all mods, all at once

Sitting here with no kids and no wife, caretaker for family property so low rent, stable job, and a car I don't have to use to get to work, at least for now. Will be finished paying for it shortly, and I'm being tempted...

 

Tempted to throw step-by-step tweaking and modding to the wind, and just go all out, all at once.

 

Ayup, problems will be tougher to solve, but at least everything will only be apart once. And the thought of starting with a fairly stock LGT and by then end, pretty much having my opinion of what a dream LGT is (think RS4 avant but cheaper, lighter and faster) to enjoy for that many more years, is sounding appealing.

 

Folks with highly modded LGTs, how did you go about the process? How did your approach/thoughts change as you got bit more by the modding bug?

 

11/26/07 Parts List Update is here:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1524452#post1524452

I personally started by getting an AEM CAI and a Short Throw Shifter a couple years ago when I got the car new. This spring I got an AP to prep for the rest of the process. This allows you to kill CEL codes from the beginning of the serious mods and change maps easily as you go. After that I tackled the exhaust by doing a Perrin UP, Autospeed DP and SPT CBE and got a TDC Stage2 e-tune. Then I did a lightweight pully just to smooth things out. I also new tires this spring. Then this week I got a new Perrin TMIC, GT Spec Header/UP along with a few rolls of heat wrap to keep the engine bay a little cooler. This is all in prep for a new LGT mount type turbo. I also got a new Spec Stage2 Clutch Pack to handle the added power. I will then be getting a new TDC tune by the end of the month.

To go along with these engine parts; I also got Perrin Endlink and Hawk HPS Brake Pads to help with handling and stopping and in prep for swaybars and coilovers that I will be doing in the spring. I have thought/shopped long and hard about what I wanted and how to get there since I like to do things right the first time and parts are just too expensive to buy over and over. So far I'm in for about $5200 worth of parts this year to get to where I'm at.

 

Here is a link that pretty well covers the long list that most owners have done:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31762&highlight=mods+order

Well now is the time huh? Is beantown also Seattle?

Of course with any modifications you will always want "more" out of the car.

 

I did what you want to do, then I sold alot of what I bought and slowed down. The reason is I wanted to drive the car with the "bit by bit" mods. This way I could analyze my driving style, the roads I take, and the weather I face. With this information I am starting to better narrow down what types of equipment I want to invest in.

 

Of course rollin' straight through to stage II will set you up for additional cost in the future(e.g. FMIC/TMIC, CAI, bigger turbo, injectors...). so take your time with the mods. The LGT is really fun stage I with suspension and a CBE. I would reccommend starting with your suspension, CBE, brakes and wheels. Then UP and Accessport/Tune. Drive it like that for a while. See what works and what doesn't and where you further enjoy your driving experience.

 

I would also recommend searching all of the member classifieds for the parts you want. Buying used will save you if...in the event you decide that the part is not the right one for you, you will not be out several $$$.

 

I have alot of people on this forum to thank because every part I have bought used. With the exception of the AP and the brakes. There are alot of things out there for your car as you already know. Just promise you won't spend too much time on asthetics and focus on performance. Good luck and keep us posted.

Probably should have mentioned what I've already done... UP/shorty DP, tune, ss lines, bobcat pads, under braces. Been on the car anywhere from 20-24 months. Custom tuned for about 18 months now. Took the car to a road course (NHIS) track school, autocross, autocross school, rallycross, dirt roads with boats on the roof, camping, hiking, blahblahblah.

 

Stage II really isn't cutting it for me anymore in terms of power, and I'm tired of the dive/squat out of the suspension, the somewhat numb steering feel and the overall looseness of the car, if that makes sense.

 

Thinking part of it is in my head along with OEM bushings getting tired along with the chassis/suspension loosening up after driving hundreds of miles of dirt roads with gear.

 

Reason I'm asking is that pretty much everything on the car engine-wise can stay with an upgrade (unless I go with a header with different UP mount or omgomg rotated turbo setup).

 

There's the small step of say pump, injectors, TMIC and a 18G/Avo 380 for example. Fairly straight forward. However, two-three years from now when I want more, FMIC would probably make sense. Thinking about doing all now including the 'other' stuff (TGV deletes, headers, CAI for example) and enjoy the benefits of it now versus adding it to a depreciating asset two years from now.

 

No aesthetic mods at all. Well actually, there will be one. Like the look of ten spoke wheels, and there's something about the idea of 245/40/17 tires that I can't get out of my head, eventhough they are more expensive, weigh more, and I doubt I'll use their additional contact patch to their full advantage. My one weakness to car vanity I guess, hah.

I like the doing more early approach, so you can enjoy the mods longer.

 

vs. doing expensive mods 5 months before selling the car

Beanboy,

there is a thread started for an STi swap for sale, then Sean from Ralli-tek still has a beefy (I think 18Gg) turbo for sale. Just a heads up. I would go through and find the links for you but I'm at work. Besides, with you having >2000 posts...you can find em.

There is always "farmer Jons" mod thread that has been going on for quite sometime and it seems he has experimented with a whole host of extensive mods in his quest for power. You might want to hit him up for his advise.

Bean........finally making the big step ehhh:):)

Go all @ one time for sure, no second guessing along the way & your wrenching time will be much less also.

A RS4 beater eh?

That will not be to hard to to performance wise;)

 

I'll send you a Pm with my suggestions

My LGT is pretty stock, but I come from a heavily modded STI (built block, 35r, forged pistons, etc etc). THAT was around what an RS4 puts out. If you really want to go into that territory, you'll need a much larger turbo than an 18G, and be ready for some serious down time with your car. If this is your only car, I would recommend against it.

07 RS4 is a 330-340whp car in stock form......

 

Just over 3,700lbs

07 RS4 is a 330-340whp car in stock form......

 

Just over 3,700lbs

 

hmmm, I thought it was 480 crank, so around 390 whp. Must be thinking of the RS6....

If you have the $$$$ do it all at once and get a good tune.

 

I have parts with various miles... which means I have to replace, rebuild at scheduled times (suspension) not all at once.

 

I would never reccomend an FMIC unless you want to go big. Most people are pretty satisfied with around 300-330 WHP with a TMIC and WI.

 

Don't hack that bumper... it could come back to haunt you.....

Ayup, I've read many a thread here over the past three years.

 

End goal is around the ~350WHP (yes I'm reading the thread) mark. Why? Like to keep the internals happy. No guarantee I know, but there's fair amount of folks that say that's a decent number in terms of internal engine life. Same goes for the transmission and diffs. I won't be rocking the dragstrip more than once maybe twice a year, so hopefully I might only have to worry about the clutch at somepoint.

 

Thread is more about doing it all at once, along with not just one area but all areas of the car, versus doing over time, and the advantages and disadvantages about going that route.

 

Thinking FMIC, since I know in a couple of years I'll toss in WI, and/or bigger turbo without having to deal with a FMIC then.

Your only disadvantage is a longer downtime.

 

A build like this if you drop it off at a shop can take months if the shop has to order the parts.

 

I would order all the parts you want, wait for them all to get in, inspect them, throw them in the wagon and drop it off.

UP/TBE, headers, 20G, FMIC, CAI, and a good tune should get you close to that....best thing is you can do it all, well except tune, yourself in a day or 2...

Oh yes, I know from my limited tweaking everything takes three times longer than I think it will, which is four times longer than what the folks saying the parts will be ready say.

 

As for shop time, I may tackle a bit myself with some help. Say antiroll bars/coilovers/some bushings before I head to a shop for stuff like pressing LCAs/dyno/corner balancing/alignment/balancing tires. Same goes for midpipe/catback. Might save the turbo/FMIC/headers for the place that will tune the car so I don't have to deal with an emailed "limp" tune or flatbedding the car. Not sure I want to practice my self-tuning yet, although I will certainly be paying attention as the car is tuned (especially if using open source solution).

 

I'm gonna start asking folks that have done all this already and see what their experience has been like.

 

So disadvantages so far:

Longer down time, get parts ready.

More $$$ all at once.

Anybody mention/have issues with if there is a problem, tracking it down since 5 things have been changed at once?

Problems are usually pretty easy to track with the performance (engine) side of things.

 

Suspension is even easier diagnose.

wukindada, you gots a PM. GRP wagon wuv FTW

 

Hmm... I'm not seeing many disadvantages people.

hmmm, I thought it was 480 crank, so around 390 whp. Must be thinking of the RS6....

07 RS4 is rated 420hp/318ftlb

wukindada, you gots a PM. GRP wagon wuv FTW

 

Hmm... I'm not seeing many disadvantages people.

 

 

Down time that's it!

A full weekend incl. tuning ......thats it;)

so, wait...you still have the stock wheels, tires, sways, springs, shocks?

so, wait...you still have the stock wheels, tires, sways, springs, shocks?

 

A yesss...

 

With the Megan Outback coilovers and Bilstein HD hitting the market a little while ago, figure I now have multiple options that will fit what I want. Along with that comes the antiroll bars, and now that the RE92s have been battered and abused, time to ditch them as well. Stock sized tires will perform just fine, the bling factor of 17x8s and 245s have my attention.

 

Really didn't want to take anything off the car right away, wanted to get a feel for what I wanted handling-wise and wear/tire out suspension bits before removing anything.

Needless to say that will be taken care of first;)

Well there's your problem with squat, dive and overall "poor" handling!