GrimmSpeed 08+ WRX/LGT Top Mount Intercooler - Any Interest?

Agreed with the 250whp comment. I'd love to get closer to 300whp without loosing too much quick, sub-3000rpm spool, but that might be getting close to having cake and eating it or something like that.

 

400whp sounds good to me... probably won't ever get that high, but if I'm going to spend $6-800 on a TMIC, would I get one that's "good" for my power numbers but fits like dookie or would I want one that's slightly too big for my power numbers but fits minty? I'd get the one that's slightly too big... bragging to friends is good for another 10whp, right?

Quality fitment is worth the price of admission.

To be confident that you put it on once and everything falls into place and nothing blows off.

Quality fitment is worth the price of admission.

 

To be confident that you put it on once and everything falls into place and nothing blows off.

It's like you're reading my mind. Fitment is everything for me.

It's like you're reading my mind. Fitment is everything for me.

I think that comes from being here as long as I have.

First of all ... thanks for the support Matt!

An IAT sensor bung is huge! and it can be capped for those that don't feel the need to relocate theirs. If they understood the benefit, all at/beyond stg 2 would move it.

Please consider this, thanks.

Second, "I think an iat sensor bung on the outlet side would be enough to set it apart from the rest and make a lot of people switch over. This would be great for speed density tuning on a tmic setup. It would also give a lot of people the ability to easily measure true Intake temps since there are a lot of tech geeks that just want to know."

Oh and BTW, if this works out I'd be switching from a FMIC

Good stuff, guys! I agree 100% with the IAT sensor bung. I run speed density myself and having some extra meat designed into the casting for threads will be excellent.

Also, got some goodies from our pals at Turbosmart today! We will be guaranteeing TMIC/Splitter fitment with their Dual Port BPV, which sits just under 4.5in tall off the flange face. That should give you dudes plenty of room.

Matt Beenen

Engineering

Good stuff, guys! I agree 100% with the IAT sensor bung. I run speed density myself and having some extra meat designed into the casting for threads will be excellent.

 

Also, got some goodies from our pals at Turbosmart today! We will be guaranteeing TMIC/Splitter fitment with their Dual Port BPV, which sits just under 4.5in tall off the flange face. That should give you dudes plenty of room.

 

Matt Beenen

Engineering

 

would this be the sensor you're most likely to design around?

http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/products_id/400

a few notes:

reading up on it, it seems very sensitive to heat soak, and that some people on nasioc have stated the importance of clocking the sensor element perpendicular to the flow path of the charge air. Also being sure to place as much of the sensor element in the air path as possible (the entire plastic part of the sensor should be within the confines of the piping) , not have it shrouded by not being deep enough in the bung hole.

also to note, if this is the sensor in question, the thread profile is 3/8" - 18 NPTF. Not standard NPT threads.

Here's a short primer on NPTF:

taken from http://instrumentationtubing.blogspot.com/2012/12/140-threads-used-for-tube-fittings.html

14.5 Dry Seal NPTF Threads

Dryseal pipe threads are based on the USA (American) pipe thread; however, they differ from the USA (American) pipe thread in that they are designed to seal pressure tight joints without the necessity of using sealing compounds. To accomplish this some modification of thread form and greater accuracy in

manufacture is required.

The roots of both external and internal threads are truncated slightly more than the crest, i.e. roots have wider flats than the crests, so that metal to metal contact occurs as the crests and the roots coincident with or prior to flank contact, see figure-14-7. Thus as the threads are assembled wrenching, the roots of the threads crush the sharper +crests of the mating threads .This sealing action at both the major and

minor diameters tends to prevent spiral leakage and pressure tight without the necessity of using sealing compounds, provided that the mating threads are in accordance with standard specification and tolerance and are damaged by galling in the assembly. The control of crest and root truncation is simplified by the use of properly designed threading tools. Also it is desirable that both for the length. However, where not functionally objectionable, the use of a compatible lubricant or sealant may be used to minimize the possibility of galling. This is desirable in assembling dryseal pipe threads in refrigeration and other systems to affect a pressure tight seal.

In order to obtain a pressure tight seal using dryseal pipe threads without a sealer, it is necessary to hold crest and truncation of both internal and external threads within the limits specified. Unless this is done by use of threading tools with the crest and root truncation controlled so assure reproduction on the product of threads, it is necessary to use a system of measuring or a system of gauging and measuring to determine conformance.

There are two classes of Dryseal pipe threads viz. Class-I and Class-II Dryseal pipe threads. The classes differ only in inspection requirements. For class-I threads, inspection of roots and crest is not required while for class-Ii threads these inspections are required.

External Dryseal threads are tapered only while internal Dryseal threads may be either straight or tapered. Also, the thread lengths may be either standard or short depending on the requirement of the application. Short threads are obtained by shortening the length of the standard thread by one pitch.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qzvpxUB42Sw/UM3-Otr9WvI/AAAAAAAAAsE/wGB_BdsdeLI/s320/fig_14_7_external_mating_conditions_for_dryseal_pipe_threads.PNG

The minimum material condition as shown at the left is established by having the mating crests and roots of equal truncation so as to assure metal to metal contact at these points coincident with flank contact. The condition is established at the sharpest root and the flattest crest and gives no clearance. Tolerances at the crests and the roots are established in the direction of interference only, therefore the maximum material condition shown at the right is established by having the extreme combination of sharpest crests and flattest roots, which provide the maximum interference.

When threaded joints are made wrench tight, it is intended that the flanks and crests and roots shall be in contact.

Figure14-8-: Basic dimensions of NPTF threads

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wMYSzHJ_SDA/UM3-WfFQtAI/AAAAAAAAAsU/NDyIxHrc6zM/s400/table_14_8_basic_dimensions_of_NPTF_threads.PNG

Lot's of technical info in that post that hopefully is useful, all I got out of it was...

by not being deep enough in the bung hole.

 

Definitely interested in a better TMIC option and loving the idea for an extra bung for IAT or even meth for those using it.. Some of us have no interest in a FMIC but still want to be able flow enough to cover all the standard LGT turbo upgrades (BNR) on E85..

I'm using an IPR right now and it's a real pos.. It needs to come in cheaper than the PW though..

Definitely interested in a better TMIC option and loving the idea for an extra bung for IAT or even meth for those using it.. Some of us have no interest in a FMIC but still want to be able flow enough to cover all the standard LGT turbo upgrades (BNR) on E85..

 

I'm using an IPR right now and it's a real pos.. It needs to come in cheaper than the PW though..

Off the top of my head, the Grimmspeed STI one was $225 +/- cheaper than the Process West one.

Things I hate about my AVO:

The flange surfaces suck. I can't get a gasket to seal at all. I have to use rtv every time I remove it. Having a groove cut for the factory oring would be awesome.

Bpv bolts thread into end tank. I have to use rtv there as well. The threads also strip easily. I've already helicoiled them.

NPT bungs for meth nozzles would be a nice option. Or at least have a boss that is a bit thicker than the rest of the end tank so one can drill and tap it themselves.

hmm, a thick boss. that's a good idea. maybe like the other grimmspeed products, there could be a click down box to add the IAT sensor bung or meth injector location(s). so for less exciting people, we'd have a relatively un-holey TMIC, but there was meat and the option of extra machining.

i'm on the opposite side and could care less about an IAT sensor or meth injection. and the less holes to worry about... (not that I wouldn't like to see the option for everyone included)

I also like the idea of re-using the stock gasket. wouldn't even need a perfect flange (not that you won't make one).

I was checking out the size of the stock splitter today and never realized how much wider the scoop was than the splitter; I am sure a splitter could be designed more efficiently. Also I think I am the only one who mentioned wanting to keep the stock engine cover anyway.

So I will change my answer from wanting to keep the engine cover to I would like whatever solution works for the best fitting and best cooling IC + splitter system

Everything sounds awesome so far, and I can't wait to see (and order!) the final product.

Eric

I'm glad I logged back in to find this. I have been considering a new TMIC vs. top mount AWIC for a while. I would like to keep it as simple as possible, so this is a great plan. I think a lot of folks would like this. I have had great experience with GrimmSpeed's parts as well as customer service. After saving a few bucks on various knock-off parts over the years, there is simply no dollar equivalent to a company that makes parts that ACTUALLY FIT the vehicle without many hours wasted in fitting/refitting/re-refitting.

Summed up

-interested in TMIC

-Interested in splitter add-on/revise

-Keep up the good work, GrimmSpeed.

Definitely interested if it's out by the time I get tuned.

yeh, that's the thing. A lot of guys are in for stage2/3 upgrades pretty soon and once tuned no one will buy new TMIC just to spend more money on yet another tune. My point is, any kind of delivery estimate, even if it's just a wild guess would be better than nothing. It would be pretty disapointing to tune car on stage 2 setup in my case just to find out 2 weeks later that god of all TMIC is out

I think the rough arrival estimate in the thread over on nasioc is early 2014:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=40500248&postcount=91

Eric

yeh, that's the thing. A lot of guys are in for stage2/3 upgrades pretty soon and once tuned no one will buy new TMIC just to spend more money on yet another tune. My point is, any kind of delivery estimate, even if it's just a wild guess would be better than nothing. It would be pretty disapointing to tune car on stage 2 setup in my case just to find out 2 weeks later that god of all TMIC is out

Yep. I'm not going to wait around for it. But if they had a general timeframe I would plan around it. If it's not out by late winter I'll probably end up going with a front mount.