Matt166 Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 Hi All, Pulled the turbo from my 05 LGT wagon 5mt. This turbo was put in before I bought the car and apparently it was a frankenturbo - 2 halfs of a vf40. Not being able to find out if it was balanced properly I made the decision to rip it out - sending it to BNR for a rebuild tomorrow. My question is, my TOB has been squealing a little when the car hasnt been driven for a few days, would now be a good time to part the tranny and replace the clutch? I have a good view of the tranny and bolts. Is this beyond my mechanical knowhow? I worked in a race school workshop back in England for a while under a qualified mechanic, and do mainly my own work on WB's, oil changes, brakes etc. I have never done any serious engine internals myself or a clutch. What do you think. If anyones interested the turbo I pulled had a little side to side and in and out movement, if I pushed the rotor to one side the blades scraped the housing a tiny bit - you think it would have made it much longer?? I had a tear in my turbo air intake, so will replace that. Do i need to replace the gaskets on dp and mid section? Does the top oil feed need 2 copper washers? - mine only had the one. It also didnt have a crush ring on the oil plug when i changed the oil last week which pissed me off a little. Apologies for the essay. Massive thanks to this site for saving me lots of cash on preventative maintenance, used the leptronix walkthrough, and also the wheel bearing walkthrough last week, awesome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated Too sigmafour Posted September 12, 2012 I Donated Too Share Posted September 12, 2012 Welcome to the site. I have a feeling you are more than capable of doing a clutch and replacing the TOB as long as you can do so safely. If you aren't afraid to pull the Turbo the clutch will be a breeze and fairly straight forward to do. Pull the gearbox and check it all out, maybe look into getting a TSK3 as well. If you're getting a rebuilt turbo from BNR, for the warranty you may need to replace the oil lines and get an FP filter, BNR will advise and a better oil line for the Turbo is not a bad thing. It will come with all new fittings, banjo bolts and copper washers. Turbo sounded like it didn't have long for this world. I'd look at getting a fumoto valve for the oil changes, much easier and cleaner and quicker! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated Too sigmafour Posted September 12, 2012 I Donated Too Share Posted September 12, 2012 Since you're new and interested in these things, you might like to check out some vacation pictures. http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/ - other Subaru owners have really enjoyed them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
InnocentGuns Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 No the turbo would not have lasted if pushed at all any bearing play resulting in rubbing would have gotten much worse. and if you take your time and research everything you can the tob and clutch should be a painless job. good luck and welcome Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1055 Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 Its easier to pull the motor to do a clutch than the tranny, imo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 IMO both are a PITA. The tranny weights about 120lbs. OP you'll want to get a single mass FW if the car already doesn't have one. There are clutch threads in the tranny forum here. I seem to be one of the few that have good luck with Spec clutches. My Spec 2 clutch is great. You may need a torx plus tp50 bit if you still have the oem DMFW. Oh also look into bolts to replace the studs in the up pipe. It makes lining up the turbo with the inlet and oil return hose MUCH easier. Use the same bolts that hold the up pipe bracket to the engine. picutres here, http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/got-some-new-stuff-engine-r-r-184106.html Welcome to the forum 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1055 Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 Even with a lift, i still like pulling the engine. The whole job can be done on the ground. And not on your back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt166 Posted September 13, 2012 Author Share Posted September 13, 2012 Many thanks for the advice guys, will look at the job this weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 Even with a lift, i still like pulling the engine. The whole job can be done on the ground. And not on your back Hmmmm, now you have me thinking... Yes I did my clutch with the engine on the tailgate of the F-150. When I replaced the short block. It did take me a few try's to get the engine lined up with the input shaft, till I figured to jack up the back of the car to adjust the angle. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbw Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 Its not bad putting the engine back in as long as you have the car on jackstands(usually the lowest setting) and jack up the tranny while trying to get the input shaft onto the clutch correctly. You can normally help this by putting a ratchet on the crank pulley bolt with a breaker bar and going from side to side. I always put a LITTLE lubricant on the splines to assist as well. I can get it in easily and by myself this way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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