WBR FMIC Install

First impression once I got the box.... Uh o!!

 

WBR.... please use better packaging procedures. A few pipes are beat up, but won't be noticeable once I paint them. A butt load of peanuts and shredded paper does not make up for a cheap, thin, cardboard box.

 

DO NOT THROW OUT THE BOX UNTILL THE INSTALL IS DONE!! Because WBR has no idea how to properly pack something, I'm still finding hardware each time I go through the box. And each time I go through the box...there's peanuts all over the floor again. Thanks WBR!

 

Pics online show core painted entirely black....just the front face of mine is black

 

This $20 purchase at Advance Auto will save you from many headaches untill WBR gets their act together.

 

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a257/mwiener2/IMG_1865.jpg

 

 

Partial Parts list. I can't give a full one cause I was missing parts and I had quite a few parts left over.

 

Bag of random nuts and bolts

4 metal spacers

1 small T-clamp (turbo flange)

14 medium T-clamps

1 large T-clamp (throttle body)

 

Use the pics for the bigger stuff

 

 

side note: WBR's pics are useless

 

 

 

 

Here's the box it came in... the pile of parts... then everything laid out in as close to the right way as I can guess without having the car apart

 

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a257/mwiener2/IMG_1844.jpg

 

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a257/mwiener2/IMG_1843.jpg

 

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a257/mwiener2/IMG_1846.jpg

 

 

Now I go paint

 

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a257/mwiener2/IMG_1847.jpg

Taking apart the car! These pics are from the phone... I left my camera inside and was too lazy to go and get it.

 

 

Take off the grill and bumper. Two bolts on either side of the grill, maybe a popit or two. Bunch of popits along the bottom of the bumper. Peel back the plastic of the front of the wheel well, there's a popit holding ont he bumper there too.

 

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a257/mwiener2/1005071814.jpg

 

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a257/mwiener2/1005071815.jpg

 

This is where things may begin to differ from Outback to Legacy. The Outback bumper beam appears to be much larger than the Legacy one.... and it says OBK on it. I don't know what the legacy looks like or what exactly will be different..so you Legacy folks might run into a few suprises or something....sorry

 

Next step is to detach the headlights... you don't have to remove them, just unbolt them. Two bolts and a popit on the top of the headlight. Then take the two bolts and one plastic mini screw popit out of the headlight bracket that is below the headlight. The below pic shows the location of the bolts and popits.

 

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a257/mwiener2/1005071824.jpg

 

Now it's time to lose the bumper beam. Take off the foam but cutting the tape onteh ends and pulling it off. It should pretty much fall off once you cut the tape. There are holes in the bumper beam where you can pass a socket with an extension through. Two on each side of the beam. See below.

 

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a257/mwiener2/1005071820.jpg

 

No refer back to the headlight pic, there's a bolt circled below the headlight, remove it and any other bolts around that area that look like they hold the bumper beam on. Once all the bolts are out, tilt the beam up and wiggle it til it comes off. You may have to lift the headlights and jiggle them around too. Once the beam is off, you can re-attach the headlights before you forget how they were attached.

 

Next is to remove the undercover tray, three bolts and two popits up in the fender well. Then remove the plastic thingy pictured below, 5 popits, I think, and two small bolts.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a257/mwiener2/1005071842.jpg

Mounting the brackets for the core

 

Since WBR does not provide directions...or any help for that matter, I'm guessing at this point as to what hardware goes where. I got a bag of 12 big ass washers. I put three on each bolt between the frame rail and the bracket to space it out.

 

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a257/mwiener2/1005071907.jpg

 

With the L shaped brackets, the "bumper beam" mounting hole is obstructed by the flat flange of the frame rail. I had to drill it out, wasn't a big deal.

 

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a257/mwiener2/1005071915a.jpg

 

WBR's pics show a washer on the nut and bolt that holds the bumper beam to the L brackets... But I ran out of washers at this point.

 

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a257/mwiener2/1005071915.jpg

 

Sorry about the crappy pics....it got dark out and the phone doesn't have a decent flash.

Install the bottom mounting bracket. The two bolts that came with the kit are the wrong thread. You need to make sure you have two 1.5" M6 x 1 bolts. These go into the holes on the bottom of the frontmost crossmember. The kti came with 4 metal spacer block thingys. They go between the bracket and the car.

 

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a257/mwiener2/IMG_1853.jpg

 

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a257/mwiener2/IMG_1858.jpg

 

Part of the frame rail hits the charge pipes on either side.

 

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a257/mwiener2/IMG_1854.jpg

 

Test fit the core by loosely attaching the two top bolts. The metal spacers go between the core and the new "bumper beam". The take notice of where the charge pipes touch the frame rail and cut or bend to make room.

 

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a257/mwiener2/IMG_1859.jpg

 

 

Once you've made sure it fits, bolt it up.

 

Remove the stock coolent tank by depressing the tab on the drivers side top of the tank bracket. It should pulll towards the engine then out.

 

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a257/mwiener2/1005071940.jpg

 

Take off the BOV, TMIC and the bracket for the TMIC on the drivers side.

 

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a257/mwiener2/IMG_1860.jpg

 

Now do this and giggle

 

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a257/mwiener2/IMG_1861.jpg

 

 

Unbolt the washer fluid tank and let it hang out. After the pipes are in the washer tank wil be remounted by drilling a hole above the old hole and use the old bolt and hole onthe frame.

 

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a257/mwiener2/IMG_1864.jpg

 

Cut out a notch for the charge piping

 

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a257/mwiener2/IMG_1862.jpg

 

I had to cut off the bottom support bracket for the coolent tank.

 

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a257/mwiener2/IMG_1863.jpg

Now put all the pipes together. Don't forget to put the T-clamps on first.

 

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a257/mwiener2/IMG_1875.jpg

 

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a257/mwiener2/IMG_1876.jpg

 

I had to bend the battery hold down so it wasn't rubbing the pipe.

 

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a257/mwiener2/IMG_1872.jpg

 

The pipe with the BOV hole and bracket needs to go either under or inbetween the fuel lines. I chose inbetween. CAREFULLY bend the hard lines of the fuel lines to do one or the either.

 

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a257/mwiener2/IMG_1868.jpg

 

On the passenger side, this piece of metal might rub. Bend it out of the way.

 

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a257/mwiener2/IMG_1869.jpg

 

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a257/mwiener2/IMG_1867.jpg

 

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a257/mwiener2/IMG_1871.jpg

 

All the pipes in place.

 

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a257/mwiener2/IMG_1879.jpg

 

Before you bolt down the flange on the turbo. Consider making a gasket for it.

 

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a257/mwiener2/IMG_1870.jpg

 

Mount the new coolent bottle wherever you want. The most room is over on the passenger side where the snorkel used to be. If you use that location, T into the marked coolent line and don't forget to cap the old coolent line.

 

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a257/mwiener2/IMG_1877.jpg

 

 

 

Pressure Testing. (You will need a source of compressed air)

 

This is a very important procedure that will save you many many headaches later on. 70% of the people that show up for dyno appointments have some kind of boost leak. This usually ends up taking 1-1.5hrs min to fix and at the usual shop rate of $60+/hr..... it's not worth it and it wastes yours and the tuners time.

 

 

While you're at the auto parts shop picking up pieces that this kit is missing, get a 3" -> 2.5" silicone hose adapter. Mine cost $5 at autozone. The 3" size should go over the turbo inlet and then find a soup can or other sturdy cylindrical object that fits in the 2.5" side. One side of your cylindrical object must be sealed (bottom still on can). In an ideal situation, you will have a air blower tip for your compressor.

 

http://www.minmetalsjs-cn.com/upload/product/2/20fc9c0798d4263b3b562ec4ab4317c4.jpg

 

drill a small hole in the end of the can so the tip of the blower will fit in there. Then put everything together and add air. I wouldn't go higher than 40psi. You should hear a noise like a valve is leaking. Sounds like a dying duck... it's just part of the emissions system, ignore it.

 

This may take two people, one to keep filling with air, and the other to search for leaks. Run your hands over every inch of the piping and check for air coming out of the connections. At 40psi, significant leaks will become very apparent. If the leak seems very minor at 40psi, it probably is and can be ignored.

 

Once you are sure you've found any and all significant air leaks and fixed them, you can remove your can and install the CAI or whatever you have. Do this before putting the bumper on so that you can access all the lower fittings easily.

Trim the bumper!

 

See how much I cut out....double it. I didn't get a pic of the final cut but basicly you have to cut out most of the duct like things leaving only a small part of the center divider. I also cut out the top of the opening almost flush with the front of the bumper to allow air to go to the upper part of the IC.

 

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a257/mwiener2/IMG_1880.jpg

 

You should have a much larger pile of trimmings

 

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a257/mwiener2/IMG_1883.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Something WBR doesn't mention... You lose the functionality of the emergency tow hook. The charge pipe and endtank block the attachment point.

 

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a257/mwiener2/IMG_1882.jpg

 

 

 

 

All done. You wouldn't know it was there unless you were looking for it.

 

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a257/mwiener2/IMG_1884.jpg

 

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a257/mwiener2/IMG_1886.jpg

Saving a space for my comments. A-la layzee subscribe.

So what did you use for paint??

Krylon Wrinkle Paint

 

I got it at a auto parts store

 

Walmart, ACE, and Hobby Lobby don't carry it

hope you ordered more than one can. I had trouble getting the consistency on mine to stay the same throughout. Make sure to let it really dry, in direct sunlight to bring out the crinkle. Im going to redo mine when i have some more time to focus on little things and stick 'em in an oven next time .

side note, i though the wbr pictures were perfect. If you need any help let me know and shoot me a pm.

Did you use a fine grit paper to rough up the SS a bit?

nope, proll should have done that. I noticed mostly though when in direct contact with heat/sunlight it makes the wrinkle appear much better.

PIcs w/ the FMIC on?

theres no way hes done yet, paints gotta settle give him time . There are a bunch scattered on this website though

ill throw this in there since its an install thread. http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h300/c0lbyj/DSC01763.jpg

 

In order to make the K&N Typhoon fit you need to cute some of the pipe w/ a dremel. Cobalt bits are your friend

 

Heres how it should sit with the bumper off

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h300/c0lbyj/DSC01753.jpg

 

Heres how it should look finished

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h300/c0lbyj/DSC01785ok.jpg

theres no way hes done yet, paints gotta settle give him time . There are a bunch scattered on this website though

 

Haha..I didn't know he just got the stuff...I guess I should have looked at the date. I LOVE FMICs they just look sweet!

man that look sooooooo sweet! nice ride, brother!

so get one

I need to...How is it taking off the bumper? I know some FMICs mods are needed...how about yours?

bumper is the hardest part. Im curious about the OP, he has an obxt. To the OP are you going to open up the bumper to allow more air to get to the fmic?

^^ Havn't gotten to that part yet

 

 

Bump for updates to install

 

 

 

 

What's this thing next to the horns? on the left

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a257/mwiener2/1005071820a.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

My thoughts so far about this product:

 

WBR needs to get their act together... The product seems ok, but I keep getting the feeling that they're coming from someone's garage. This feeling is intensified by the crappy packaging, one sided paint job, loose hardware floating in the box, and lack of any instructions.

 

The new "bumper beam" is not a bumper beam. It's false advertising to call it such. It's simply a mounting bracket for the core. The stock bumper beam is for protection in low speed crashes. The WBR "bumper beam" won't even feel the impact untill after the FMIC core has pushed through your radiator.

Yay...more things about the WBR i'm not impressed with.

 

BOV.. well...look for yourself

 

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a257/mwiener2/IMG_1848.jpg

i hate to play the devils advocate here... but perrins fitment is far worse, is a stupid design because the cold charge pipe gets hot again flowing over the turbo and it doesnt really fit w/ the fog lights. You need to have a shop fabricate a special silicone adapter piece/tube to retain fogs. As for the bumper beam.. ok ill give that to you. But name ONE company fmic that retains a real bumper beam besides MTS, which i dont even think is in production anymore and is much smaller of a core than this one. APS/Perrin/Greddy/SSAC/AVO (which doesn't really fit with the cars oem bumper beam without a lot of cutting) all call their little support bar a bumper beam. The purpose of this said "bumper beam" is to hold the fmic, you trade of some safety when you get a fmic no matter what company. For instructions, i guess it would be cool if he wrote a little manual/pdf but the only complicated part is mounting the bracket which you did correctly i believe it was three washer to space it out far enough so the fmic doesnt hit anything. The next fun step for you will be trimming your bumper, im curious to see what happens I had a bitch of a time doing that, i cant imagine what you're going to go through.

Sounds like a PIA!