Replaced everything but ....(fill in the blank)

I have a problem not for the faint of heart. My wife was driving our lovely '91 Legacy and the idle started to act irratic. It went from 1k, to 1.5k, to 2k while in neutral.

 

When she attempted to start it after work, the car would start, then stall imediately after. I was able to get it to start, but had to keep my foot on the throttle and RPMs over 3K.

 

I had it towed to the shop I can work on it from, and then started it the next day. We unplugged the Mass Air Flow Sensor, and the car would barely idle. So I cleaned the Mass Air Flow Sensor, and also bought a new one. Nothing helped.

 

I bought a used, but good conditioned Idle Air Controler, and that didn't help either. I am getting power to my injectors, fuel pump, and fuses; so I think the fuel relay sensor is good.

 

I took the hose off the fuel filter, and when I turned over the engine, no fuel came out. This made me think that it was the fuel pump, so I am currently awaiting parts.

 

I was told the cam angle sensor could have gone out, but that doesn't go along with the situation. I would have caught that before the car became inoperable.

 

Does any one have any strange suggestions that might help me keep my Legacy from turning into a memory?

The crank or cam angle sensor would certainly throw a CEL, so you would know if that went. Most of the time it throws the ecu off so badly, the car won't even run or stay running.

 

Have you checked your vacuum lines? One disconnected will cause the car to run erratic.

If the car is turning over, it doesn't seem like a fuel delivery issue, more of an intake type problem. But, seeing you already ordered the pump, may as well replace it and see.

I think what you meant to say is that if the car fires when you turn it over it's not a fuel issue, but this is not always the case. Although usually a fuel pump will just die out altogether. Generally if it is operating intermittently it is the relay. This would mean that the pump would work sometimes, and not others, not that it would work one second then not the next. In other words, it would start and run fine once, then when you shut it off and go to start it again it wouldn't anymore. It wouldn't just die in the middle of running then start back up all on its own again.

 

This is a puzzling issue, but I'd start with the fuel pump and relay since you've got the parts ordered, then move on to the vacuum lines and even the intake hose. If there is a crack in the intake hose after the MAF sensor, that could cause erratic behavior. It would have to be a good size crack in order for the engine to not start under 3K RPM's, but it is possible.

Thank you so much for the replies!!! I've searched all over for that !@# &*@$ %&$*$ piece of &@#&* #@$*#@_@###@#_#$@*&$^%#^

 

relay and fuel pump fuse as well. The fuse for the fuel pump I can't find, and I'm about to use a torch on the dash to get to the relay. If it's where I think it is, I'll tear the whole dash out before I get to it. I checked the vacume hoses and they are all in great condition.

 

I should probably specify by 'turning over' because I was corrected by some mechanic when we were looking at it. I said I was just cranking it, meaning I was getting spark, and the engine was turning, but no combustion. He said that was 'turning over' Either way, I turn the key, and just get the starter noise with not even a hint of combustion.

 

I have access to an OBD1 Scanner, however I was told that the codes were very minimal. I know this is a subaru forum, but just FYI, In a Jeep if you turn the key on and off three times without cranking the engine, after three seconds in the 'on' position, the codes will read off on the odometer. Just incase any one here ownes a newer jeep with digital odometer

That is one nice thing (probably only) about Chrysler vehicles. You can get a trouble code very easily.

It's not so simple on our cars, however, you dont need a scanner, just need to plug in some wires under the kickpanel of the dash.

Follow these steps here to see if you get any codes: http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html#enginetip

check ur catalytic converter

Holly Milk Dudds! That site is awesome!!!! I love stuff like that! It's fuel for my soul! Thanks for the advice. I will check my cat as well if the fuel pump doesn't work. I will also post pictures. Only three more days until I can work on my Soob!!!!!!!!!

So. what happened? Did you figure anything out?

Hello 'Roo Followers!

Here's an updated status: The car is still not starting.

 

 

I used the website to get my codes, and I came up with Code 23, 24, 31, and 12. I changed out the Mass Air Flow Sensor one more time, which cost 107.00. (Now I have three MAFS) I changed out my fuel filter, and checked the fuel pump.

 

(FYI Hooking up a fuel pump to a jump box is the stupidest necessary thing I've ever had to do!)

 

I tested the electrical power at the fuel pump, and the pump wire connector under the back seat. I was drawing barely enough power to show the fuel guage, but not enough to make the fuel pump run. I removed my entire dash and middle console to pull out the fuel relay.

 

The Fuel Relay was replaced, but still no power going out of it to my fuel pump, so I by-passed the relay with a home made tester wire made out of 18 guage copper and allegator clips. The pump filled the new filter and when I removed my fuel hose, sprayed fuel all over the engine. Safe to say the pump was ruled out as the issue.

 

A mechanic I was working with (one of three who are also puzzled) tested my ignition system again, and this time I wasn't getting a spark. I changed my ignition relay, and charged the battery, as it was getting pretty worn out. There was still no spark going to the engine.

 

I double checked all my fuses, and put my dash back together. I'm sure I'm missing a connection to my ECM when I pulled my dash out, so my next step will be looking for a connector under my dash that needs a friend.

 

The reason I think I missed an electronic connection is because my test wire is plugged in, and I'm not getting a check engine light. So far, I have bought these parts, and still no fire!

 

Fuel Pump Relay: Free!(The guy at the junk said I spent too much money)

Ignition Relay: 15

Mass Air Flow Sensor: 107

Mass Air Flow Sensor: 20

Idle Air Controler: 48

Shop Fees: 300

Wire and Allegator Clips from Radio Shack: 12

Fuel Pump: 21

what about the ignitor on the firewall above the pitch mount?

I'm not sure if I checked that or not. If it's the square plastic switching unit, mounted on the center of the firewall, then I did check that.

 

This last four days, I put my dash back together, leaving my fuel pump relay and ignition relay out so I have easy access for testing. We took a heavy duty piece of equipment called a SOLUS PRO from Snap On. If you decide to sell your car, you can buy one at http://diagnostics.snapon.com/soluspro.

 

This is a diagnostic tool that listens for an electornic signal or pulse rather than power. We tested the Crank Angle Sensor, and the Cam Angle Sensor, and were receiving a signal from both. At this point in time, I thought for sure I fried my onboard computer, so that was replaced.

 

By now the Subaru junk yard guys know me on a first name basis. I am still not getting anything going to my ignition. I was getting ignition before I started my endevour of something in fuel. I was sure I left something unplugged, but after spending a whole day ensuring everything was connected, I'm still not getting anything to my ignition.

 

There's one more thing that's interesting. I'm not getting a check engine light. I've tried to turn it on twice, by making a false positive, however it won't come on. The guys at the Subaru salvage yard, as well as the mechanics I've been working with are recomending that I get a new car.

 

Parts Changed Out

Mass Air Flow Sensor (Three Times)

Idle Air Control Sensor

Fuel Pump Relay

Ignition Relay

CPU

 

Parts Tested:

Crank Angle Sensor

Camm Angle Sensor

Fuel Pump

The square switch in the center of the firewall, engine side

 

Problem existing:

No electricity to Ignition, even though there was before

No check engine light

 

I promise I will get some pictures ASAP. I've just been working alot, and by the time I'm done with the car, I'm just ready for a beer and time with my Wife. I'm also a member of the Vivarium Forum, so my time is split. You all have been most helpful, and I promise you I will tell you of any updates I get.

 

I am currently saving money to tow the car to my house so I don't have to pay storage on it. I will work on it once more, but I need to get my Jeep running better, and throw another transmission into my Malibu. The 1st Trans had shift solinoids that went out.

how about mechanical timing? pull the timing cover, make sure nothing jumped a tooth or two. make sure the tabs on the crank sprocket are all there. I had a similar problem with my 92. the crank sprocket lost a tooth, and was shifted on the crank.

Will Do. I haven't even thought of that. I will check it out as soon as I get some time off work.

 

Thanks : )

shtbxr22,

And because the cam timing was off, you weren't getting anything to your spark plugs?

well technically the crank timing was off due to the sprocket being damaged, and wobbling around everywhere. sometimes it would fire, sometimes would not. make sure all the prongs are intact on the sprocket, and the woodruff key is still in place.