Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

Big trouble


Recommended Posts

I was driving home doin 80 and then the engine shut down and I started puffing out white smoke like a train pulled over and on the driver side was covered in oil I checked there no oil in the coolent or coolent in the oil and it does start it doesn't stay running and puffing whit smoke while it's running everything sounds normal and doesn't have any CEL thrown any help would be appreciated
Link to comment
Share on other sites

We really need a sticky up top that starts with something along the lines of "Is your car doing X, Y, or Z?" and listing the symtoms, followed with the only real resolution: You need a new engine.

 

OP,

 

First, check your bank account and credit limits -- You're gonna need resources (read: money) to get back on the road again. At least 3k, probably 5, and realistically, about 7k if you're gonna do it right. If you honestly can't afford to put that kinda money into your ride right now, or even over the course of the next 3-6 months, you should consider putting your car up on CL as-is, as a project car.

 

Long and short, you need a new engine. There is no cheap way out of this. If you cut corners, you WILL end up doing the process twice, and only be out more money.

 

Read some of the build threads around here, and they all start with similar situations you described. At the very least, you need a new shortblock, maybe a new turbo, and then headwork before it all goes back together again. That's just the base -- You'll likely encounter more stuff that needs replacing or upgrading along the way -- that's just how these things go.

 

If you're not able to do the work yourself, you should check the regional forums and see who everyone recommends as a good shop to take your car to. YOU CANNOT TAKE YOUR LGT TO JUST ANY OLD SHOP -- you need a certified mechanic that specializes in turbo Subarus.

 

There are lots of informational resources to be had here, and if you have the time and motivation, you can do the replacement work yourself.

 

First step: Call Bryce at Heuberger Subaru in Colorado Springs. You can find a link to them under the Vendor heading at the top of the page. They have the lowest price on a brand-new shortblock ($1645).

 

Next step: Work some OT if you can -- you're gonna need it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators
We really need a sticky up top that starts with something along the lines of "Is your car doing X, Y, or Z?" and listing the symtoms, followed with the only real resolution: You need a new engine.

 

OP,

 

First, check your bank account and credit limits -- You're gonna need resources (read: money) to get back on the road again. At least 3k, probably 5, and realistically, about 7k if you're gonna do it right. If you honestly can't afford to put that kinda money into your ride right now, or even over the course of the next 3-6 months, you should consider putting your car up on CL as-is, as a project car.

 

Long and short, you need a new engine. There is no cheap way out of this. If you cut corners, you WILL end up doing the process twice, and only be out more money.

 

Read some of the build threads around here, and they all start with similar situations you described. At the very least, you need a new shortblock, maybe a new turbo, and then headwork before it all goes back together again. That's just the base -- You'll likely encounter more stuff that needs replacing or upgrading along the way -- that's just how these things go.

 

If you're not able to do the work yourself, you should check the regional forums and see who everyone recommends as a good shop to take your car to. YOU CANNOT TAKE YOUR LGT TO JUST ANY OLD SHOP -- you need a certified mechanic that specializes in turbo Subarus.

 

There are lots of informational resources to be had here, and if you have the time and motivation, you can do the replacement work yourself.

 

First step: Call Bryce at Heuberger Subaru in Colorado Springs. You can find a link to them under the Vendor heading at the top of the page. They have the lowest price on a brand-new shortblock ($1645).

 

Next step: Work some OT if you can -- you're gonna need it.

 

 

Seriously? What a douchebag post. While I respect the build that you are currently doing, you really couldn't come across as a bigger asshole than this post leads me to believe. You've done nothing to be helpful and have only told the guy that he should check his bank account, read other threads, and make more money because you're "gonna need it." Classy, man.

 

OP, let's do some actual diagnosis. Where is the white smoke coming from? The engine bay or the tail pipe? If things are suddenly covered in oil, you need to figure out where it's coming from. Clean things up, check your oil, and if you're low I would recommend not driving the car. Tow it to wherever you have work done (your own house, a shop, whatever) because you are likely dealing with a significant oil leak of some sort and that situation can certainly cause great damage to these cars.

 

If everything is suddenly covered in oil as you say, you may have popped a line or blown a headgasket in a sudden / extreme way. If you stopped the car soon enough you may have saved further damage--don't drive it any further in order to prevent possible / additional damage.

 

Pictures help. Let us know where the smoke is actually coming from. And good luck, I hope you can find some good help here. This could in fact be a bad situation that requires a new motor, or it could be a more minor issue. Let's try and rule out the little stuff (relatively little, at least) before you go crazy!

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Seriously? What a douchebag post. While I respect the build that you are currently doing, you really couldn't come across as a bigger asshole than this post leads me to believe. You've done nothing to be helpful and have only told the guy that he should check his bank account, read other threads, and make more money because you're "gonna need it." Classy, man.

 

OP, let's do some actual diagnosis. Where is the white smoke coming from? The engine bay or the tail pipe? If things are suddenly covered in oil, you need to figure out where it's coming from. Clean things up, check your oil, and if you're low I would recommend not driving the car. Tow it to wherever you have work done (your own house, a shop, whatever) because you are likely dealing with a significant oil leak of some sort and that situation can certainly cause great damage to these cars.

 

If everything is suddenly covered in oil as you say, you may have popped a line or blown a headgasket in a sudden / extreme way. If you stopped the car soon enough you may have saved further damage--don't drive it any further in order to prevent possible / additional damage.

 

Pictures help. Let us know where the smoke is actually coming from. And good luck, I hope you can find some good help here. This could in fact be a bad situation that requires a new motor, or it could be a more minor issue. Let's try and rule out the little stuff (relatively little, at least) before you go crazy!

 

Seriously yourself, dicknuts. Just like there's a Truth In Lending form when you're buying a home, we should be, first and foremost, letting people know upfront what they're truly looking at having to spend to get these cars back on the road. You've been around long enough, and you know that the numbers aren't in our favor, and with each passing day, and each new owner of a used LGT, the likelihood of it needing an engine rebuild increases. It's not an IF, it's a WHEN, and that's a fact you can't argue with. Most LGTs are daily drivers and the sole vehicle of their owners. When faced with major mechanical failure, like white smoke and oil all over the engine bay, you're not doing the OP any favors by sugarcoating your advice. You personally know how much these cars cost to own and maintain just as well as any of us -- the newbies need to know, too, as it's a very significant factor in the repair process.

 

Believe me, BMB, I'm crossing my fingers for OP's good luck and that it's only something minor. Just once, I'd love to see someone get an easy-out on major mechanical issues. However, let's be realistic here and not coddle him with, "It's gonna be OK, man" bullsh!t. If you're driving at high-speed (I know, to some of you, 80mph isn't exactly "high-speed" on the local freeways, but it's well in-excess of most state speed limits.) and you experience a sudden shutdown and see oil all over the engine bay, it's not good.

 

If it's just a popped oil line and he can get away with a new hose and better clamps -- I'll dance at his wedding. But if it's a HG, were you honestly going to tell him to just repair the one side and call it a day?

 

I know it's a holiday and all but, get real, dude!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators

Not trying to sugarcoat things, just trying to start at the top instead of jumping to conclusions.

 

OP, if the smoke is coming from the tailpipe that's not a good sign--likely the turbo (best case) or the motor. Either way, driving the car further before diagnosing is a bad idea.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ignore us, OP, we're just arguing for the sake of arguing -- but seriously, the odds are not in your favor, here. Just prepare yourself for that, mentally.

 

Do you know how to do a compression test on these engines? The proof will be in those numbers.

 

Do a quick search and read up on how to drop your downpipe and check your turbo for shaft play.

 

All this smoke and action and really no CELs?

 

If it's a blown HG, you won't see a coolant/oil milkshake like you do on other cars, you'll just get shitty compression numbers.

 

Drop the DP and check your turbo, and do a comp test. That's a good first step to figuring out what your next steps should be. Then, hop back into the Colorado section and find a good shop if you're not planning on doing the work yourself. Count yourself lucky that you live in one of the best states for Subarus!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators
Ignore us, OP, we're just arguing for the sake of arguing -- but seriously, the odds are not in your favor, here. Just prepare yourself for that, mentally.

 

Do you know how to do a compression test on these engines? The proof will be in those numbers.

 

Do a quick search and read up on how to drop your downpipe and check your turbo for shaft play.

 

All this smoke and action and really no CELs?

 

If it's a blown HG, you won't see a coolant/oil milkshake like you do on other cars, you'll just get shitty compression numbers.

 

Drop the DP and check your turbo, and do a comp test. That's a good first step to figuring out what your next steps should be. Then, hop back into the Colorado section and find a good shop if you're not planning on doing the work yourself. Count yourself lucky that you live in one of the best states for Subarus!

 

Yup, pretty much arguing because internetz. ^^All of this is good info. Just start at the external stuff. Like I said earlier if there is physically oil in the engine bay that's strange--find out where it's coming from. If it's only coming out the tailpipe you have an internal issue.

 

Don't start the car with the thought that it will be ok to drive it "just a few miles" to get to wherever. You'll possibly cause more damage and will possibly end up kicking yourself later.

 

dicknuts!

 

:lol:

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Prepare for the worst, hope for the best.

 

I had a little transmission noise a while back. Ended up replacing the transmission. Little bit of oil usage... Replaced the turbo.

 

Stuff adds up quick, sure... adds up a LOT quicker if you don't diagnose the problem correctly the first time.

 

Take your time discovering the real problem(s).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

either turbo or head gasket, you checked and stated nothing is mixing...it's your turbo. Hopefully it didn't through parts in to your motor. But strange part is oil on the drivers side scene turbo is on the passenger side. Leads me back to head gasket... clean it up and start investigating....
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have to agree. Don't automatically rule that your going to need a new motor but it is a possibility.

I just finished doing a rebuild to my motor and like stated above as you take apart stuff your likely to find more issues as you go.

When I did mine it was just to do the top end and replace all of the gaskets and water pump and head studs, and belts. You name it.

Got the heads off and stared doing the valve seals and ended up having two shot valve guides so had to send them to a machine shop to have all the guides replaced and machine the heads.

Got the whole car put back together and the car for about 300 miles and then my turbo popped.

Ordered a BNR Evo 16 g and put that in and then needed a tune which was also a headache because I was building 31 pounds of boost and could not understand why. Had to get BNR to send me a new exhaust side of the turbo with a different waste gate, and well....

a few thousand dollars later I thought my rebuild was done. But then Thursday on my way home to NY from Boston got the CEL. Now I need to replace my cam gears.

Not saying all of this to scare you OP but just as a warning to make sure before you start digging that you have contingency money because there are unexpected things that may happen and it could cost more then you originally intended. Just don't want to see another member start the work and run out of money and not be able to finish.

 

Luckily I did all of the work myself at my family owned shop and had enough money for all of these little odds and ends. But like it was said above don't cut any corners with the work that you are doing because it is going to end up costing you in the long run.

For example I thought about replacing these cam gears while I was doing the work originally because we messed with them a bit but I didn't want to spend the extra money then for something that probably wouldn't fail and guess what they failed and I have to take another day of working on my car when it would of added 15 more minutes to my build and the money for the parts.

 

Do your research, and get opinions from multiple authorized mechanics that aren't out just to take advantage of your situation. The vendors on here are very respectable for the reason that they want to help you the best way possible and they aren't money hungry. Good luck on your rebuild.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds like you had the exact same problem I did back in January. With my car the oil line blew apart and when the turbo didn't receive the proper lubrication, the turbo seized and took the engine along with it. There was oil spray everywhere and while the car ran, it had no power and was pouring smoke out the hood, the air vents and the exhaust due to the oil burning off. The dealer i bought the car from replaced my short block and turbo with a new unit no questions asked because it was the FIRST day i had the car. They told me "it was 7,000 dollars to replace the engine" which sounds like a hell of a lot of money but when the engine went i also damages valves and my cylinder heads. Tow it into your mechanic to have it inspected to be sure but unfortunately it looks like you're going to be sinking a few thousand at minimum to have the legacy back on the road. Good luck
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Puffing smoke out the tail pipe I checked the oil level it was full yesterday and after this it's down to half I will try and upload pics ASAP

 

 

Been 5 day's since the OP posted...Any updates ?

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

White smoke = water in the combustion chamber.

 

Likely cracked head or bad head gasket.

 

He is not loosing coolant.:mad:

"Belief does not make truth. Evidence makes truth. And belief does not make evidence."
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use