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"Bullet Proof" TMIC Kits


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It's probably too late, no one has tested vice gripping the clamps back on and then bullet proofing it though, no guarantees would apply if you take that road. I have the same thing going on in mine at the moment, not sure what I'm going to do yet. I'll probably buy a used OEM then bp it

 

X2

 

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It's probably too late, no one has tested vice gripping the clamps back on and then bullet proofing it though, no guarantees would apply if you take that road. I have the same thing going on in mine at the moment, not sure what I'm going to do yet. I'll probably buy a used OEM then bp it

 

Spot on, thanks.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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It's probably too late, no one has tested vice gripping the clamps back on and then bullet proofing it though, no guarantees would apply if you take that road. I have the same thing going on in mine at the moment, not sure what I'm going to do yet. I'll probably buy a used OEM then bp it

 

I've posted this more than once in response to the same situation...

 

Unless your intercooler has actually FAILED, that is, rendered your car inoperable, you can use vice grips to pinch the seams back together and then install the BP Mod when you have it perfect again.

 

When the OEM TMIC actually fails it blows out the rubber O-ring that is in the seam. THEN it is fubared. But if it is only seeping some oil, or is showing visible stretching of the clamps and is obviously spreading apart, you can save it. THAT IS THE CONDITION that my new 11 WRX was in when I parked it until I found a solution... the BulletProof TMIC Mod is the result.

 

Clear?

 

It probably suits everyone to mod a pristine TMIC. I doubt many can source a used one in perfect condition, but if you can, fine. But to eliminate all the intercoolers that show signs of leakage from oil seepage, or that have spreading tabs, would eliminate a lot of people unnecessarily. One thing for sure, any signs your TMIC is leaking or about to leak is a warning you better heed.

 

If you intelligently put your seam tabs back tight, and install a BP Mod properly, your intercooler is NOT EVER going to fail whether the intercooler starts out brand new or restored. Period. In fact, from the beginning, a significant number of people who were among the first to BP Mod their cars did so on itercoolers with just this condition. There are individual threads on it.

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I've posted this more than once in response to the same situation...

 

Unless your intercooler has actually FAILED, that is, rendered your car inoperable, you can use vice grips to pinch the seams back together and then install the BP Mod when you have it perfect again.

 

When the OEM TMIC actually fails it blows out the rubber O-ring that is in the seam. THEN it is fubared. But if it is only seeping some oil, or is showing visible stretching of the clamps and is obviously spreading apart, you can save it. THAT IS THE CONDITION that my new 11 WRX was in when I parked it until I found a solution... the BulletProof TMIC Mod is the result.

 

Clear?

 

It probably suits everyone to mod a pristine TMIC. I doubt many can source a used one in perfect condition, but if you can, fine. But to eliminate all the intercoolers that show signs of leakage from oil seepage, or that have spreading tabs, would eliminate a lot of people unnecessarily. One thing for sure, any signs your TMIC is leaking or about to leak is a warning you better heed.

 

If you intelligently put your seam tabs back tight, and install a BP Mod properly, your intercooler is NOT EVER going to fail whether the intercooler starts out brand new or restored. Period. In fact, from the beginning, a significant number of people who were among the first to BP Mod their cars did so on itercoolers with just this condition. There are individual threads on it.

 

Thanks for clearing that up, Jeff.

 

Order with confidence. Bucko and Dobbs, if you two want to give it a shot just to be the vocal / visual proof in this thread of exactly what type of intercooler can be R&R'ed and improved using this type of kit then go ahead and order. If it doesn't work out for you for any reason just get in touch with me.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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I can confirm that I also had oil residue in the usual spot on the TMIC, wiped it up, installed the BP rails, reinstalled, and I have not had any oil residue since. I would say the BP mod corrected the issue and obviously prevented it from getting worse.
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The usps package you ship in, is it a box or envelope and approx dimensions?

 

My order showed to have been delivered, but I was not home for it. I had a friend staying at my house and she must have received it. But I have no idea where she put it. So a description would help bunches. Haha she was overwhelmed with all the packages coming in. Perrin header, brake parts, up/downpipe, bushings, and other goodies.

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Might be a dumb question, but how does this compare to an avo or perrin n terms of cooling capacity? Thanks

 

This just reinforces the stock intercooler. For 90 bucks you get the same reliability of an avo or perrin or process west intercooler without paying out the ass.

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Might be a dumb question, but how does this compare to an avo or perrin n terms of cooling capacity? Thanks

 

This type of question gets asked A LOT. I don't have access to specific test that show the cooling capacity of either the stock unit or aftermarket units.

 

It's generally regarded that the stock TMIC will not suffer from heatsoak due to the plastic endtanks. I believe the design of the process west also offers good resistance to heatsoak. The perrin / avo units both have heavy metal end tanks making them more prone to heatsoak issues.

 

As far as cooling capacity goes, it's most likely that stock < avo/perrin < process west. The real question is whether any of that matters. If the intercooler is the weak point in your setup then it might make some sense to upgrade to an aftermarket unit. If it's not, or if you expect the gains to be minimal and you are after reliability more than anything, then bullet-proofing your stock TMIC makes the most sense unless you are after engine bling.

 

I'd imagine that for most stage 2 and even mild stage 3 setups the TMIC is not a huge limiting factor and going to avo / perrin won't net you that much in terms of power gains. I could be wrong, I just haven't seen the back-to-back comparison.

 

Like bucko said, the kit offers the ability to make the stock TMIC as reliable as other aftermarket options for a fraction of the price.

Edited by BarManBean

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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It's generally regarded that the stock TMIC will suffer from heatsoak due to the plastic endtanks.

 

This is inaccurate. The stock TMIC is the best possible TMIC design from a heat-soak perspective, precisely due to the plastic end-tanks. Plastic is an insulator, meaning that heat cannot travel outwards from the charge air through the end-tanks (which is not an issue, because the hood scoop does not cool those areas), but it can't travel in from the engine bay either. Because heatsoak is due to heat from the engine bay, this is a good thing. There may be some minor heatsoak in the metal heat exchanger portion of the TMIC, but that would go away as soon as you started moving again.

 

As I understand it, the main issue with the stock TMIC is that airflow through the unit is not as good as on aftermarket models. So there is a pressure drop (somewhere between that of an aftermarket TMIC and an FMIC) from the turbo to the intake manifold. This should not be an issue for Stage 2 or (most likely) mild Stage 3 setups, though.

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Well, I'm not deleting my post, because it has a good description of why the stock TMIC is so much less prone to heatsoak. :p

 

Really, from a heatsoak perspective, I'd rather have a stock TMIC than a PW. It's just that the PW isn't THAT much worse, and cooling capacity otherwise and airflow are much better.

 

Having had an FMIC, a PW, and a (newly) BP'ed TMIC, though, I'd definitely choose the latter unless I lived in Arizona or was trying to make really big power.

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Well then.

 

It's not that the PW isn't a great piece, it's just that, heat-soak-wise and cost-wise, the BP TMIC is so much better, and it's not worse enough from a performance standpoint to justify spending $900 extra.

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Im currently on tp stage 3 map which is basically a stage 2+ ebcs .. Pushing 20 psi..i ordered this kit and should be getting it soon. You guys think it should be enough for what i have ?

I have an avo tmic thats always been giving me problems, so i thought ill try this out.

 

 

 

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2

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Im currently on tp stage 3 map which is basically a stage 2+ ebcs .. Pushing 20 psi..i ordered this kit and should be getting it soon. You guys think it should be enough for what i have ?

I have an avo tmic thats always been giving me problems, so i thought ill try this out.

 

 

 

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2

 

You already have my answer, but yes--I think that a properly bullet-proofed stock TMIC will fit your needs just fine.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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Im currently on tp stage 3 map which is basically a stage 2+ ebcs .. Pushing 20 psi..i ordered this kit and should be getting it soon. You guys think it should be enough for what i have ?

I have an avo tmic thats always been giving me problems, so i thought ill try this out.

 

 

 

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2

 

What kind of problems is your avo giving you??

 

N thanks for all the info..what does PW stand for? Sorry, new to subis. :-)

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What kind of problems is your avo giving you??

 

N thanks for all the info..what does PW stand for? Sorry, new to subis. :-)

 

I have an 11 wrx so the banjo bolt hits it.. And then using an adapter cracked the flange and i got it fixed professionally but cant use it without an adaptor. Just fitting issues which i understand because avo was originally designed for the lgt and not wrx

 

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In reference to the internal pressure drops of intercoolers...

 

IF the physical sizes of the intercoolers being compared are fairly close, the one with the lower pressure drop will be an inferior heat exchanger. That is, it will not cool the charge air as well as the one with more internal "loss." That is because, compared to the input pressure the output pressure drops because the output air is cooler, thus has less pressure.. The only way to get equal or better cooling AND less pressure drop is by making a good intercooler BIGGER in size.

 

Both the Perrin and AVO intercoolers, and any others that mimic them, are inferior heat exchangers than the BP Modded TMIC because of this fact of physics. Those aftermarket examples' fitment and heatsoak issues only add insult to injury.

 

That is why the BP Modded OEM "plastic" TMIC defies conventional logic. It is an excellent heat exchanger, it suffers far less from heatsoak than any other one, and the "pressure drop" is more an indication of its efficiency than any perceived restriction in power. It is also why those currently using it on the track with upgraded turbos and tunes are doing so well. Bench racers, not so much. ;)

Edited by SeeeeeYa
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