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IAM issues. .875 at idle. Bone stock


Evnldr

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Looking over the search threads cant find other than ring lands.. what causes my IAM .875 . Stock, only thing I have added was a boost gauge,, for the hell of it I removed it and same result.

I have attached a log waiting on my new cable to do a LV. don't want to hurt aything.. If I should log anything to help let me know. I do have a ticking but I seem to remember its normal. Its a 2005 5eat with 36K on it.

Maybe its something I have overlooked. I looked at the maf looks clean.

 

http://www.evnldr.com/CCTV/romraiderlog_20131003_065945.csv

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Please post a LV when you are able, that will help to see the "big picture".

 

As far as your RR log goes, I'm not seeing much as far as knock. However, your fuel corrections seem to have large swings. Possible boost leak?

BtSsm - Android app/Bluetooth adapter. LV, logging, gauges and more. For 05-14 Legacy (GT, 2.5, 3.0, 3.6), 02-14 WRX, 04-14 STi, 04-14 FXT, 05-09 OBXT
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Yes but I forget stuff, and I forgot to save a profile for it. Looking over past post I'm going to say you said to log the following:

 

A/F Learning #1 (%)

Boost Error* (psi)

Engine Load (4-byte)

Engine Speed (rpm)

Feedback Knock Correction (4-byte)* (degrees)

Knock Correction Advance (degrees)

Knock Correction Advance (IAM only)* (degrees)

Knock Sum* (count)

Manifold Relative Pressure (4-byte)* (psi relative)

Mass Airflow (g/s)

A/F Sensor #1 (AFR)

IAM (4-byte)* (multiplier)

Ignition Total Timing (degrees)

In Gear

 

Look good?

Will see how many I can get before I have to kick some out.

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lol, I'm gonna hurt you... Manifold RELATIVE pressure. Also add in Throttle Opening Angle.

 

Try to get that LV. It helps a lot.

 

There doesn't appear to be any large amounts of knocking anywhere except maybe around 2600-2800 at 1.4-1.5 load.... Your IAM is already reduced so the fact that you're still pulling timing could mean there's a problem there.

 

I sort of want to tell you to reset the ECU and go log again after IAM reaches 1 (you have to drive around a bit after a reset to get it back to 1).

 

But resetting your ECU wipes out your LV, and I really want that LV first....

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Little trick: put your car into 3rd or 4th, about 2,000rpm and give it consistent 30% throttle angle and if your car is running properly, this usually will get your IAM to 1 quickly.
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You're missing FLKC (1-byte). Change the FBKC to (1-byte) also. And you need Primary WGDC.

 

 

iNVAR,

 

Curious why you like to log the lower byte rate for fbkc and flkc? I like to log both a 4 byte. I know it takes some extra read speed, but with those parameters, I like to ensure nothing is missed.

I can see if logging is being done with a vag-com cable the need to drop to the lower reading speed, but the Tactrix cable seems to handle it fine.

(the 5th gen's ecu reads even faster).

 

I'm not questioning your abilities, just curious :)

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1-byte/4-byte doesn't (or it shouldn't) affect resolution or ability to catch a knock...only the precision. I treat FLKC and FBKC as parameters where if I knock, it's good enough for me to know that I knocked and how (FBKC vs FLKC.... this is why I knock both in addition to Knock Sum), and not necessarily the degree that I knocked. If I knock and FBKC pulls -2.11 vs. -3.84 (I think that's it) I don't really care. I just know that there's knock and I should look into it at least and see if it reoccurs.

 

Further, I don't think that the difference in precision between 1-byte and 4-byte is enough to cause a knock to register as -3.84 under 4-byte but only -2.11 under 1-byte.

 

As such, I would rather squeeze out more resolution by reducing the amount of bandwidth required. I also use IAM 1-byte for the same reason.

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Fair enough, I appreciate your explanation. I like understanding other people's reasoning. The 07 and newer read at a higher rate, so I generaly log 4 byte on both flkc and fbkc. Not a bad idea though to go lower with the 05-06.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk now Free

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I sort of want to tell you to reset the ECU and go log again after IAM reaches 1 (you have to drive around a bit after a reset to get it back to 1).

 

But resetting your ECU wipes out your LV, and I really want that LV first....

Going to be a while on the cable... seller sent the same shit cable even after saying it was the correct one. So should I just pull it and give it a week to correct it's self?

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still left out fbkc, but nothing really odd for a stock map pull. Only knock event appears right after letting off after WOT. Boost is a bit low. Target is 13.54psi from 2,400rpm to 3,600rpm. Nothing of major concern though.
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