and eyeball it). Then add about the same amount back in, maybe a little less. Park on level ground, let it warm up, scroll through the "gears" and put it back in park. Add a bit of extra fluid as needed, but be careful not to overfill. It's basically an oil change without a filter and you need to be extra careful not to over fill it. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted November 5, 2012 Mega Users Share Posted November 5, 2012 Torx bit is for the front diff IIRC. You don't wanna drain that and then dump 4qts of atf in the transmission... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted November 5, 2012 Moderators Share Posted November 5, 2012 Torx bit is for the front diff IIRC. You don't wanna drain that and then dump 4qts of atf in the transmission... All I know is that the bits listed in the walkthrough on the site were not correct when I changed my trans fluid and diff fluid. All of the bits listed were required, just not exactly where they said they were required. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated Too laff79 Posted November 5, 2012 I Donated Too Share Posted November 5, 2012 hex/allen for ATF, torx for diff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brett Posted November 5, 2012 Share Posted November 5, 2012 this might sound dumb, but i'm in the wrong thread. i have a manual lmao. will the same transmission fluid still apply to the manual? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rome_STI Posted November 6, 2012 Share Posted November 6, 2012 Just to be clear, I wouldn't be getting a transmission cooler for the purpose of normal driving, it would be there to help cooling when I take my car to the drags and track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted November 6, 2012 Moderators Share Posted November 6, 2012 this might sound dumb, but i'm in the wrong thread. i have a manual lmao. will the same transmission fluid still apply to the manual? MIGHT sound dumb Use Subaru extra-s fluid. I'm pretty sure you the 5mt gearbox shares the fluid with the front diff. You can order the extra-s from Fred beans parts for a reasonable amount. Do not use ATF (AUTOMATIC Transmission Fluid), lol "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted November 6, 2012 Share Posted November 6, 2012 Auto has separate front diff and trans fluid, they are not shared MT share the fluid with the front diff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now