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Ripped CV Boot


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I have been trying to diagnose a clunk when starting for a little while now. It originally only happened on a slight downhill but lately has been a little more prevalent. It usually happens when I release the cluth, but somalso happens when going slow and then accelerating.

 

I have been looking at the clutch which appears fine and the engine mounts which also appear fine. When getting an oil change yesterday they told me my front passenger CV boot was mostly off and there was no more lubicant.

 

I am assuming this may be the cause of these issues, so hopefully someone can confirm this might cause this clunk. I am not getting any clicking sound when turning.

 

IS it possible to just replace the boot (I have heard you can get boots that you just wrap around and glue shut) and re-lube the joint or do I need to replace the whole joint which usually means just buying a new axel from what I have read.

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This may or may not be the cause of your noise. Passenger side cv joint failure is common in the GTs due to the heat coming off the downpipe causing early degradation of the rubber boot. Subaru sells a boot kit with grease that can replace the failed boot. It does require pulling the hub and axle to get the new boot on. You probably want to do this so that someone can inspect your axle. If your getting a noise, it's probably due to damage somewhere. You don't always have to replace an axle to do this repair, but if your axle is not in good shape, you probably should. Others who know more can chime in more.

 

Word of warning. If you live in a winter salt area, this job is not for the faint of heart armchair home mechanic. The rust under the car may win the battle. (Ask me how I know.) Good luck.

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Read the DIY forum about replacing the axle.

 

It's all there.

 

Thanks, I had already come across this DIY and it looked quite informative. I was more worried about determining if I had to replace the axle, or confirmation that this can cause the clunk.

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Worn CV joints normal make a clunking sound while your driving in a turn in a parking lot.

 

If you readthe DIY, it's quicker to just replace the $80.00 axle then mess with the grease.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have a new axle (driveshaft) am will be replacing this weekend. The service manual says I need a new oil seal and new self locking nut but doesn't give part numbers. Can anyone help? Will there be anything else I need?

 

Thanks

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What about in a straight line? At low speed? Ie a single clunk as you begin moving.

 

Could be end links on the sway bar.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Possible that the missing CV boot is one of numerous issues. The shape of the factory DP makes using additional heat shielding tricky. If you have an aftermarket DP, you can wrap it and put a blanket on it, which will help quite a bit with insulation to protect the boot.
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