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HID questions


gr8ness97

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So, one of my front bulbs finally burned out. I'm considering converting to HIDs. :confused: I've been doing some research on the topic, but I need to confirm three things from those who have switched to HIDs:

 

 

1. How painful/time-consuming is installing HIDs?

2. What should I look out for when looking at kits?

3. What has been the best kit puchased by LGT owners?

 

Trying to get better at DIY things as I go along in life :p

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1. How painful/time-consuming is installing HIDs?

 

Pretty simple, it may take an hour if your not good with these sorts of things, but generally it's an easy mod.

 

2. What should I look out for when looking at kits?

 

Make sure you get a bulb color between 4300K-5000K. If you desire looks over function, then you can get 6000K. The higher you go, the less useable light you will get.

 

3. What has been the best kit puchased by LGT owners?

 

Most people stick to DDM/XenonDepot HIDs. DDM HIDs can run you about $35 while Xenon Depots can run you from $95-$175.

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I'm running a set of DDM Tuning 35w 4300k HID's purchased used from this forum.

 

Been in since February 2011. Used for 6 months prior from previous owner.

 

You will have to drill holes into your current dust caps. Easy.

 

Wiring is pretty painless. I spent more time figuring out where I wanted the ballasts. lol

 

Theres also guides all over that explain the process.

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I'd do this again in a second: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2010-legacy-3-6r-trs-hid-retrofit-169398.html

 

As a matter of fact, I'm planning another install in a 2011 Outback shortly. It comes with a $300 price tag, but quality was outstanding and after looking at the stock projectors and the TRS projectors, it's a no brainer.

 

I did go 5K, kindof wish I went 4300, but it's more because I would like all the lights to match in whiteness (I do like white better than the yellowish tint on most bulbs), but not enough to make any changes to mine.

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Would you guys recommend getting the 35w or 55w? I'm basically using it for city driving but I would like the headlights to be useable too on roads without any type of streetlamps or anything.

 

35w will be good enough. If you decide to go with 55w, I would recommend getting harness so it can protect your wires.

 

If you haven't decide which color temperature to go with, I would say 5000k or 6000k would look best. 4300k is stock HID color, so it will have hint of halogen color. I have 4300k, 5000k, 6000k, and 8000k. I prefer 6000k most, white with a hint of blue.

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Maybe a bit off topic...

I already have stock HID's in the low beams, and would like to add a HID Kit on the high beams.

They should match HID stock colour (4300 or better 5000 ?) and be sort of "plug&play" so no bigger lens/body etc.

What would You suggest as best buy ?

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HID's in the high beams aren't really a good idea. You lose the ability to "flash-to-pass", which is a bad thing. Especially in a country where driving by the book is taken so seriously.
[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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HID's in the high beams aren't really a good idea. You lose the ability to "flash-to-pass", which is a bad thing. Especially in a country where driving by the book is taken so seriously.

 

 

=> sorry, "flash-to-pass" means You shortly light up the high beams, correct ? Signal for overtaking, etc.

(Well, here they do it for many reasons..so far for driving "by the book" :lol:)

 

Why is that, does this shorten the lamp's lifecycle ? The high beams will never stay continuously on as the low's, so a bit of ON-OFF-ON would be part of the normal use anyay...does that affect, too ?

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That's what Flash-to-pass is, you are right. It's called that, but it's really any time you flash the lights to alert someone or get their attention, it isn't just used for overtaking.

 

HID's don't come to full-brightness right away, they require a warm-up time.

 

It's also not healthy for the ballasts to be fed power, then cut, then re-fed power. That's called hot-striking, and it can damage the ballasts. Some ballasts have protection against this, but for the most part it isn't good practice.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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So, one of my front bulbs finally burned out. I'm considering converting to HIDs. :confused: I've been doing some research on the topic, but I need to confirm three things from those who have switched to HIDs:

 

 

1. How painful/time-consuming is installing HIDs?

2. What should I look out for when looking at kits?

3. What has been the best kit puchased by LGT owners?

 

Trying to get better at DIY things as I go along in life :p

 

1. easy, need to drill the headlight low beam bulb end cover cap.

 

2. life-time warranty from a legit seller (prefer DDMtuning for cheap, lightwerkz for the real shi*)

 

3. I purchased 4 kits total, 3 DDM, 1 Subimods.. all good

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HID's don't come to full-brightness right away, they require a warm-up time.

 

It's also not healthy for the ballasts to be fed power, then cut, then re-fed power. That's called hot-striking, and it can damage the ballasts. Some ballasts have protection against this, but for the most part it isn't good practice.

 

OK, flashing ruins both lamps and ballasts...

But if the ON phase is normally, let's say, ≥ 20-30 sec., is that enough in Your opinion in order to avoid stress damage in the long run ? OR, how long should an ON interval at least be in order to be on the "safe side" ?

Probably a difficult question, I know, but just to have a better idea.

 

I am not very satisfied with the stock high beams (they light up the sky, but not far ahead as in previous cars I owned), so I am checking which alternative solution would be best suitable.

HID's as High Beams is one, or maybe converting the stock Low Beams to a BiXenon version, in order to have a "double" High Beam lamp.

The latter is a mere personal idea, I don't even know if such a solution exists...

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Build a heavy duty harness, and run slightly over watt bulbs. Remember that the reflectors are designed for the output of a halogen bulb.

 

I'd say about a minute is a better minimum time for them to be on or off between changes. That'd maximize the life of both components.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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Build a heavy duty harness, and run slightly over watt bulbs. Remember that the reflectors are designed for the output of a halogen bulb.

 

OK, the stock High Beam halogen lamps are HB3/ 9005 rated at 12V/ 60 W. So if I put in a 35W Canbus-version - something like this (just to get the idea):

 

http://shop.lightwerkz.net/product_info.php?cPath=10&products_id=37

 

and then use it for intervals ≥ 1 min, I should be able to achieve a sufficient/ normal life cycle...did I get You right ?

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Not exactly. Your reflector is still designed for a halogen bulb. The output of an HID bulb is a completely different shape. The kit will plug in and work, but it won't be optimized. You might find yourself $150 poorer, and in no better situation.
[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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BAC 5.2: OK, valid + logical technical argumentation, I won't do it.

Plus, it would also have been illegal here...

 

SCSpecB: That's what I did, but not with a PIAA product. If You could tell me the model that satisfied You, I would install it first-hand ! E.G. Extreme White Plus which in 9005 is rated at 60w = 120w, 4000K ?

I only suppose that these types with coloured lamp glass will always create a light blue shade in the reflector while they're switched off.

That's why initially I tended more towards the HID solution (a part the obvious = higher light intensity).

 

=> and thank You very much for Your help so far !

 

P.S.: how about HID+lens (projectors) => http://shop.lightwerkz.net/index.php?cPath=3 ?

They would give correct light aiming, wouldn't they? And I suppose there would also be no temperature issues as I already have HID Low Beams.

 

I know I probably repeat some questions already posed by others back in time, I've been reading through various threads already.

I just want to come down to a better alternative than the one I have now: http://www.speedup.it/index.php?fuseaction=home.1104968

Either HID-type, or halogen bulb, both are ok for me.

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TheRetrofitSource makes a Bi-Xenon projector that I just put in my 2010 Legacy here in the states. Gives you HID low beam and drops the cut off when you put on your high beams for more HID output and your existing high beam to fill the sky.

 

Makes me very happy face at night....

 

The retrofit does involve taking apart the headlight housing, but well worth it. As mention, the stock projectors really are crap compared to some of the others. Besides, they are not designed for HIDs. There's a thread around with before and after pics along with pics of the projectors showing how poor the stock ones are in relation...

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2010-legacy-3-6r-trs-hid-retrofit-169398.html

 

Check it out...

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Check it out...

 

I did, so what You did was going from stock halogen bulb+lens to HID Bixenon projector (bulb+lens), correct ?

 

My Legacy has stock HID, so one of the alternatives would have been to go Bixenon, in order to have a double light as High Beam (from the opened Bixenon HID + the bulb from the inner High Beam).

 

As far as I understand I could switch from the stock HID unit to the Morimoto Bixenon unit, letting the High Beam bulb as-is or replacing it with a let's say PIAA Extreme White Plus.. ?

 

As far as that I would also avoid the ON-OFF problem BAC5.2 pointed out because the HID would always be ON, and the High Beams stay halogen-type (like stock).

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Yep, that would be perfectly fine.
[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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Yep... Swapping the projectors is not trivial, but will be necessary. There is a solenoid on the mini Morimoto that provides the Bi-Xenon functionality. You may need new bulbs too, the kit is got was H1 bulbs, but you probably don't need ballasts or even a wiring harness, although I'm not sure. I didn't think Legacy's had a HID option anywhere. You might need to get TRS some pics so that they can determine what you need. They have been super helpful, ihighly recommend them to anyone looking to do lighting mods.
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