MissJapaneseSubaru Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 I have a 95 legacy l wagon that I purchased a couple months ago. The problem is now the check engine light is on. I went and got the code printed out and its the knock sensor. I purchased one and I tried to take the bolt off and its completely torqued down way to much. Its supposed to be like 12 ft/lbs. So I took it to a shop he couldn't take it off and plus he was in a rush, he told me he didn't want to snap the bolt and I be stuck there. I brought it by another and he said "its something I wouldn't even get involved with". So now what do I do? Thanks guys I'm really eating through gas with this thing going bad and the noise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 Find another level surface to screw the sensor in to...at the correct torque, closest to the engine block Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MissJapaneseSubaru Posted March 15, 2012 Author Share Posted March 15, 2012 Wow I was wondering if I could do that. I just would need to buy another bolt. Bolt length? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 kinda long Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MissJapaneseSubaru Posted March 15, 2012 Author Share Posted March 15, 2012 One guy at the shop was saying it even could be that it rusted inside but I don't think so because the bolt looks good. Just that problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 spray it down wit pblaster penetrating oil for several days. you have nothing to lose by ''trying'' to remove it. it should come out. lots of bolts are harder to remove, takes more ft. lbs. than the torque spec. maybe, the last guy put lock tite on it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MissJapaneseSubaru Posted March 15, 2012 Author Share Posted March 15, 2012 Maybe, but I sprayed it and sprayed it. Its starting to round. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesDewe Posted March 17, 2012 Share Posted March 17, 2012 I agree with soaking it with penetrating oil over several days. If does indeed "penetrate" and hopefully will help you break that loose. Knowing where the knock sensor is located, I would also put a 3/8 extension on it, with no socket, and tap the bolt head. Probably need one about a foot long though. It might help break something loose down in the threads. Don't hammer on like you're angry, just some spirited taps. What's the worst that can happen? You gonna break it more? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MissJapaneseSubaru Posted March 17, 2012 Author Share Posted March 17, 2012 If worst comes to worst and that doesn't work. What do u think about the relocating the new knock sensor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted March 17, 2012 Share Posted March 17, 2012 and a 6 point socket will help, not a 12 pt.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted March 17, 2012 Share Posted March 17, 2012 I agree with everyone about soaking the bolt with PB blaster over the course of a few days. PB blaster is pretty awesome stuff. If you end up rounding the bolt head so much that you ruin it it's not the end of the world although it may be frustrating. But that is not a hard thing to fix. If you round the bolt head, or break the bolt it is an easy fix. If you round the bolt head you will need to get a metal cutting drill bit and drill off the bolt head. Then you can remove the knock sensor. If you break the bolt head, you will be able to remove the knock sensor as well. There are cheap screw extraction kits that you can try next to remove the bolt. If that doesn't work, then you just buy a thread repair kit. It will tell you the correct size drill bit that you will also need to purchase. Then you drill out the old bolt hole, use the thread tapper that is included in the kit, take one of the thread inserts that is included in the kit, and install it according to the directions. The repair threads are gauranteed to be as strong if not stronger than the old threads. Then you can reinstall your new knock sensor! BTW, to get good access to the bolt you may need to remove your intake manifold or have a long drill bit. A good quality thread repair kit will cost about $30 bucks and are easily found at most local auto parts stores. Find out exactly what bolt holds in the knock sensor, thread pitch, etc, and buy the thread kit that corresponds to that size. Let me know if you are unable to figure what kind of bolt holds the knock sensor down. This is a much better solution than drilling a new hole somewhere else in your block. The knock sensor works by turning sounds from your block into an electrical signal that is relayed to your ecu. I would be weary about relocating the sensor as this may affect the frequency of the signal, but I may be wrong. Order a new knock sensor from ebay for $15 instead of the $50 or so that the auto parts store will charge. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MissJapaneseSubaru Posted March 17, 2012 Author Share Posted March 17, 2012 Thanks I will do that once I get off of work. And yea I bought it from rockauto weeks ago. So thanks everyone and I will give it a shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted March 17, 2012 Share Posted March 17, 2012 Try tightening the bolt before loosening it. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdp2n Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 The other day I had problems with stubborn flex plate bolts. Someone had posted the solution to that problem on this site -- Sear's Bolt-Out "Damaged Bolt/Nut Remover Set". I went to Sears and they have them in all sizes. You tap them on the head and as you torque to release the bolt the bolt-out grips the head of the bolt. Worked really very well. Something like this might be your best bet. Keep applying the PB Blaster, too. Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 FWIW, my knock sensor bolt was hard to get out. Also, always use 6-point sockets on hex head bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 The other day I had problems with stubborn flex plate bolts. Someone had posted the solution to that problem on this site -- Sear's Bolt-Out "Damaged Bolt/Nut Remover Set". I went to Sears and they have them in all sizes. You tap them on the head and as you torque to release the bolt the bolt-out grips the head of the bolt. Worked really very well. Something like this might be your best bet. Keep applying the PB Blaster, too. Rob ^+1 Irwin also makes the set. I took out a bolt torqued to @ 100 ft-lbs with this unit. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricky santana Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t140121-knock-sensor-relocation.html You can always do this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 ^Read the thread and am not convinced. To do the mod you still need to remove the knock sensor bolt. Moving the sensor to another location will most likely alter the frequency it receives. As far as making the sensor last longer, that sounds like BS. Just don't over torque the bolt and you should be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecBamf41 Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 the sensor is bad right? and the bolt is toasted? grind it off. take sensor off. grind flat spots into the bolt sticking out of the block. vice grip and done. granted you may have to remove the intake manifold. BNR18g on 93oct Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 the sensor is bad right? and the bolt is toasted? grind it off. take sensor off. grind flat spots into the bolt sticking out of the block. vice grip and done. granted you may have to remove the intake manifold. I'd do that. Cut the bolt head off, kroil the shank and extract it. I'd probably try an EZ-Out before grinding flats, though. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MissJapaneseSubaru Posted March 19, 2012 Author Share Posted March 19, 2012 I plan on trying the sears method first while I have been soaking this bolt for a couple days now. So ill see how that goes and then ill move on to the next. I'm trying to get it done before gas is $5 lol because the fuel mileage right now is killing me >.< Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 Order Aero Kroil from Amazon. It makes PB look like WD40. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilverGSX Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 Do you have access to an impact gun? With PB for a bit I don't see why a good impact gun wouldn't take that off in 3 seconds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MissJapaneseSubaru Posted March 19, 2012 Author Share Posted March 19, 2012 No that's why I was trying to go to shops to see if they would atleast do that and just take the bolt off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesDewe Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 I would fear snapping the bolt with an impact, but it would definitely get the damn thing out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.