abs problem

Newbie here, please go easy on me. I tried searching but didn't find the answer so here goes.

 

My 1995 Legacy L AWD illuminates the ABS light after start up and moving forward approx 40 feet. It's an OBD-II car. Can I scan the abs codes through that port? If not, how do I get at the codes? I've searched the internet and came up with a connector near the heat outlet on the driver's side by the center console. However, I'm not sure what to connect to it to get it to flash the the codes via the light. I'm sure it's probably a wheel sensor or ring, but I'd like to know which prior to changing parts...

 

Any help would be appreciated.

Can't read abs codes through the obd port. Need a special scanner.

Make sure the ring is clean and also the sensor eye.

About all the help I can give.

 

O.

does the abs work?

 

you can read the codes by grounding out a pin in the connector. but i don't know which pin or which connector.

 

try a search over on ultimatesubaru.org i know it's over there.

If you take it to a shop most likely they can, I know a snap on solus will pull them. But like others said you need a high end one, the autozone one will not work

with the subaru ''scan tool'' you can read all codes through the OBD-2 port.

 

but you can also read the ABS codes on the flashing ABS light, if you know how to activate it.

 

same is true for the trans codes.

 

i found this for 90 - 95 legos.(thanks porc73) there is a similar procedure, if not the same, for 96 - 99.

 

i think you need to ground terminal L with the key off. Then after grounding L, you go to key on, then it flashes out the codes.

 

http://www.porcupine73.com/pics/abs/abs-2E-diagnostics.gif

from endwrench, for later 90s cars:

 

turn car off.

 

ground out pin #3 on connector B82. (a 6 pin connector above the gas pedal.)

 

turn ignition on.

 

count the flashes on the abs light. (long flashes = tens , short flashes = ones)

 

the system can hold up to 3 codes at a time, lowest number first. fix the related problems and check for more codes if the light is still on.

 

 

or just pull the wheels and check / clean the sensor. that is usually where the problems are. unless you disconnected something recently and didn't ''re-connect'' it completely.

 

tagline: abscodes readingabscodes howtoreadcodes

Thanks guys! I poked around under the dash and found a black 6 pin connector along with 2 ground wires. After connecting the ground to the lower right pin (connector tab facing up), I began to get the codes after turning the ignition on. The dang light flashes so fast that it's pretty difficult to tell how many and what number codes you have. In reality, you really need a reader if you have more than one code... The abs seems like it's working which is a bit more puzzling. I guess I'll just start with the basics and check each sensor and tone ring. Thanks again for you help. I'll post what was wrong if and when I find it.

There is an aluminum disk w/ gear teeth on it inside each wheel.

You can see it when you take off the hub. I think it is a centrifugal device

that lets the ABS know how fast you are going. I had two lug studs break

because tire guy didn't tighten. This disk cracked on my right rear when

new studs were pressed in. ABS light came on ABS was still functioning.

Might be worth a look. Fortunately I knew which wheel it was.

Don't know if this will help.

There is an aluminum disk w/ gear teeth on it inside each wheel.

 

this is called a tone ring. if it is broken then you will get an ABS light.

Thanks johnegg.

Was away from the house and could not remember the name of the

"tone ring". Guess it shows my stupidity. It was definitely what caused my ABS light to come on.

Had mine replaced at my local repair shop. Don't know how difficult to replace.

Didn't look too hard, I was traveling w/ work and didn't have the time.

I have heard you can even do the J. B. weld thing. I don't know.

Didn't read the other post well, it mentioned tone ring in the post.

My post may not be helpful after all.

the sensor are magnetic and they can pick up rust crap and cause a problem. and if you are in the rust belt removing them can be difficult.

 

the wheel hub has to be removed in order to remove the tone rings. this is the same work as replacing a wheel bearing less the bearing.

my axel boot broke and got grease all over the megnetic sensor, the ABS was working wierd. (no ABS light though). fine after i cleaned it and had the rotors grinded even.

 

screw ABS anyway, it makes me uncomfortable. can you just unplug it in the fusebox and get on with life?