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Spark Plug Install Instructions


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Just finished swapping plugs - and MAN you're right - these are much harder to swap than WRX/STI plugs . . . Damn Fenders. . . .

 

Anyway - easiest way I found to get the DRIVERS REAR Coil IN/OUT was to have a friend pull the motor (ever so slightly) toward the passenger side of the car - - - Millimeters made all the difference in getting it out and in!!!!:cool:

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Also, found a good discount code for sparkplugs.com!

 

Use 15clublex for a discount of iridium plugs...it cuts the shipping in half! It makes the set cost $37 shipped.

 

I like saving money even if it is just a little.

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Just finished swapping plugs - and MAN you're right - these are much harder to swap than WRX/STI plugs . . . Damn Fenders. . . .

 

Anyway - easiest way I found to get the DRIVERS REAR Coil IN/OUT was to have a friend pull the motor (ever so slightly) toward the passenger side of the car - - - Millimeters made all the difference in getting it out and in!!!!:cool:

 

:nono: All you have to do it is to rotate the coilpack. It's even mentioned in vacation pix...

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You pull the engine. It's not a big deal but... the good news is the valve adjustment is not something you're gonna do anyway. The engine will likely blow up due to other reasons before you have to adjust the valve lash! :)
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Wow. That video worries me - mine DEFINITELY does not come out like that, there was about a 1-2mm clearance binding - - - and I'm CERTAIN that I flipped it and maneuvered it exactly like that.

 

I had to move my motor towards the passenger side with brute force in order to get the coil pack out . . .

 

what could cause my situation?? Weak motor mount?

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I changed out the orginal spark plugs last night. It took me 2 1/2 hours and a Dr.Pepper. Big change from my 10 mins change in my Integra. But hey now I dont have to do it again until another 25K. (I know they are noted to be changed at every 30K.)
**There are two types of people in the world, those who build horsepower and those who buy it. Which one are you?
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Wow. That video worries me - mine DEFINITELY does not come out like that, there was about a 1-2mm clearance binding - - - and I'm CERTAIN that I flipped it and maneuvered it exactly like that.

 

I had to move my motor towards the passenger side with brute force in order to get the coil pack out . . .

 

what could cause my situation?? Weak motor mount?

 

I just did mine last night. I did not have that problem. I wouldn't think motor mounts would cause that. When they good bad, (or break) its a "up and down" (or side to side depending on how you look at it) movement and only when the engine is running.

**There are two types of people in the world, those who build horsepower and those who buy it. Which one are you?
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  • 1 month later...

I'd like to add one step to this that makes the rear plugs easier.

 

There is some sound deadener insulation on both front frame rails. Take the forward most clip out and let the insulation hang down. It gives you another 3/16-1/4" of room between the frame rail and cylinder head to get your ratchet in there. When your done, just reinstall the clips (they are reusable). Every bit of room helps!

 

OP, maybe you can update you walk thru? Doing this saves me about 20 minutes total on the job.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Got the plugs changed out in 2 hrs flat! Thanks for the heads up on turning the coil 180 deg.... Would have made the whole thing FAR worse if I didn't know that! Old ones look great, no conductor erosion and only light white deposits. The step colder version seems to run great.

 

Getting better mileage and more power from the butt dyno...

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I don't know - I have done several spark plug changes on LGT's and the one I did today (on an Outback XT), was a (%*^$#($ and a half. There is absolutely no way that the rear coil packs were going to come out :mad: . I ended up taking off the engine mount bolts and the pitch stopper, jacking up the engine an inch or 2 and did the swap in about 10 minutes :)
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^ Now that might be worth a try, on my next go-around.....

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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Heat range” is the relative temperature of the spark plug’s core nose, and it is determined by the length and diameter of the insulator tip, as well as the ability of the plug to transfer heat into the cooling system. A “cold” plug transfers heat rapidly from its firing end into the cooling system and is used to avoid core nose heat saturation where combustion-chamber or cylinder-head temperatures are relatively high. A “hot” plug has a slower heat transfer rate and is used to avoid fouling under relatively low chamber or head temperatures. What’s confusing is that a “hotter” (higher performance level) engine requires a colder plug because more power equals higher cylinder temperatures.

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/spark_plugs_tips/index.html

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I am still up on the fence if I should go with 1 step colder plugs at Stage 2 power levels. Some say do it, others say it's not needed.

 

 

 

http://www.bobthesparkplugguy.com Send away for a spark plug analysis after a few thousand miles :lol:

 

Use stock heat range plugs.

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I don't know - I have done several spark plug changes on LGT's and the one I did today (on an Outback XT), was a (%*^$#($ and a half. There is absolutely no way that the rear coil packs were going to come out :mad: . I ended up taking off the engine mount bolts and the pitch stopper, jacking up the engine an inch or 2 and did the swap in about 10 minutes :)

 

They def do suk to do. Try moving the insulation like I mentioned earlier, makes for a bit more room.

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If only to argue with rao.........

 

A lot of tuning companies recommend 1 heat range colder.

 

I have been running 1 cooler in my car for the past 40k, and they have worked flawlessly, despite the fact that it has gotten to -38 here.

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If only to argue with rao.........

 

A lot of tuning companies recommend 1 heat range colder.

 

I have been running 1 cooler in my car for the past 40k, and they have worked flawlessly, despite the fact that it has gotten to -38 here.

 

Another data point: I have run 1 step colder (LFR 7AIX) for approx 25K now with stage 2 (gutted DP, TDC map) without any issues. Will go with 1 step colder again.

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I'm due to pull my plugs (ha, ha! :lol:) by the summer or thereabouts.

 

I've been running 1 step colder (LFR7AIX), for about 26K miles - typical "Stage II."

 

I'm curious to see how they look.

 

I'm typically a pretty sedate driver, so my fear was that I'd see fouling to the extent that I'd have troubles, despite my occasional romps. That has yet to happen (knock on wood).

 

Depending on what I find when I pull the plugs, I may go either way. :)

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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