NoRoadtrippin Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 So about two months ago now, my '09 OBXT spun a bearing, shit itself, committed suicide, etc., etc. I love this car and never considered not fixing it really, but I wasn't sure I would do it myself until reading Mr. Tris thread. After which, I came to the utter realization of the painful truth that I was not a man if I don't do it on my own. Here's the noise it is making: http://vimeo.com/111376491 The dealer said I need $6,096.40 in parts. Hueberger can get me the same parts for $4950.58 for a savings of $1,145.82. That's shipped. Even my local service writer knew that was a nobrainer. I am definitely going to do some upgrades while I am under the hood yanking everything apart. I don't know the full list yet, but all the basics to go Stage II will likely be done. Upgrades/mods already on the car include Whiteline sways, magnaflow catbacks, stainless brake lines, WRX wheels, and nice yellow powdercoating on the calipers. I got GroupN motor mounts, Grimmspeed Lightweight Crank Pulley, and ARP studs for Christmas. Planning to order the bulk of the parts in the next two weeks. More to follow... UPDATE (1/30/15): Been working on the parts list. You'll see an image of what the dealer said I need posted farther down from here. Below is a running tally of what I have actually bought and what it has cost me so far. I will continually update this list. Christmas: ARP Headstuds - FREE GrimmSpeed Lightweight Crank Pulley - FREE Group N Motor Mounts - FREE 1/1/15: Cobb AP V3 (used) - $566.00 1/26/15: OEM Master Gasket Kit - $235.50 OEM Oil Cooler - $209.95 OEM Oil Control Valve (2) - $179.90 Hella Supertones - $56.00 Killer B Oil Pickup - $170.20 GrimmSpeed 8mm Phenolic Spacer - $79.19 1/29/15: Perrin TMIC (used) - $400.00 Venair Silicone Ancillary and MAF Hoses (used) - $90.00 1/31/15: eBay Billet STi Oil Cap - $8.50 Cusco Billet Battery Tie Down - $11.88 StreetRays Alternator Cover - $60.00 HexMods Center Diff Bearings - $239.00 2/21/15: DEI Gold Tape - $31.81 DEI Stainless Locking Ties 8 pack - $13.04 Venair Ancillary Vacuum Hose Kit - $145.00 RA Urethane Mud Flaps - $134.99 3/10/15: PTP Turbo Blanket (Nasioc Group Buy) - $55.00 3/15/15: JmP Turbo Rebuild - $625.00 Jmp Ground Strap Kit - Incl. with turbo this time RUNNING TOTAL: $3310.52 Original parts list as given to me by the dealer: http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/29/e067a1b67c00faab4913c2bcf94e0660.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted December 29, 2014 Moderators Share Posted December 29, 2014 Why all of the head parts? Why not just get your current heads refreshed? Looking at the prices there that should save you another $2k or so less the machine shop costs (maybe $400). "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoRoadtrippin Posted December 29, 2014 Author Share Posted December 29, 2014 I bought the car off of subaruoutback.org, I've actually gotten to be text buddies with the previous owner and she and I discuss the car every few months when I do something to it or it has some kind of work done on it. She's pretty legit for a girl. http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/67-classifieds/51081-fs-2009-obxt-fl-30k-miles.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoRoadtrippin Posted December 29, 2014 Author Share Posted December 29, 2014 Why all of the head parts? Why not just get your current heads refreshed? Looking at the prices there that should save you another $2k or so less the machine shop costs (maybe $400). Yeah, I was under the same impression but since it's my first go around, was going to confirm here first. Those two $640 head assemblies are the parts I'd be getting refreshed rather than buying new, yes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted December 29, 2014 Moderators Share Posted December 29, 2014 Yeah, I was under the same impression but since it's my first go around, was going to confirm here first. Those two $640 head assemblies are the parts I'd be getting refreshed rather than buying new, yes? If they are new parts, no. You would just be paying someone to assemble the heads--cams, valves, etc. Step one is to get the heads off and take 'em to a competent machine shop. Find out if they have any damage that would require replacement. Otherwise, just have them refresh them (deck the surface, check valves, etc) and you should be good. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoRoadtrippin Posted December 29, 2014 Author Share Posted December 29, 2014 Yeah yeah, that's what I am saying...just maybe not clearly....the head assemblies listed as parts I need by Subaru are NOT actually parts I need new so long as mine can be refreshed. I.e. as you said, that $1280 on the parts list can come off and should actually be closer to $400 in labor costs from a machine shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted December 29, 2014 Moderators Share Posted December 29, 2014 Correct. But in addition the camshafts are all head components also, so you should hopefully be able to knock those of the required parts list also. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 See page 9-ish of my rebuild thread for the heads checklist: 1. Machine shop will pressure test. 2. Hot tank 3. Clean the valves and inspect to make sure there is enough sealing surface on the valve itself and if not, replace. 4. Inspect the valve guides and replace if necessary. 5. Inspect the valve seats and replace if necessary. 6. Grind the valves themselves on a valve grinding machine. 7. Grind the seats with a valve seat grinder. 8. Deck the heads (gasket surface) enough without being too much-enough to make sure that they both are flat. 9. Install the valves into the head with assembly lube. 10. Install new valve stem seals on each valve. 11. Reinstall the springs onto each valve stem. 12. Insert your cams and buckets and switch buckets around until they have the valves correctly lashed as per specs. 13. Call you up to come and get them and pay them $400.00 or more, depending on exactly what else is needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 You'll need to give them the cams, cam caps and towers, and the 8/ea grey and green valve guides from the gasket kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMileHighLGT Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 You may want to speak to the machine shop first, they may get you what you need cheaper than what you can get from Subaru. Then valve stem seals and new keepers come in the master gasket set. You've got this. Subscribed. I just did mine. I've got 600 miles now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 It's unlikely you need any work done to your heads unless the bearings disintegrated and trashed your cams and journals. You can remove it and check it for squareness yourself. If it is out of spec, have a shop clean it up. If your current block passes a leakdown, the valves should be fine. You will be partially disassembling the heads when you do this, so you'll know if there is any damage. The head gasket takes care of the inconsistencies in the mating surfaces by crushing to create a seal. This is why you don't reuse them. One note: LABEL ALL VALVE SHIMS WITH THEIR CORRESPONDING LOCATION ON THE HEADS before you think about turning that head over. They will fall out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 It's unlikely you need any work done to your heads unless the bearings disintegrated and trashed your cams and journals. You can remove it and check it for squareness yourself. If it is out of spec, have a shop clean it up. If your current block passes a leakdown, the valves should be fine. You will be partially disassembling the heads when you do this, so you'll know if there is any damage. The head gasket takes care of the inconsistencies in the mating surfaces by crushing to create a seal. This is why you don't reuse them. One note: LABEL ALL VALVE SHIMS WITH THEIR CORRESPONDING LOCATION ON THE HEADS before you think about turning that head over. They will fall out. Valve shims= buckets, for those not in the know. I myself, drew a diagram, though, it was a moot point considering I'd have headwork done and then a valve adjustment at a shop where we'd just trade out buckets. . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 It's unlikely you need any work done to your heads unless the bearings disintegrated and trashed your cams and journals. You can remove it and check it for squareness yourself. If it is out of spec, have a shop clean it up. If your current block passes a leakdown, the valves should be fine. You will be partially disassembling the heads when you do this, so you'll know if there is any damage. The head gasket takes care of the inconsistencies in the mating surfaces by crushing to create a seal. This is why you don't reuse them. One note: LABEL ALL VALVE SHIMS WITH THEIR CORRESPONDING LOCATION ON THE HEADS before you think about turning that head over. They will fall out. ^^^^^THIS - and for good measure, label your cams/caps for location. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 I know from experience. It wasn't too painful to figure them out, but it will save a lot of heartache and nailbiting (and time). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoRoadtrippin Posted January 2, 2015 Author Share Posted January 2, 2015 Thanks all for continued tips. Finally getting it trailered to my buddy's place from the dealer this afternoon. It's been sitting up there for like a month and a half now. I'm a bit ticked because the jerks just left it apart. Not so bad if you know what screws go where, but instead of just saving us some time, now we'll have to try and match up all the screws and shit. http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/02/7584f36959da32e5cb23c7468a412242.jpg http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/02/35d44d45b8c57d074f9a80659436eb5f.jpg http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/02/deacd541a5b7c308698ba250a7f4f9bb.jpg http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/02/7f3eb579f3814e088b59c983f6856e1d.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/02/493c8ce9b6ab2d24ce4744a24c25e5d5.jpg Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 It will not be that bad and several of us should be able to field any "what is this" questions... Good luck man. Good tip on the buckets and cams location mapping. Also check valve lash before the tear down. You may not even need head work. How many miles were on it before the issues? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoRoadtrippin Posted January 3, 2015 Author Share Posted January 3, 2015 78k. I don't even know what the hell valve lash is. I'mma check it fo sho though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 78k. I don't even know what the hell valve lash is. I'mma check it fo sho though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Have you downloaded the FSM yet? If not, you need that shit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoRoadtrippin Posted January 3, 2015 Author Share Posted January 3, 2015 No. Not yet. I'll get it tracked down. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 ^Yeah that... Vacation pictures you need, yes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 It's 100 times easier with the FSM Subaru did a great job documenting it for the service techs, and it's fairly easy to follow the procedure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoRoadtrippin Posted January 27, 2015 Author Share Posted January 27, 2015 So its been a slow start still but I am working towards the goal bit by bit. My buddy got word of a compliant filed about all the cars sitting outside his garage waiting to be worked on so we are having to move mine back down to my place. This will complicate things a bit since I have a carport but no garage. Just not as nice for trapping heat and keeping dirt out of everything. I'm probably gonna try to close the sides up with some tarps. I have the FSM downloaded and have been going through it. Tonight I ordered: - Killer B Oil Pickup - Master Gasket Kit (P/N 10105AB230 is a change from Tris's shopping list to match the fitment on the '09) - OEM Oil Cooler - OEM Oil Control Valves (P/N 10921AA080 also a change from Tris's list) - Hella Supertones - GrimmSpeed 8mm Phenolic Spacers Probably gonna keep shopping and ordering over the next day or two. Need to get the lowering options sorted out. I want to drop just about an inch or so. Thinking LGT struts. My concern is keeping the geometry in spec as much as possible. I don't want to go ripping up axle boots and everything else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 I'm going to say the bowl on the left is definitely timing cover fasteners. They'll be easy to figure out. The bowl on the right looks like the 14mm turbo/exhaust fasteners. IMO, Subaru did a great job with the fasteners, you'll see that very few are hard to find homes for. Though your car is newer than mine and some may be different. I had questions on a few, check my build thread for reference on the odd ones. Thanks all for continued tips. Finally getting it trailered to my buddy's place from the dealer this afternoon. It's been sitting up there for like a month and a half now. I'm a bit ticked because the jerks just left it apart. Not so bad if you know what screws go where, but instead of just saving us some time, now we'll have to try and match up all the screws and shit. http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/02/7584f36959da32e5cb23c7468a412242.jpg Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoRoadtrippin Posted January 31, 2015 Author Share Posted January 31, 2015 Okay so more not so exciting posts...I.e. still no real work. That should change tomorrow. The car is back at my house now from my buddy's. Tomorrow I am going to get it up on stands and start pulling parts off of it. Should be able to get in a good day's work. Especially since I have been looking over the vacation pictures... This week I locked down: Perrin TMIC from the boards here Venair Silicone Hoses Center diff bearings from Climber D @ HexMods Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted January 31, 2015 Share Posted January 31, 2015 Not bad stuff, but, you should replace your turbo while you're at it. You don't want your old, possibly worn out turbo to shit all over your new block, do you? Sorry, had to light that doubtfire in your mind. Send a pm to JmP6889928 and see about sending him your core and getting a custom VF40. Now's a good time, especially if you don't think you'll be up and running anytime soon --gives you, and most importantly, him, a good amount of lead time to get everything squared away. Where are you, tune-wise? AP? Going open source? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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