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FRAME CAN'T TAKE TORQUE? Weld cracked? Frame brace?


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Hey folks, here's the story. Did a fair amount of high speed highway cat and mouse with other tuned cars. I'm thinking maybe some of the higher speed manouvers may have cracked one of the welds on the fire wall because when it rained (it's) been raining a lot here) I noticed water coming in on the passenger compartment - right where your hfeet would be. Looked around and could see nothing - I'm thinking one of the shields came loose or something. Noe. Took it to my mech and they blew out all the weep holes and hosed the car - nothing. Took it through car wash - water again. They took apart glove compartment, front wiper tray, etc, hosed it - nothing. So, when the mech sarts to drive it back to me, he sees the water again. He's thinking like I am that a seam cracked and the water gets through when the motion of the car moves the water. Where and why there's water, I don't know. Car will be dissassembled and sealed. However, my question(s) is: should I get one of those frame braces to keep this from happening again? Or sways and endlinks? Will the brace even fit with my FMIC? Also, one of the mechs is telling me my car isn't designed to handle all that power and can't handle like a sports car. He says my stock wheels are garbage and I need better wheels to be safe at high speeds. WTF? Thanks, I know it's a long read.
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Your water problem has nothing to do with the amount of torque you make, I promise you that.

 

You would be the first Subaru in history to have that problem.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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oh...and find a new mechanic

 

This.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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You have it all:

A street racing/kill story

Misinformation

Confusion

Exasperation

 

In real life land, your car's frame is strong enough to handle dangerous, high speed maneuvers on public roads with other ricers, sorry, tuners. I think you should buy every sway, brace, and bushing available though. You'll also want to invest in at least a set of STI BBS's. Those are rated for high speed maneuvering.

 

In regards to the leaky frame, you should probably drop the engine, trans, axles, all electronics. The interior should be removed as well. I've seen this before on less capable vehicles and it is definitely a real concern. When will these auto manufacturers learn to not use such brittle steel in their frames?

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Before stating that it's a frame crack (or really an Unibody crack) then you should find the leak - and usually when you get water on the floor it's the water drain from the ventilation system that has popped off.
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You guys suck...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Can't believe no one quote this for the record.

 

Hey folks, here's the story. Did a fair amount of high speed highway cat and mouse with other tuned cars. I'm thinking maybe some of the higher speed manouvers may have cracked one of the welds on the fire wall because when it rained (it's) been raining a lot here) I noticed water coming in on the passenger compartment - right where your hfeet would be. Looked around and could see nothing - I'm thinking one of the shields came loose or something. Noe. Took it to my mech and they blew out all the weep holes and hosed the car - nothing. Took it through car wash - water again. They took apart glove compartment, front wiper tray, etc, hosed it - nothing. So, when the mech sarts to drive it back to me, he sees the water again. He's thinking like I am that a seam cracked and the water gets through when the motion of the car moves the water. Where and why there's water, I don't know. Car will be dissassembled and sealed. However, my question(s) is: should I get one of those frame braces to keep this from happening again? Or sways and endlinks? Will the brace even fit with my FMIC? Also, one of the mechs is telling me my car isn't designed to handle all that power and can't handle like a sports car. He says my stock wheels are garbage and I need better wheels to be safe at high speeds. WTF? Thanks, I know it's a long read.
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Hey folks, here's the story. Did a fair amount of high speed highway cat and mouse with other tuned cars. I'm thinking maybe some of the higher speed manouvers may have cracked one of the welds on the fire wall because when it rained (it's) been raining a lot here) I noticed water coming in on the passenger compartment - right where your hfeet would be. Looked around and could see nothing - I'm thinking one of the shields came loose or something. Noe. Took it to my mech and they blew out all the weep holes and hosed the car - nothing. Took it through car wash - water again. They took apart glove compartment, front wiper tray, etc, hosed it - nothing. So, when the mech sarts to drive it back to me, he sees the water again. He's thinking like I am that a seam cracked and the water gets through when the motion of the car moves the water. Where and why there's water, I don't know. Car will be dissassembled and sealed. However, my question(s) is: should I get one of those frame braces to keep this from happening again? Or sways and endlinks? Will the brace even fit with my FMIC? Also, one of the mechs is telling me my car isn't designed to handle all that power and can't handle like a sports car. He says my stock wheels are garbage and I need better wheels to be safe at high speeds. WTF? Thanks, I know it's a long read.

 

I have heard of this happening before, the only sure way to find the leak is to drive the car into standing water no shallower than two to two and a half feet deep. The door seals will hold up to this just fine and you can.then try to isolate where water is entering.

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I have heard of this happening before, the only sure way to find the leak is to drive the car into standing water no shallower than two to two and a half feet deep. The door seals will hold up to this just fine and you can.then try to isolate where water is entering.

 

This is good advice, but if I am not mistaken the instructions per Subaru say that it needs to be salt water. Am I mistaken?

 

X

---
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This is good advice, but if I am not mistaken the instructions per Subaru say that it needs to be salt water. Am I mistaken?

 

X

 

Salt water for MT, distilled water for AT.

2006 SWP 3.0R 5EAT VDC BBQ

 

2008 OBP 2.5i 4EAT BBQ [RIP]

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Salt water for MT, distilled water for AT.

 

Good deal, this is what makes this site the best, the good flow of good information and the eagerness that members have to disburse it! :thumbsup:

 

 

X

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I would blow out the hose for the AC drain on the bottom of the firewall. So all that water can drain out of the vent system.

 

Or were we not supposed to tell this brainchild that simple tip for stopping water in the passenger foot well ?

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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While that might work, I am pretty sure that my method will be more effective. Also for those concerned about water type according to my mechanic any reasonably soap free water will do. Soapy water is not desirable as the strong base in a soap can damage the aluminum intercooler if the water sloshes onto it.

 

Perhaps the best method I have ever heard of is to use the same method with a mild solution of boric acid instead of water. This is expensive though, and not widely available outside of the factory.

 

No mater which way the OP goes, he should have all the welded seams of the unitbody magnafluxed (magnetic particle tested) to ensure their integrity. Simple visual inspection will not always reveal a bad weld.

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Hey folks, here's the story. Did a fair amount of high speed highway cat and mouse with other tuned cars. I'm thinking maybe some of the higher speed manouvers may have cracked one of the welds on the fire wall because when it rained (it's) been raining a lot here) I noticed water coming in on the passenger compartment - right where your hfeet would be. Looked around and could see nothing - I'm thinking one of the shields came loose or something. Noe. Took it to my mech and they blew out all the weep holes and hosed the car - nothing. Took it through car wash - water again. They took apart glove compartment, front wiper tray, etc, hosed it - nothing. So, when the mech sarts to drive it back to me, he sees the water again. He's thinking like I am that a seam cracked and the water gets through when the motion of the car moves the water. Where and why there's water, I don't know. Car will be dissassembled and sealed. However, my question(s) is: should I get one of those frame braces to keep this from happening again? Or sways and endlinks? Will the brace even fit with my FMIC? Also, one of the mechs is telling me my car isn't designed to handle all that power and can't handle like a sports car. He says my stock wheels are garbage and I need better wheels to be safe at high speeds. WTF? Thanks, I know it's a long read.

Not that it will make a difference but the brace you speak of sounds to me like a strut tower bar. The body braces are mounted underneath the car. These will firm up the flexing of the unibody structure a bit. Strut tower bars are basically useless for our cars.

____Spending funds in mass quantities! I keep telling myself it's just a hobby?
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Wow! Thanks guys. The level of expertise here just amazes me.

 

I'm sorry, but what did you think the response would be?

 

No matter what, you don't make the most power a Subaru has ever seen. If frame strength would have been an issue, don't you think someone else would have found that out in the 6 years the LegacyGT has been in production?

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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