SBT Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 Don't know if it's different for the back of the cylinder block, but, according to Opposed Forces, the one for the AVCS is 14445AA090 - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dvancleve Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 So I read through a lot, but not all, of this thread. It seems like the turbo side BB filter is always dirtier than the AVCS side, if both are checked and not clean. Is it reasonable to assume that if the turbo side is clean it is safe to leave the AVCS side alone? I am pretty sure I can do the turbo side, a lot less sure about the AVCS side... Thanks, Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobb Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 The turbo side on mine actually had bits of rubber, I recent had my valve cover gasket replaced I think some of the rtv came loose and caught in the filter, they were big chunks kinda glad that filter was there, if u look at the banjo bolt on top of the turbo itself u will see the holes are so small they themselves can clog as easily as the filter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbo7 Posted July 14, 2013 Share Posted July 14, 2013 I replaced my turbo and pulled the filter out of the banjo and have the ip&t oil line kit. Now I have a slight oil leak which seems to be where the banjo bolt is. I didnt replace the washers. Im getting new ones tomorrow but since everything is back together im trying to get the bolt out from the directions in this thread. I got the nut off on the uppipe for the bracket but cant get the other one. I sprayed pb blaster and actually broke my swivel. Guess ill just get a new swivel and start again. Always something Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted July 15, 2013 Share Posted July 15, 2013 Always something +1. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 16, 2013 Share Posted July 16, 2013 Get a stubby 17mm ratchet box end from Harbor Fright. Or the flex head 17mm box end 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbo7 Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 I got it thanks guys. What a pain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capt99ws6 Posted July 27, 2013 Share Posted July 27, 2013 Any tips on getting the nut off the up pipe to get the bracket off? I have been soaking it with pb blaster for a week and it still wont come off? I don't want to break it off either! Any help would be greatly appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
K2e2vin Posted July 27, 2013 Share Posted July 27, 2013 Heat and/or an impact. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capt99ws6 Posted July 27, 2013 Share Posted July 27, 2013 Well tried the heat and then stripped it! So now what? LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capt99ws6 Posted July 27, 2013 Share Posted July 27, 2013 Anyone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prodrifterx Posted July 27, 2013 Share Posted July 27, 2013 Drill it and use a left handed bit. Or if enough there weld a bolt or nut to it and then turn it out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowwill Posted July 28, 2013 Share Posted July 28, 2013 Try using a smaller socket and tap it on with a hammer. Use a 1/2 swivel and long extension for leverage. It'll come out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prodrifterx Posted July 28, 2013 Share Posted July 28, 2013 How a bout a picture to show us the problem bolt and how muh is left on it to grab Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dvancleve Posted August 18, 2013 Share Posted August 18, 2013 Im wanting to do the drivers side but man what a PITA. Maybe ill leave it. I am replacing the oil control valves this week, as my AVCS is all over the map at just off idle There is lots of evidence that obstructed banjo bolts on the turbo side can be bad, but is there any evidence that the BB filter on the AVCS matters much? In an ideal world, I would remove the AVCS side filter completely and clean/replace the turbo side (since the AVCS side seems hard to do and the turbo side pretty easy). I am thinking I will settle for servicing the turbo side and leaving the AVCS side alone... Thanks, Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbangoy Posted August 24, 2013 Share Posted August 24, 2013 Anyone have a part number for the coolant line and clamps in the pic on the first post? it is the wrapped one that forms a C shape and goes below the turbo. Mine is leaking at the top and dripping down onto the up pipe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMMER DOWN Posted August 25, 2013 Share Posted August 25, 2013 (edited) Anyone have a part number for the coolant line and clamps in the pic on the first post? it is the wrapped one that forms a C shape and goes below the turbo. Mine is leaking at the top and dripping down onto the up pipe. Use a 3/4" worm clamp. From any auto parts store. Do this so you wouldn't have to remove that coolant hose to replace the OEM clamp. Mike Edited August 25, 2013 by HAMMER DOWN Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nnblackgt Posted September 7, 2013 Share Posted September 7, 2013 I am trying to do this and i am clueless and even after looking at pictures and people saying different things i am clueless can anyone help me in person lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SATSFYD Posted September 10, 2013 Share Posted September 10, 2013 Ill be the VA during the last week of OCT... is that too late? LOL **There are two types of people in the world, those who build horsepower and those who buy it. Which one are you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KeyboardHero Posted October 14, 2013 Share Posted October 14, 2013 First off, thank you to everyone who contributed to this thread, especially those that posted screenshots and step-by-step details; it was immensely helpful. I picked up an '05 LGT wagon with 44k miles on it about two months ago from Missouri. As I was driving it back to my home state of Texas the pressure plate shattered, leaving me stranded on the side of I-35 at 2am. After the local Subaru dealership completed the clutch repairs, they let me know that they've never seen a clutch in worse condition, especially on a vehicle with less than 50k miles. Skeptical of the previous owner's driving capabilities and maintenance schedules, I decided it would be worthwhile to check out the banjo bolt filter just in case it was clogged to shit. Tips for anyone attempting to do this project themselves: -I found it helpful to remove the turbo heat shield to make additional space for my hands/wrenches -Having a shorty 17mm is an absolute necessity, the working space is incredibly small -Due to the small size of the shorty 17mm's grip and the amount of force needed to loosen the banjo bolt, I ended up sticking a large screwdriver in the other side of the wrench to improve the amount of leverage I could get. It worked fantastically. -I used a thin white cloth to prevent the inner washer from falling lower into the engine's abyss. It caught it perfectly. -The suggestion in previous pages to use dental floss to get the inner washer back in place was a brilliant idea, it took about three minutes to put the bolt back on with this method. After inspecting the filter it appeared to be 15-20% clogged, which isn't as bad as I would have expected. I ended up removing the filter entirely, as I plan on doing religious oil changes for the rest of this vehicle's life. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KeyboardHero Posted October 16, 2013 Share Posted October 16, 2013 So it looks like I didn't properly seal the bolt back into position, every time I get on the turbo white smoke drafts up from the UP when I'm stationary. Looks like I need to tear it back apart this weekend.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drogos Posted October 25, 2013 Share Posted October 25, 2013 Just for the record I checked the AVCS banjo bolt for filters, there were none there, I went through the trouble of removing the turbo feed banjo as well, there was no filter either.All three banjo bolts still had the factory paint marks, there was no sign someone else had been in there before me(no spanner marks on the bolts). no filter in turbo banjo bolt here either. I ordered a new one from stealership and it came without filter if I remember correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 25, 2013 Share Posted October 25, 2013 The banjo bolt on the turbo never had the filter, only the two on the block. 07+ has the bolt up on top of the passenger side head, not on the rear side like 05-06. The front banjo bolt is on the front side of the drivers head on 05-06. HAMMERDOWN has a DIY how to grind the head down and remove it without taking the timing covers off. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06lgtspecb Posted October 25, 2013 Share Posted October 25, 2013 I'm curious about using the dental floss to put the back washer back on. Wouldn't the floss wrapped around the washer keep the washer from sealing correctly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted October 25, 2013 Share Posted October 25, 2013 (edited) Start with a long piece of dental floss, and drape/hang the washer between both ends and put the banjo bolt through it. Once you get the BB started into the threads, (you're using the dental floss just to hold it in position on the BB), release one end of the floss and pull the other end to pull it out and away from the washer. Tighten your BB to spec. Edited October 26, 2013 by SBT more clear - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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