Cold start-Whining noise

Guys I need your help,

we've been getting some -20 celcius weather and when ever I start it for the first 5 seconds of the engine running it is as if there is a loud belt whining noize. The belts were changed this summer with gates belts.

 

Just wondering if there is anything to do to avoid the squealing noise or what could cause it.

tighten the belt a little

It's a common problem. It's not the belts. Never been able to figure out exactly what it is.

I didn't think it was the belts either because mine did the same thing two days ago and I have just put new belts on myself...if I tighten them anymore I'm afraid they will snap.

Are you sure it's not the starter hanging up for a couple of seconds ?

 

That's a common problem too.

 

You need to grease the starter shaft that the gear slides on to engage the FW.

Not to worry. Mine has always done that, with no problems down the road since new.

 

It sounds terrible, but the engine is still fine.

Isn't that the beginning of the TOB failure? When mine went I thought it was a belt squeal at first. Find a vid of the TOB noise to verify its not that.

Isn't that the beginning of the TOB failure? When mine went I thought it was a belt squeal at first. Find a vid of the TOB noise to verify its not that.

 

Nope:) TOB squeal occurs at any Temp:)

Mine does this as well. No idea what is is. I had a 2000 Toyota Celica that also did this at very cold temps but never had a problem caused by it. Still a mystery. Sounds really bad but goes away in like 3 seconds. Very odd.

Nope:) TOB squeal occurs at any Temp:)

 

Ahh.. So it was just a coincidence that my TOB went when the weather started to cool. Mine sounded the worst when it was cold.. but the cold had nothing to do with it? Interesting.

Mebe a freezing idler pulley due to cold temps?

Ahh.. So it was just a coincidence that my TOB went when the weather started to cool. Mine sounded the worst when it was cold.. but the cold had nothing to do with it? Interesting.

 

Drive until it is warm. Then start it up, listen, put in gear. If it whines TOB. If not, then go right ahead and replace parts for no reason:p

Drive until it is warm. Then start it up, listen, put in gear. If it whines TOB. If not, then go right ahead and replace parts for no reason:p

 

Thanks for the sarcasm.. Good thing I already replaced the TOB 3 months ago.. and good thing I didn't get your advice then. My TOB disintegrated when I touched it. I'm lucky it waited to spill bearings until AFTER the car was on jackstands.

 

Once again, thanks for the help!

Thanks for the sarcasm.. Good thing I already replaced the TOB 3 months ago.. and good thing I didn't get your advice then. My TOB disintegrated when I touched it. I'm lucky it waited to spill bearings until AFTER the car was on jackstands.

 

Once again, thanks for the help!

 

I presumed you knew how to drive a standard shift. My bad:rolleyes: If you are going through TOBs, like they are water, then the problem is with the operator.

 

If your TOB is toast after three months, then YOU have a problem.

increase the volume of your radio while you turn your car on ...abakadabra you hear no more noise

I presumed you knew how to drive a standard shift. My bad:rolleyes: If you are going through TOBs, like they are water, then the problem is with the operator.

 

If your TOB is toast after three months, then YOU have a problem.

 

Legit question here what kind of shifting behaviors do you want to avoid to prevent tob failure? I'm new to stick and had to replace the stock tob at about 90k miles after I had been driving it for about 4k miles and don't want to have to do it again any time soon

keep foot off clutch pedal as much as possible

I presumed you knew how to drive a standard shift. My bad:rolleyes: If you are going through TOBs, like they are water, then the problem is with the operator.

 

If your TOB is toast after three months, then YOU have a problem.

 

Wow. My TOB is not toast... I had issues 3 months ago, replaced it, and now its fine. I was talking from past experience... Not talking about a current issue. Sorry I gave you the wrong impression.

Legit question here what kind of shifting behaviors do you want to avoid to prevent tob failure? I'm new to stick and had to replace the stock tob at about 90k miles after I had been driving it for about 4k miles and don't want to have to do it again any time soon

Basically what mweiner said, but these are some specific bad habits:

1. Too many drivers sit through the entire duration of a red light with the trans in gear and the clutch pedal to the floor. That might save you one whole second compared to just leaving it in neutral until the light turns green, but it MURDERS the lifespan of the TOB. If there's one big no-no, this is it. The trans should be in neutral and the only pedal pressed should be the brake, until you are ready to go "right now." And who knows, that extra second it takes to put it in gear might one day keep you from getting T-boned by the dickhead who just ran the red light.

2. Don't hold the car on uphill grades by slipping the clutch. Same deal as #1 but also puts wear on your clutch in addition to the TOB.

3. Don't rest your foot on the clutch pedal. That's what the dead pedal is for. Your foot should only be on the pedal for that one second at a time (give or take) while you are actively shifting gears.

 

If you don't do any of the above, then probably at 90K your TOB just died of natural causes and not from any mechanocidal habits on your part. My TOB died quite suddenly about 1,000 miles after I bought the car. It had 97K on it. Maybe it was just its time, or maybe the PO's driving habits contributed to its demise, I can't say.

 

Subaru has not done us any favors either, since the stock clutch & DMFW setup at least on the 05-06 LGT has a really heavy pressure plate for a stock pseudo-luxury car. I forget where I saw the exact spec so I won't post an erroneous number here, but the stock piece has a higher clamping force than many aftermarket pressure plates that are considered "heavy duty" by their manufacturers. The heavier the pressure plate, the stiffer the clutch pedal (given a constant hydraulic system), the greater the load on your TOB and the shorter the TOB is likely to last. Lighter pressure plate and pedal feel were among the factors in my choosing a Clutchmasters instead of something else when I had to replace mine last month.

The whine is much louder at -50C! I had that last winter while I was in Alberta. I'm guessing the oil is thicker and it's not where it needs to be yet.

 

FWIW, I did not experience any issues from the whine, car ran great this summer. Just keep engine speed low until the car is warm.

Mine has been whining a little, it's been well below 0f some nights. Bit originally started with a 2 second belt squeal, now the alternator will whine for 10 seconds or so, it could be on the way out I guess.

Install the tsk3 clutch kit, noise gone. From what I have read on here.

Guys I need your help,

we've been getting some -20 celcius weather and when ever I start it for the first 5 seconds of the engine running it is as if there is a loud belt whining noize. The belts were changed this summer with gates belts.

 

Just wondering if there is anything to do to avoid the squealing noise or what could cause it.

 

Could be the TOB

Could be the PS belt or AC belt is too loose.

Could be a bad AC idler pulley

Could be a bad timing belt idler pulley

Could be that the starter shaft needs cleaning and lube.

Could be a squealing PS pump or alternator or water pump

I had the same problem. I recently had the belts replaced so I thought it strange to have the belts squealing at start up. I tightened the alternator belt, but when I attempted to tighten up the other belt, I accidentally broke off the bottom piece on the bracket and had to remove the entire stud. however, no more squeaking...