CovertRussian's 05 LGT Build Thread

Wait your saying they don't? Doesn't every other car manufacturer sell a long block?

Yeah I could totally get a 2.0T ATS long block for an ungodly amount.

Or even better, full crate performance motors ready to plug in and go.....like:

https://fordperformanceracingparts.com/crateengine/main.asp#mod

Good Samaritan Max Capacity pointed me towards another flaw in the stock Legacy Tune. 05-06 Legacy's add 2* to Cylinders 2 and 4 which starts being a real big issue once you start increasing the power. Subaru saw this as an issue and zeroed out the tables stock on 07+ Legacy's.

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/ECU/Timing%20Compensation/TimingComp-Stock.png~original

 

As you can see stock tune adds 2.11* starting at 3600rpm.

 

Fix is simple, just zero it all out!

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/ECU/Timing%20Compensation/TimingComp-Zeroed.png~original

 

 

I wanted to do test and see if any power was lost due to less timing. I did two side by side runs on the same stretch of road. To avoid inconsistencies with self learning I set IAM to 1.0 as the default and did the run right after flashing the tune.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/ECU/Timing%20Compensation/TimingComp-StockvsZero.jpg~original

 

As always take these tests with a grain of salt, I was surprised that I didn't loose any power, even more surprised it gained anything.

 

Actually some tuners actually retard the dog leg cylinders by 1 degree in high load. These two cylinders tend to absorb more heat so the reduction in timing helps to further reduce chances of knock. Cobb reported those findings after I raised my concerns of the additional timing in 2 & 4. Also variable cylinder timing exists in many other subaru tunes aside from 05-06 lgt.

Also I'm a bit surprised your findings with AVCS. As in my experience more cam advance (not in boost), gets more air into the cylinder, and thus requires more fuel. I have found some mpg by running 0 advance in low load cruising and gently ramping it up to help spool.

Also I'm a bit surprised your findings with AVCS. As in my experience more cam advance (not in boost), gets more air into the cylinder, and thus requires more fuel. I have found some mpg by running 0 advance in low load cruising and gently ramping it up to help spool.

 

I've been reading more about this recently since I found out that new Tacomas run Atkinson cycle engines. Basically AVCS lets our Otto engines be somewhat like Atkinson engines, but without exhaust AVCS we are fairly limited on how far we can take this.

 

I personally found that running 0 AVCS at highway speeds made a ton more torque, the car would thrust forward with cruise control. I think running 10* dilutes (EGR's) the mixture enough to make less power, thus it requires a bigger throttle opening to drive the car at same speed, which reduces the pumping losses.

 

A while ago I did a bunch of highway logs and compared AVCS 0, 5, 10, 15. I found that AVCS 0 and 5 showed a higher calculated MPG and I think somewhat smaller average injector pulse widths. I loaded the 0* AVCS tune and went on a 2hr drive, got 26.37mpg, couple days went to same city, loaded AVCS 10* map same temps, but with an extra person, got 29.44mpg. To be fair it did rain half of the way on the 26mpg trip, but I haven't found rain eating up 3mpg in the past.

Gaining 3 mpg seems like a massive change. Without seeing AFR's its hard to say. The extra load may push you into open loop more often in mid load and it could be leaner depending on the rest of the tune.

Gaining 3 mpg seems like a massive change. Without seeing AFR's its hard to say. The extra load may push you into open loop more often in mid load and it could be leaner depending on the rest of the tune.

 

Yup this is why I call it the holy grail of MPG. By far the best single change at least for me. This is with 45* peak cruising. But I saw similar results with 40* peak cruising too. Now 48* put me over the edge and IAM was knocked down. So maybe I should try running 43*.

 

I also keep track of ambient temperatures because the tune adds more timing below 50*.

 

To the open loop point, I have found disabling CL to OL delay has helped my fuel economy on highways that go through mountains.

Disabling CL helps mileage? That doesn't make much sense either, since it clearly is richer with CL off. Now again this depends on how your maf is calibrated, perhaps if your running 15:0 afr in open loop vs 14.7 in closed. Seems to me the only way mpg could go up.

Disabling CL helps mileage? That doesn't make much sense either, since it clearly is richer with CL off. Now again this depends on how your maf is calibrated, perhaps if your running 15:0 afr in open loop vs 14.7 in closed. Seems to me the only way mpg could go up.

 

This is with stock MAF scales, stock fuel map and timing map. It was interesting to see this, but when you really think about it makes perfect sense especially when you consider the terrain. Leaning out the fuel mixture doesn't mean the average MPG will increase too, when you lean out you loose torque really quickly. This means you need more throttle and get into boost more when going up a mountain, it was to the point that the car would jerk a bit trying to keep 14.7afr going up the mountain in 5th gear.

 

When I disabled the CL to OL delay, going up the same mountain the fuel mixture was now around 13 AFR and had plenty of power without going into boost too much (it sits at 0psi mostly).

 

Now I know that sounds contradicting to my other post, where I said less power means you have to open throttle more to reduce pumping losses, but as with everything in life there is a balance. If you open the throttle so much that your in boost all of the time your loosing gas mileage, but if you go from -20in/Hg to -15 to -10in/Hg you should see some benefits.

I picked up a Gates metal AC idler thinking I had a stock plastic idler. Went to install the new idler anyway to find out that the center bolt was rusted onto the bearing, which lead me to get the Dorman bolt kit.

 

Part Numbers:

Metal AC Idler: GATES 38030

Idler Nut and Bolt Set: DORMAN 917124

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Pulleys/AC%20Idler/20151125_161601.jpg~original

 

Gates pulley vs unknown, little bummed that Gates stopped using name brand bearings. This is the bolt that was rusted onto the bearing, I used some anti-size on the new bolt/bearing.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Pulleys/AC%20Idler/20151125_163141.jpg~original

 

This is where this "quick job" took an extra hour to do. If you look at the new pulley above you'll see a rub mark. This is from the new pulley bracket rubbing against it, guess the metal pulleys are bigger then stock plastic ones.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Pulleys/AC%20Idler/20151125_163455.jpg~original

 

Here is what the stock one looks like, I was about to use it until I noticed it's made out of plastic and the hole is elongated.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Pulleys/AC%20Idler/20151125_163442.jpg~original

 

New one vs stock, you can see the size difference.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Pulleys/AC%20Idler/20151125_163527.jpg~original

 

Used the good old angle grinder to shave it down to give it enough clearance.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Pulleys/AC%20Idler/20151125_164527.jpg~original

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Pulleys/AC%20Idler/20151125_164545.jpg~original

 

Since scrubbed the paint off might it needs repainting, might as well paint the other bracket too.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Pulleys/AC%20Idler/20151125_165216.jpg~original

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Pulleys/AC%20Idler/20151125_173205.jpg~original

 

Assembled and installed

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Pulleys/AC%20Idler/20151125_174911.jpg~original

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Pulleys/AC%20Idler/20151125_175332.jpg~original

 

I know this one is hard to see, but it's checking the clearance from timing belt cover and the idler pulley

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Pulleys/AC%20Idler/20151125_175443.jpg~original

Yeah 05 that was a metal pulley later replaced with plastic one because supposedly the metal one would overheat/fail and take the bearing. I broke that tab and ended up replacing all of that.

 

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k280/merc6/LGT/9F6B8039-0557-4029-991D-949EDB8FE20F_zpslzeplsle.jpg~original

Edited November 26, 2015 by Merc6

I thought it was the other way around? My 04 FXT had a plastic idler. MrTris also confirms that 05's were plastic stock.

 

This also makes sense on why I see ac belt damage to AC plug and timing cover, stock plastic idler gave out (instead of crank pulley) and tore up some crap as the belt ripped.

Maybe its one of those early, late builds things. Mine was metal and the replacement was plastic. Parts guy who also had a LGT had explained it to me that way.

I think the issue might be Subaru using cheap bearings, like they do with TOB's and Wheel Bearings. Thus using plastic pulleys is a band aid, since plastic will not transmit heat as much from the belts to the bearings.

 

If this was a metal pulley issue then OEM timing belt idlers would be plastic too.

Not sure about that as I didn't break that one yet, LOL. Actually I didn't take apart most my engine so I may look and see if that's another random snag on reassembly hidden. Broke one exhaust cam gear trying to remove it w/o the cam tool and the other when the shop had to chisel the other bolt off.

Ouch, those suckers are expensive too. I shaved mine a little when taking the cam bolt off myself.

 

I picked up a spare set a of cam gears from the forums just in case mine ever break.

Lovely logbook. Keep it up!

Let me give one piece of advice:

 

 

It will be easier and more logical to indicate the next fresh updates with date, when the manipulation is accomplished.

Lovely logbook. Keep it up!

Let me give one piece of advice:

 

 

It will be easier and more logical to indicate the next fresh updates with date, when the manipulation is accomplished.

 

Just go by the post date . I usually post mods in order that I do them, usually post same day or a few days after doing the mod.

I'm starting to build a parts list for the oil feed line for the 16G turbo I have laying around. I'm trying not to starve AVCS thus I'm planning on using -6an lines for that and -4an for the turbo.

 

I wanted to see what oil pressures the AVCS line was seeing thus wired in my pressure gauge to the AVCS banjo bolt.

 

Removed the intake S bend to get to the banjo bolt:

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/Oil%20Pressure/20151213_202734.jpg~original

 

Pulled it out, here is the -4an fitted bolt vs stock banjo bolt

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/Oil%20Pressure/20151213_203102.jpg~original

 

Installed with some new crush washers

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/Oil%20Pressure/20151213_204110.jpg~original

 

Had to get a little creative on running the line, it's meant to feed the turbo thus is much longer then needed, you can see the connector to another line that goes to the gauge.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/Oil%20Pressure/20151213_205209.jpg~original

 

Connected the oil pressure gauge

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/Oil%20Pressure/20151213_200908.jpg~original

 

Cold start psi is at 90psi!

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/Oil%20Pressure/20151213_205743.jpg~original

 

With the car fully warmed up, water temps above 170*F, while cruising my oil pressure was around 70psi with AVCS at 7-10*, if I let go of the throttle my AVCS would drop to 0* and my pressure would drop to about 50psi.

 

I couldn't fit the S bend intake too well over this line, thus pulled it tonight and will rewire in the oil pressure gauge when I do the new turbo oil feed. The plan is to tee it into the turbo feed line to see how the turbo is doing on oil pressure.

New Gauge Holder

 

The straight gauge holder spaces the gauges too far out to fit with the radio surround.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/CIMG1300.jpg~original

 

Using a gauge holder that brings them closer together (while staggering them) seems to fit them. I still had to trim the top and bottom portion of the surround off thanks to the AEM's huge bezel

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/20151218_085756.jpg~original

 

 

Power Steering Clamp

 

Power steering line has been seeping oil for couple months now, figured I would replace it with a worm clamp. When I went to compress the old clamp it split into two, makes sense on why it was leaking.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Power%20Steering/20151219_152116.jpg~original

 

Couldn't really get the clamp off without cutting it, used a dremel cut off wheel, sorry for the potato pic.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Power%20Steering/20151219_152759.jpg~original

 

Cleaned the oil up a bit, we'll see if it gets dirty again, if it does new hose time.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Power%20Steering/20151219_153209.jpg~original

 

 

Front Swaybar Bushings

 

Had these for a long while too, finally stopped being lazy and got the front swaybar bushings replaced.

 

Stock

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Swaybar/Front%20Bushings/20151205_164349.jpg~original

 

They were starting to crack badly. Replacement bushings are Whitelines.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Swaybar/Front%20Bushings/20151205_164747.jpg~original

 

 

And installed and greased

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Swaybar/Front%20Bushings/20151205_165309.jpg~original

Are you really using a 6an for the oil feed from the AVCS banjo ?

 

-4an should be fine.

Are you really using a 6an for the oil feed from the AVCS banjo ?

 

-4an should be fine.

 

OEM hardline is closer to, if not bigger, then -6an.

 

 

I'm gonna build a -4an one first though, since I have 90% of the parts already. If AVCS responds well I'll use -4an permanently, if it has issues keeping up then I'll start building -6an.

I would think the -4 would give enough flow to the orifice at the turbo banjo, but I'm not a fluid specialist.

Turbo doesn't need much at all, -3an is sufficient for OEM turbos (but Subaru decided to use -4an hard line and restrictor on both sides), while AVCS is a bit hungrier. A lot of people use the P&L -4an kit just fine, but there was a guy who killed his motor with a DIY line kit. This is why I'm gonna test it with a -4an and compare logs of stock line.