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Koni Shock/Strut & Epic Engineering Spring Install


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Heat the nut up with a MAPP gas torch. Don't waste your time with propane. Spend the 45-50 bucks on the one with the push-button start from Lowes and you'll thank me later. I love my little torch, I use it for tons of stuff. :cool:
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i have both in, but they are not reaching the bottom. There is no way they are coming out so i can cut anymore of the strut. not even a 1/2 inch left to go. I wonder if the wt of the car when on will push them the rest of the way down? Was it that hard for everyone else to get the insert all the way down?
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Yeah, they shouldnt be so tight that the bolt cant pull it down. Removal also shouldnt be that difficult. A good hammer will get it in/out.

 

-mike

 

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Did you get them in? If you used a pipe cutter, I guarantee you took off enough material. The protrusion on the strut is pulled into the housing and it takes some force to get it in. It will stop as soon as the bottom hits. You can't break anything in this process, so don't fear!
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Did you have a barb/neckdown where the pipecutter pushed the metal inwards necking down the opening on the strut? I know it did that to me when I cut mine, I still need to go back and grind it flat before I put in my front inserts.

 

-Steve

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I had to use a round file to knock down the lip on the inside of the stock strut housing that the pipe cutter made. Took a couple minutes. I got them all assembled last night and I have Epics being delivered today along with a lot of other bushings from Infamous Performance. Can't wait to get these on the car, first I have to get my truck put back together and out of the garage though. :spin:

 

-Steve

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I can't get the lower strut bolt loose on my passenger side front. I even bought a 350 ft lb electric impact wrench and still no dice. Is there anything else I can do to get it loose? if I soak it in wd40 how long should I wait? any other tricks people know?
WD40 isn't very good for this situation. Try something like PB Blaster. It works well for me. PB and similar products should be available at your local auto parts store.

 

Just spray the heck out of it and let it sit for 5-10 mins, then try again. Repeat if unsuccessful.

 

Amazon reviews will back me up.

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If PB Blaster + MAPP gas + breaker bar/impact gun can't get it, you're in trouble. My Makita cordless impact is still only mostly effective on the big suspension bolts. The real stubborn ones take heat + impact. One of my next purchases will be: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Ingersoll-Rand-2135TiMAX-2-Inch-Impact-Wrench/dp/B000WMN2GU/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS?ie=UTF8&coliid=IONJFLUXTAGII&colid=M7MT1E81HIML]Amazon.com: Ingersoll-Rand 2135TiMAX 1/2-Inch Air Impact Wrench: Home Improvement[/ame]

 

-Steve

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If PB Blaster + MAPP gas + breaker bar/impact gun can't get it, you're in trouble. My Makita cordless impact is still only mostly effective on the big suspension bolts. The real stubborn ones take heat + impact. One of my next purchases will be: Amazon.com: Ingersoll-Rand 2135TiMAX 1/2-Inch Air Impact Wrench: Home Improvement

 

-Steve

Wow, 780 ft lbs. My 230ft/lb electric harbor freight impact wrench has been defeated once or twice and made me bust out a breaker bar with jack handle, but 780 should be more than enough for ANY job.
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Lol. That is nothing. I mean nothing. I have a 600ft lb torque wrench. 1 inch drive. When it does not work (ie Honda crank pulleys) that is when I break out what we call "Earthquake". My 1 inch drive 1/2inch fed air impact gun. 1700ftlbs of torque. Has yet to meet a bolt it can not break free.
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on the front top pearch. is it suposed to be angled when all put together, not on the car? the two holes line up with the knuckel on the bottom of the strut. How do you post pics on here? Edited by mustangendsley
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