Brake Pad Install Issues

I have changed my brake pads in my Impreza without any issues, but the Legacy's is proving more difficult:mad:

I am having some trouble with the brake pads clips. Should the clip be in the first (outside) or the second (inside) slot on the caliper anti-rattle clip?

http://media.csh.rit.edu/Car/IMG_0662.JPG

I read the brake pad install guide on the forum and it was recommended to insert the tab only part of the pad first. I tried this but was unsuccessful as when I tried to insert the side with the clip there wasn't enough clearance to clear the caliper's anti-rattle clip. Am I doing something wrong? I am used to pads taking 30 seconds to change, but it took me 10 minutes with an extra set of hands just to get this one pad in.

http://media.csh.rit.edu/Car/IMG_0659.JPG

Thanks

It isn't supposed to hook in like that. Pad is upside down, and that tab on the pad goes on the outside, pressing against the tab on the bracket.

I can't find the picture of how it supposed to be installed.

Here we go: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/brake-pad-return-spring-21887.html

It isn't supposed to hook in like that. Pad is upside down, and that tab on the pad goes on the outside, pressing against the tab on the bracket.

 

I can't find the picture of how it supposed to be installed.

 

Here we go: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/brake-pad-return-spring-21887.html

^^ This gentleman is correct! Take the other outer pad in the set and install it in on the side you took the picture of. The spring tab will be facing down and it slots against the anti-rattle/slider part of the bracket.

OP - if you are still confused post back and more clarification can be added if you need.

Is this correct? There was a couple things I still am not 100% sure on:

-If I let go of the pad the spring tab pushes the pads out. Is this right?

-Does the wear indicator go inside the caliper clip as shown below?

http://media.csh.rit.edu/Car/IMG_0839.JPG

http://media.csh.rit.edu/Car/IMG_0840.JPG

Yes. That is correct.

I have cut them off also. If you watch your brakes, you don't need those.

I'm confused, even with the new pictures isn't that the pad that goes on the back of the rotor? I don't think I've ever see pads that go on the front of the rotor that have clips like that.

*I just looked at the FSM page in the link, and I guess some pads do have those clips on the outside? Your picture does look like the fsm illustration.

I have filed the tabs on some pads to get them to slide in the spring clips.

I also put a small dab of brake grease on them. The same grease as the pins get.

Use Anti-seize compound on all the threads, even the lug nuts.

I thought it was bad to use any lube on lug nuts as it throws torque values off.....

That is true. NEVER lubricate lug nuts and the studs... EVER.

If you get a bit of corrosion, i just run them thru the appropriate tap/die to clean the threads.

I thought it was bad to use any lube on lug nuts as it throws torque values off.....

That is true. NEVER lubricate lug nuts and the studs... EVER.

If you get a bit of corrosion, i just run them thru the appropriate tap/die to clean the threads.

Old wifes tail.

Been doing this on all the cars I've worked on in the past 15 years or so.

Don't believe everything you read. I also torque all the lug nuts to 80ftlbs. From the 3500 Chevy that towed the 40ft 5th wheel to the 147mph Civic drag race car.

What is the torque valve for thses cars lug nuts anyway's ? I've been using 80 ftlbs since the mid 1980's.

You do know to torque them twice, right ? Once with a little weight on the tire then lower the jack and torque them again. Check again after 25 miles or so.

The use of anti-seize on the lugs in not that much of a difference to worry about. It has been discussed on here.

I'll buy that you can probably get away with it, however, 80 ft-lbs applied to a lubed thread is not the same as 80 ft-lbs applied to a dry thread. I would be concerned about having only 80 ft-lbs on a lubed thread, but I worry too much about everything and admit to not being a fastener design expert.

Edit: Actually, just realized 80 on a lubed thread would stretch a stud more than a dry thread. Oops. 80 is probably fine in that case especially when you consider the air gun situation below.

I do know they factor this stuff in when designing assemblies with fasteners and torque values.

Good question on when the value should actually be. I've always used 80 to 90 ft-lbs on lugs...dry. Torque best I can off the ground in an alternating fashion, then again on ground....then again after a heat cycle.

Drives me nuts when a shop just blasts them on with an air gun. I guess 200 ft-lbs must not harm anything.......

Anyway, sorry to get off topic.

If the shop is good, they will use torque sticks. Which come in colors for different torque values. I have seen them used at my "trusted mechanic's" shop.

https://www.google.com/search?q=torque+sticks&rls=com.microsoft%3Aen-us%3AIE-ContextMenu&oe=&safe=active&gws_rd=ssl&oq=&gs_l=

At home I run the lugs down with my 70ftlbs 3/8 butterfly impact and then use a 1/2" torque wrench to torque them in a star pattern.