gmariusica Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 Hello I have a clunking(knocking) noise when I steer left, the noise come out only when I drive the car in D or 3rd,2nd,1st, steering in N is quiet. Also the noise seems to come more from the center-right side of the car and not from the wheels. Do you know what can it be???? It is a Legacy 1996 with 260k, also I have the right strut leaking for more than 1 year, I was thinking that this might be one of the problems but...I have no clue. Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TbirdMan Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 CV joint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lookatmyrust Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 cv joint 4 sure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmariusica Posted April 3, 2011 Author Share Posted April 3, 2011 Thank you. I will have a look next week but the real work will be at the end of April. I have to drive for the work commute another 2 weeks aprox. 50km/day. Is interesting how the noise disappear when I'm in neutral... Thank you one more time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TbirdMan Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 the reason it goes away in N is the CV is not under any stress, it is basically freewheeling, when it is in gear there is torque being applied to the CV and thus the clunking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lookatmyrust Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 its the cv joint is so worn out that when turning the joint is skipping balls. cut the boot off the old alxe and you will see what i mean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmariusica Posted April 4, 2011 Author Share Posted April 4, 2011 After some research I found that is better to change the whole axle, there is no point to open the old one and fix it, so I think I'll go with that. The only issue right now is the price which goes from 60-70$ to 300-400$ / 1Axle. How bad are those cheap ones??? is it worth it?? For 200$(instead of 700$) both I don't mind to change the whole axle again after 3-4 years, I'm thinking not to have other troubles in diferential or gear box because of the cheap axle... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TbirdMan Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 cheap ones are fine, they are just rebuilt rather than brand new, but they are professionally rebuilt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lookatmyrust Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 yea im running 75 dollar axle on my 96 and the one is starting to go bad but my whole tranny is bad which dont help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kd5zmg Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 Hey do you have an AT or MT? I did both my axles 2 weeks ago. Picked up the Autozone Lifetime Warranty Axles both for $12 with tax here in Tx. Took 3 hours to install and the passenger side is what killed us due to the Cat being in the way. Note: Gillman Subaru here in S.A. Tx wanted $900+ tax to do my axles, both left and right... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subikid90 Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 Hey do you have an AT or MT? I did both my axles 2 weeks ago. Picked up the Autozone Lifetime Warranty Axles both for $12 with tax here in Tx. Took 3 hours to install and the passenger side is what killed us due to the Cat being in the way. Note: Gillman Subaru here in S.A. Tx wanted $900+ tax to do my axles, both left and right... OEM axles are $140 each. Plus they want to do an alignment when you have them replaced because they drop the hub from the strut. Plus 3 hrs of labor. $280-Axles $100-Alignment $480-4hrs Labor ------------------ $860 before taxes The joy of dealerships raping you -Subikid90 1997 Legacy GT 5spd & EJ251 w/EJ25D heads ~10.5CR 1998 Legacy GT Limited waiting for EJ22T hybrid swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slimfast Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 had both rear struts and the front left axel replaced today for $650 edit: actually it was $700 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmariusica Posted April 6, 2011 Author Share Posted April 6, 2011 $140 OEM sounds good to me but the labor hours...is too much... so I'll do it by my self, I have enough time, slow and nice, no rush and then at the end I'll pay for the alignment. O!! BTW I have to change in the same time, front struts and front wheel bearings, I think I'll go with the whole assembly wheel hub+bearing. PS. Any good advice for this project will be more than welcome. Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subikid90 Posted April 6, 2011 Share Posted April 6, 2011 Axles can be found for ~$100 for OEM online, but there are many other rebuild axles for $50 each. You dont need an alignment if you unbolt the control arm from the frame of the car. If you want to be sure nothing comes out of alignment then mark your strut bolts before you start. If you are doing struts then you will need an alignment, and doing axles when you have the struts out will make it a very quick and easy job. If you want a bit of an upgrade try finding 02-07 struts/springs/tophats with low miles (<50k) and swap them in. They bolt right in and make a night and day difference. Search around and you will see what many people say about the set up. And you can find the complete set for <$200 a lot of times. No reason to replace the whole hub unless it is cheaper then having a wheel bearing pressed out and then a new one pressed in. I dont think that will be the case though. -Subikid90 1997 Legacy GT 5spd & EJ251 w/EJ25D heads ~10.5CR 1998 Legacy GT Limited waiting for EJ22T hybrid swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XxaltezzaxX Posted April 6, 2011 Share Posted April 6, 2011 just replaced my passenger side axle this week. was getting the clunking while turning and also going in reverse. needless to say, i broke it good. http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u77/XxaltezzaxX_photo/9cdbdaaa.jpg the pin that holds the axle to the trans on the female side was a bitch to take out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesm113 Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 gmariusica-this should help:http://nerdsontheinternet.com/subaru-legacy-cv-axle-replacement/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmariusica Posted May 1, 2011 Author Share Posted May 1, 2011 Hello again today I start replacing my CV Axle. Everything went good at first stage-removing: the axle nut, ball joint, stabilizer bar link, spring spin and the inner joint. The problem is the outer joint, it doesn't want to come out...I don't really know what to do. I kiked the axle with a rubber hammer and it moved half inch, but that was all. Should I try to use a bigger hammer??? I'm trying to find a place where I can rent a axle puller but here in Vancouver BC is hard to find...I don't know why. The main question is: Should I go with more strong hammering or be patient and find a axle puller??? I forgot to mention that I worked accordingly with this link: http://nerdsontheinternet.com/subaru-legacy-cv-axle-replacement/ which so far was really good. Many thanks to whom posted and to whom sent the link to me plus to everyone who contribute to this thread. ) Marius. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lojasmo Posted May 1, 2011 Share Posted May 1, 2011 Bigger hammer. You are replacing the whole axle, right? Should not matter if you do some damage to this one. Edit: Double R Rentals 604 946-4011 4836 Elliott St. Delta, BC * Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmariusica Posted May 1, 2011 Author Share Posted May 1, 2011 I was thinking the same way, bigger hammer. I the meanwhile I found a Powerbuilt® Heavy-Duty Gear Puller and it might work with this one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lojasmo Posted May 1, 2011 Share Posted May 1, 2011 I was thinking the same way, bigger hammer. I the meanwhile I found a Powerbuilt® Heavy-Duty Gear Puller and it might work with this one. I posted the address and number of a local shop that will rent the proper tool, as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmariusica Posted May 4, 2011 Author Share Posted May 4, 2011 http://flic.kr/p/9EDGHitoday after few days of work that piece of rusty crap still didn't want to come out. I rented a proper shaft puller and nothing happened even if I applied lot of pressure on those puller jaws. have a look at the drawing I was thinking to take a cold chiselhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/24249880@N08/5688237091/ and start cutting nr.13 baffle plate maybe I can make the snap ring nr.15 to pop out and make some space there...but I"m not sure if it's going to help me or not. Any other ideas, opinions... http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k124/gmariusica/CVAxledrawing.jpg http://flic.kr/p/9EDGHi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lojasmo Posted May 5, 2011 Share Posted May 5, 2011 Cannot see your diagrams. Liquid wrench on all rusty spots. Then hit everything with a BFH. Sounds to me like your pin is not out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmariusica Posted May 5, 2011 Author Share Posted May 5, 2011 no no the pin is out same with that side of the shaft. the problem is in the wheel hub Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesm113 Posted May 5, 2011 Share Posted May 5, 2011 can you move the axle off the transmission stub? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmariusica Posted May 5, 2011 Author Share Posted May 5, 2011 yes I can. the axle joint came out of the transmission stub very easy from the first time and now is sitting on the lower suspension arm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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