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6MT Master Swap Thread


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Is there a thread or post regarding the 5*110-STI/Hyundai -recipe?

 

As I recall when I did my swap there was some minor issue with the bezel and boot cover. I made it all work ok though. As long as you are replacing it I would go with the Spec B parts if they are different.

 

I know the Spec B shifter rods were much better fitment than the 5 speed.

 

Some good news from Russia for those, who want to get R180 on their B13 legacy but for some reason can't get Spec B axles.

 

We successfully installed R180 on 03' JDM legacy GT(B13 started from 2003 in japan), using pre-5*114 axles from 03' JDM GDB STI(30 splines on both ends of the inner shaft, AFAIK it's the same as US pre-5*114). We used outer CV joints from (you must get mentally ready) hyundai elantra. P/N MEYLE 37-14 498 0000. One car is running them with IHI VF42 for at least 50000 kms without faults, other just got them on.

 

Splines count:

LGT hub - 25

STI inner shaft - 30.

 

Swap is a direct bolt-on, CV joints went in as if they were manufactured for that exact reason.

Don't know the situation with parts in US, but here it's almost impossible to get your hands on used spec B axles, and for new ones you have to wait a month and pay ~$1200.

STI axles are easy to find wherever you want, and usual price is $300 for pair. Meyle CV's are $100 for pair and can be found in any shop.

 

9080978s-960.jpg

 

^this. Page 120 on this thread.

 

Maybe I should ask if 6MT shifter boot will fit on to 5MT LGT bezel?

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I've done a ton of search and research but haven't concluded 100%-sure if 5MT shifter bezel and boot cover are possible to use with 6MT?

Anyway I want to renew my shifter boot so should I go 6MT or 5MT model?

 

Thanks!

Bezel is fine from 5MT, boot is way different. 6MT boot attaches to 5MT bezel in same way.
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Excellent! Thank you!

Then I'll just get an aftermarket shifter and e-brake boot.

You can use an STi shifter or a Spec B shifter with the 6MT. They're interchangeable, as long as you get the correct boot. STi boot goes with STi shifter, Spec B boot goes with Spec B shifter. They only real difference is how the boot attaches to the shift lever itself. You can make it work either way (I did), but you'll make it easier on yourself if you get the right one.

Tits mcgee
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  • 3 weeks later...

I need some help finding the source of a problem: I purchased the Spec B. Shifter Rod and Stay to center the shift lever, but the first shop I brought it to said that they couldn't get it to fit.

 

I bought my car with a 2008 STi 6-speed already swapped in and it also has a 6-speed SPT short shifter included, though whether it is the STi or Spec B. versions I do not know.

 

I'm thinking of bringing my car to AZP to have them do the job, but does anyone know what could be the source of the fitment issue. Thanks in advance.

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Bessie II's Thread

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I need some help finding the source of a problem: I purchased the Spec B. Shifter Rod and Stay to center the shift lever, but the first shop I brought it to said that they couldn't get it to fit.

 

I bought my car with a 2008 STi 6-speed already swapped in and it also has a 6-speed SPT short shifter included, though whether it is the STi or Spec B. versions I do not know.

 

I'm thinking of bringing my car to AZP to have them do the job, but does anyone know what could be the source of the fitment issue. Thanks in advance.

 

Did they tell you what didn't fit? I swapped a 6sp in my car and used a stock STi 6sp shifter and bought the two rods as directed by this thread. One thing that I didn't find in this thread (it may very well be in here somewhere) is that the reverse lockout cable is not long enough on the stock STi shifter. I had to make an extension to get it to work. I say this because you said that the shop said that it "didn't work" but you didn't mention exactly what didn't work. Maybe the rods are fine and the lockout cable is what's not working.

 

Also, if you purchased the spec b rods and the shifter is what's unknown, just buy a used 6sp shifter. They're relatively cheap and if that solves your problem, then it's worth it. We KNOW that a stock 02-07 STi shifter with spec b rods works in our cars.

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Hmm, thanks for the input. The garage did not mention what specifically did not fit, except for a vague suggestion that I get a short shifter. I think it may just be a better idea to have the guys at AZP figure out exactly what's going on.

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Bessie II's Thread

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Has anyone ran into this problem.. My Invidia catless downpipe does not meet up with my SPT exhaust correctly. I'm getting a big leak around the top of the two flanges. I am running a BNR 18g, Invidia uppipe, OEM legacy gt motor mounts and a v7 impreza STi trans mount. My SPT exhaust is hanging from OEM rubber hangers. I'm wondering if the Spec B trans mount is a bit thinner than the STi one which would drop the rear of the trans a little bit and line up the flanges.
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Also, a little bit of information for those that get an STi shift linkage. You can buy a 07+ Spec B stay rod and shifter rod so that it puts the shifter in the center of the console opening. You will reuse the STi shift lever and reverse lockout cable as well as the rubber boot thing on the bottom. If you plan on upgrading to an aftermarket shifter and are using the STi shift linkage, only 04-07 STi lever will work as after having a discussion and sending pictures to Tom @ Kartboy, he said that only the 04-07 STi shift lever will work with the STi linkage setup.

 

Part #'s for those that have STi shift linkages and want to center their shifters without cutting/welding/spacing:

 

Spec B Shifter Rod: 35041AG020

Spec B Shifter Stay: 35031AG020

Does anyone know the part no. for the 07 STi shift lever in question here?

 

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Edited by Enlight

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Bessie II's Thread

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^ There's multiple parts to it, but number 11 is

2007 - 35011AG050

2008+ - 35011AG051

AFAICD, those P/Ns are for complete shifters with all of the ancillary (items 8, 9 12, 13, 19, 20, and 22) bits as well, for about $62.00 each. Check with your VIN with your dealer.

 

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- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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I've having a small issue with the cruise control after my 07' speb b trans swap in my 05' wagon. Every 30 miles or so the cruise control is disengaging itself, like the 'cancel' button was pushed. I need to cycle cruise off/on and shift the car into neutral, shift back to 6th and it works just fine again for 30 mins or so. Everything was fine pre swap. Any thoughts? Edited by Holla
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Have you adjusted your gear determination thresholds to match the new ratios?

 

 

Sent from a device using some software.

Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
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What about the neutral switch? I used the one from the 6mt.
You need to use the switch from your 05 trans, check with this link: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/soa-5mt-cruise-control-fix-incompatible-ap-tdc-reflash-48638.html

 

Basically the 2005 model used a Neutral Safety Switch that is opposite in function to the 2006+ models ( Normally Open on one, Normally Closed on the other ). IIRC I had to splice in the 2005 NSS due to the location on top/back of the 6MT trans.

 

Also note you may have to shim the NSS if you continue to have issues.

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No, how would I go about adjusting them?

 

What about the neutral switch? I used the one from the 6mt.

 

 

Have access to the ECU via Opensource or Cobb AP? I made a spreadsheet you can use to calculate the thresholds.

 

You can log the neutral switch position and see what that does, but basically if you had the wrong switch you wouldn't be able to engage cruise control in the first place.

 

 

Sent from a device using some software.

Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
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Thanks for the link ktmrider. I was thinking the same thing about the switch though. I would have to imagine it wouldn't be working at all. For the time being I'll need to find some time to reduce the washer size.

 

What are the gear determination thresholds controlling? I currently don't have any way to modify them. I had my car protuned a few years ago but the tuner had all the software. With this trans swap I'll be doing fueling mods in the spring and I'll probably end up getting an AP though.

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These thresholds are simply numbers the ECU uses to determine which gear is in use via this value, engine rpm and vehicle speed. If the numbers are close to being possible for two gears that might spook the ECU to kick out of cruise. Few tuners will bother looking at these parameters unless you ask and I've heard of symptoms like this before.

 

Otherwise, look at the neutral signal and the clutch pedal switch. Either of those flickering could trigger this.

 

Sent from a device using some software.

Edited by fahr_side
Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
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Today I completed a 6 speed swap into my 07 OBXT. A quick summary

 

Trans and rear diff were from a 2009 STi with 37k. Sent it to Rallispec to get a long ratio gear set installed and super glad I did. Turns out the center diff needed to be rebuilt!

 

The rear axles are the 04 STi/ Hyundai outer cv combo and they seem to work well. Only slight drawback is the splines on the Hyundai cv are slightly shorter than the Subaru ones. This also means that the axles nut just barely tightens on enough for the cotter pin to be inserted. Part number on the cv joint is Febest # 0410-007. Not sure how long I'll keep this setup but for now it works.

 

Dccd controller is from Mapdccd. Install went super smooth and it fits in the center console perfectly. I needed to extend the wires about a foot so they could reach near the ECM but other than that no issues. Matt from Mapdccd was super helpful and responded to emails very quickly.

 

The driveshaft is from an 07 4 speed outback at it fits well. I drilled the rear diff input flange so it would fit.

Stock STi shifter is centered perfectly.

 

Can't think of anything else to mention other than the trans and engine were a pain in the butt to separate!!!! I'll be sure update on this thread if anything comes up but for now I'm a happy camper.

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$3k for parts is a decent deal. $1k for labor. Plus a clutch, $1k or so for OEM.

 

So yeah, $5k plus or minus is a decent bet. DCCD will increase cost a bit, aftermarket clutches, needing new spec.b axles, etc.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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Thanks for the link ktmrider. I was thinking the same thing about the switch though. I would have to imagine it wouldn't be working at all. For the time being I'll need to find some time to reduce the washer size.

Yes you are correct. I missed that you installed a Spec-B trans, my comment about swapping NSS sensors is for the STI 'box into a 2005 Leggy.

 

Shimming the NSS should solve your problem.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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