stm25rs Posted June 27, 2013 Share Posted June 27, 2013 I was accelerating pretty hard in 3rd. Around 4500 rpm, fuel cut, CEL came on and cruise started flashing. This is the first CEL I've had in the ~4000 miles I've had the car, and the fuel cut was pretty scary. I pulled over, pulled the code (torque app + android), P0244 - Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid A Range/Performance, then looked it up on here. Overboost code, sounded harmless enough so I cleared it, and kept driving, just accelerating softly and shifting at around 3k rpm to stay out of boost. My car is all stock - could potentially have a stage 1 from previous owner, but I have no reason to think that's the case. From reading on here, it sounded unusual to get that code on an unmodified car. I've attached a couple of pictures. It's a little hard to see, but the line that comes off of the wastegate towards the front of the vehicle is broken. I'm no expert, but I think that's my problem. A couple questions: Where does that line go/what needs to be removed to replace it? Does anybody know the replacement part number, or should I just remove the broken line and take it to an auto part store? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heticor Posted June 27, 2013 Share Posted June 27, 2013 That is the line use to control the valve that opens a close the waste gate. The hose connect from the turbocharger compressor outlet, charge pipes, or intake manifold to the nipple on the wastegate actuator. The wastegate will open further as the boost pressure pushes against the force of the spring the wastegate actuator until equilibrium is obtained. . If the line is open the boost will be increased considerable. I don’t know if there is a part number of piece of rubber hose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 27, 2013 Share Posted June 27, 2013 Just go to the auto parts store and buy a couple feet of the correct size rubber vacuum hose. Replace the piece with the hole in it. You'll want to zip tie all the vacuum lines too, Most of us have learned that lesson. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stm25rs Posted June 27, 2013 Author Share Posted June 27, 2013 Just go to the auto parts store and buy a couple fett of the correct size rubber vacuum hose. Replace the piece with the hole in it. You'll want to zip tie all the vacuum lines too, Most of us have learned that lesson. Where does the hose goes to? I'm a noob DIYer, so I like to have a pretty complete idea of what I'm doing before getting started. Also, for the zipties, any special temperature requirements? I ask because one of my internships involved quality engineering with small engines. We started getting a rash of issues, that turned out to be caused by switching ziptie suppliers - the new ones melted in harsh service. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 27, 2013 Share Posted June 27, 2013 Any name brand like Thomas Bett's is good for zip ties. http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/ Your'll find the vacuum hose in the back of the manual. up around page 5040, just look back there. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HarryD Posted June 27, 2013 Share Posted June 27, 2013 For the particular line to the wastegate actuator that you are showing, you only need around 2 inches of 5/32" vacuum line. It goes to a "T" fitting between the wastegate and the compressor side (Aluminum housing), of the turbo. be careful with the line on the other side of the "T" that goes to the compressor as the line on that side of the "T" has a "pill" in it. The pill is a brass insert with a small metering hole to reduce the air pressure from the compressor to the wastgate as part of the bleed solenoid system. The line already has spring loaded clamps that you can put back on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stm25rs Posted June 27, 2013 Author Share Posted June 27, 2013 Thanks for all the information. It was tough pulling the old hose off of the barbs, so I used a razor to cut it lengthwise and kind of peeled it off. The new hose went on pretty easily, and the car's back to normal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted June 28, 2013 Share Posted June 28, 2013 You'll want to zip tie all the vacuum lines too, Most of us have learned that lesson. I would even use a hose clamp to make sure. Hard to get those zip ties on well enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stm25rs Posted June 28, 2013 Author Share Posted June 28, 2013 Both of the lines on the horizontal parts of the T (my line that broke and the one that goes to the compressor side of the turbo) have spring loaded clamps on them. I couldn't really see the hose going down off the T. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 28, 2013 Share Posted June 28, 2013 If you get time some day look around in fornt of the tmic and you'll find a few more vacuum lines, they should all be zip tied. If you want to pull the tmic it will be easier to see them all. only remove the the big clamp from the tmic. Leave the TB hose on the TB, do not remove that. It can be a PITA to line back up, hint, the white dot goes at 12 o'clock. Line up the two bolts on the turbo to tmic carefully the threads are aluminum. Oh anti-sieze compound is your friend, use it on all nuts and bolts. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stm25rs Posted June 28, 2013 Author Share Posted June 28, 2013 If you get time some day look around in fornt of the tmic and you'll find a few more vacuum lines, they should all be zip tied. If you want to pull the tmic it will be easier to see them all. only remove the the big clamp from the tmic. Leave the TB hose on the TB, do not remove that. It can be a PITA to line back up, hint, the white dot goes at 12 o'clock. Line up the two bolts on the turbo to tmic carefully the threads are aluminum. Oh anti-sieze compound is your friend, use it on all nuts and bolts. Got it, thanks. I was able to replace my broken hose without removing the IC. It may have been easier to replace if the IC were out of the way, but I have small hands and was able to get it done. Would it be wise to go ahead and replace the vacuum lines while I'm in there? My broken hose was pretty hard, and I'd venture a guess that the others are in similar condition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 28, 2013 Share Posted June 28, 2013 It's always good to make sure the hoses are in good shape. Would I do it, just because one broke... not sure. I didn't even think about that when I put the ej257 in last May, I did do the heater hoses and cooling hoses. Next time your have time look around and get a feel for where the hoses are. So if one does break, you have a good idea where to go. Have you read up on the gas line clamps that leak when its below 20F and the o-rings at the TGV's to intake manifold that also cause issue when its cold ? The starter will also hang in for a second when it cold after you release the key to run. Other then that, make sure the battery terminals are clean and put grease over and around them to keep moisture out. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stm25rs Posted June 28, 2013 Author Share Posted June 28, 2013 It's always good to make sure the hoses are in good shape. Would I do it, just because one broke... not sure. I didn't even think about that when I put the ej257 in last May, I did do the heater hoses and cooling hoses. Next time your have time look around and get a feel for where the hoses are. So if one does break, you have a good idea where to go. Have you read up on the gas line clamps that leak when its below 20F and the o-rings at the TGV's to intake manifold that also cause issue when its cold ? The starter will also hang in for a second when it cold after you release the key to run. Other then that, make sure the battery terminals are clean and put grease over and around them to keep moisture out. I really appreciate all of the information. I have not heard about the gas line clamps or the TGV o-rings...I'll do some searching and reading on those issues. I have heard the starter noise, but only on very cold days, and even then, only occasionally - greasing the shaft is on my list of things to do. I think I got this car in February, so didn't see too many extremely cold days. My battery is about 2 years old, and still have nicely greased terminals from the previous owner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HarryD Posted June 28, 2013 Share Posted June 28, 2013 As far as the starter noise, on mine, I found the internal planetary gears to be a bit dry. It seems that there wasn't much grease, and what was there was a bit dried up. I greased up the shaft for the bendix gear as well with wheel bearing grease. No noise ever since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doobaruGT Posted November 27, 2013 Share Posted November 27, 2013 Sorry to revive an old thread but I have a problem with my vac line on the turbo. I upgraded last weekend and the barb on the turbo side is larger than stock and the vac line tore. How has anyone overcome this? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2 Updated parts list since original part-out here. Original Full part-out of my LGT HERE! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 27, 2013 Share Posted November 27, 2013 Sorry to revive an old thread but I have a problem with my vac line on the turbo. I upgraded last weekend and the barb on the turbo side is larger than stock and the vac line tore. How has anyone overcome this? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2 Get the next size up line and zip tie it. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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